Question on gaining more droop?
 

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...cf43fb4be3.jpgIm using setting 3B with the stiffest spring available and no more available length on shock shaft. Will moving to 3A make the suspension softer? I know mounting more inboard on arm creates a softer effect but the shock being more vertical is supposed to create a more stiff effect.

Would moving to 2A give me more droop and keep the suspension at the same stiffness its currently at (3B)?

If you like the current stiffness and only need more droop, why not unscrew the shock eyelet some, or use a longer one?

Ok Ill look into a longer one. I did not know one was offered. Eyelet unscrewed 2 turns, using long eyelet currently
EDIT ; dont see a longer shaft offered

I think 3A is where I need to go. Even though I am moving the lower shock mount inboard I am standing the shock more vertical. I think it will help with a little more droop while staying close to what I have now.

If your regular track conditions absolutely require more droop, you may want to contact a carbon fiber company like Bezerk RC or PSM and have them design a lower shock tower for your SC6.1, if that's what the above pictures show us. If it is a SC5M, I am not sure if a CF rear shock tower is a viable option as it's been a while since I last worked on a 5 generation vehicle.

The change in effective spring rate will be fairly subtle. You probably won't notice any difference.

Why do you need more droop? Excess droop can lead to handling problems.

+1 for unscrewing the eyelet on the shock shaft to get more droop, however many team drivers recommend to back space any exposed threads with rubber o-rings so you don't get excessive internal plunge inside the shock tube which could potentially damage your piston if it comes in contact with the shock cap and/or effect blow out past what the piston was designed.

the track im on is set up for 8th scale 4wd electric and nitro. So the track gets heavily rutted and blown out. I am running a 10th scale 2wd short course. I like to run drop close to the same front and back but to get there i am currently at front , no internal spacers, unscrewed eyelet two full turns. At back i am 6 internal spacers, .030 each to be somewhere close with droop front and back. I have a corner i loose contact with dirt and get thrown off, maybe just need to learn to maneuver corner better. I also get squirrelly after a couple landings.

thanks for the help. Yes , i need to do this. I noticed the excess uptravel in piston but didnt realize the simple fix.

Another option is experimenting with a dual rate pistons? It is possible that you have enough droop, but rebound might be slow. If this is true, then adding more droop will not fix anything.

that does make since. ill have to research that. Are you talking something like vrp offers?

It sounds to me like you have too many rear limiters. 6 is a lot for the rear on I'm guessing an SC6.1/SC5M? IMO, you generally want more droop in the rear, especially on a blown out track.

Exotek and Vision B6 to T6 conversion front shock towers are shorter than the T/SC6.1 front towers. So if you are wanting the front tires to fall further down below the chassis, try one of those front towers.

Yeah, the VRP seems to be a good option. I have used Fioroni pistons, but they are for 1/8 scale. I'm not sure if they make a piston that would fit your vehicle.

The dual rate pistons I have used have the side effect of "up jacking", which is the chassis lifting as the shocks cycle...they work like a jack, because there is more resistance in compression than in rebound.

I mitigated this jacking effect by installing small springs inside the shock. They are like the springs from a ball point pen, and they go around the shock shaft on the inside of the shock. And since you are running 1/10, springs from a pen might be about right. I talked about in this thread: https://www.rctech.net/forum/electri...sion-dyno.html

Unfortunately I don't actually know if all the work paid off...my cars should run awesome now, but there isn't anywhere for me to race anymore. There used to be tracks relatively close, but they both closed down.


Davidka suggested stiffer shock oil...that is a different philosophy on suspension. I admit I have seen cars with extremely stiff suspension win races. The one that comes to mind was a 4x4 SCT, and the suspension felt like it had diff oil in the shocks. The suspension barely moved! But on that day and on that track, it worked. I am interested in making RC suspension work like it does on full size vehicles, but people get good results from a variety of tuning philosophies. There is no harm thinking outside the box.