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Traxxas Rustler thread?

Traxxas Rustler thread?

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Old 06-14-2018, 08:29 PM
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Thumbs up Traxxas Rustler thread?

I have not seen one so I thought I would start one myself. I just inherited a modified Rustler and would like to hear from others that have owned one to find out more about them so please post your experiences. My car started out as a brushed model but has been upgraded to brushless and using s2 5800mah Lipos. It seems to run very well. I got a great deal on it (free) all I had to do was buy batteries for it. Not bad! I am curious to know what setups others are using. What are the strengths and weaknesses. What can I expect to have to upgrade first to make it a solid basher?
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:44 AM
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I have one. Modified to hell and back for years to do different things. Went from a stock Rustler with a brushed motor(20T stinger FTW) to a 4s speed run truck to a modified stadium truck. Not really competitive with the mid motor trucks but still fun to wheel around.

Right now its as follows:
Xtreme RC G10 chassis
ANZA front and rear carbon shock towers
STRC 1* rear hubs
STRC top shaft w/ AE V2 slipper
STRC shock caps
TRX TiNi Shafts
Losi 2" orange front springs paired w/ 35w oil
TRX Tmaxx red springs paired w/ 37.5w oil
RPM front offset compensating arms
RPM rear arms
ANZA gun drilled front axles
Hot Racing sealed diff w/ 5000w fluid
AE T5M wheels w/ bar codes or T5M wheels with pressure points
Castle 5700kv motor
Castle Sidewinder V3 w/ 20% punch control, low start power, 40% brake strength
Savox 1257 w/ Tekno aluminum servo horn
Duratrax 2x5 bearings for steering rack
I run a shorty 2s lipo, 5000mah, 60c in the forward position
added 2 oz of weight to the front bumper
Flysky GT3b tx/rx
stock clear body painted red

The truck is just too old to be competitive but if quite consistent and durable if you can keep it off the pipes. The mid motor trucks are just so much faster in the corners that the only way to keep up is to overpower the truck on the straights.

To make it a solid basher i would look into the shock caps. The stock plastic ones are prone to coming apart. Grab some fluid to tune the shocks to your liking. I went with different sprigns up front but IIRC i ran 30 weight oil front and 35w oil rear when i had the stock springs. A second big upgrade for me was the sealed diff. Once you get the diff action to slow down the truck responds better to every input. No more unloading one wheel into a pizza cutter either at WOT.
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:52 AM
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Is the brushless system the Velineon combo from Traxxas? Just curious. When I had mine, I pretty quickly upgraded all of the front and rear bearing carriers, castor blocks and A-arms to RPM replacements, all of which can be found here: Rustler | RPM R/C Products. Depending on how you drive, the shock towers might also be prone to breaking, but if you're only running on 2s LiPos then you could be fine. In general, the Rustler is a very back-heavy car, so for better handling try to avoid extra parts that extend out the back (i.e. a wheelie bar, motor protector, etc.) and maybe consider some aluminum parts near the front, like a front bulkhead or shock tower. Rustlers are also prone to driveshaft twist and breakage so I would avoid slapping on any bigger or heavier tires and wheels than it comes with stock. You can get a variety of MIP or Tekno driveshaft upgrade kits, but they're expensive and while a lot of people have great success with them, others haven't and I wouldn't say any clear "best" product has emerged that I would recommend (they also add weight to the back which I would want to avoid).

Best of luck and I hope it's a great car for you!
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:56 AM
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Thanks guys, this is the perfect starting point info for me. I was hearing that the shock caps were an issue and planned that as one of the first things to do. I had been wondering about the shocks and oil so I appreciate that. I also plan on upgrading the front bumper. If I go aluminum it might help balance things a bit. My brushless system is a Fuze 4800kv esc/motor combo (DYN3755c).
. I have also heard that it is a good idea to replace a lot of the front end parts but warned about using aluminum replacement for the A arms because they are better off flexing rather than bending. What are your thoughts on that? It has nice tires on it now but more for pavement than dirt so I will be getting some new tires for it.
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Old 06-17-2018, 02:30 PM
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I did forget to mention that I also switched to aluminum shock caps and it was one of the best upgrades; so good that I forgot about it!

Originally Posted by carc View Post
I have also heard that it is a good idea to replace a lot of the front end parts but warned about using aluminum replacement for the A arms because they are better off flexing rather than bending. What are your thoughts on that?
Everything in the front of the Rustler is pretty solid; I don't really see a need to replace with aluminum except maybe to balance the car out (like I previously mentioned). I would warn strongly against aluminum A-arms. The general rule with aluminum parts is that when force is applied to them 1 or 2 things can happen. Either the aluminum part will transmit that force to the next joint (which often breaks the connected part) or it bends, at which point it's useless (bending parts back rarely works). Either way, unless the component is meant to be quite rigid, you're better off using plastic because plastic will bend elastically, absorb the force a crash might produce and flex back to its original shape with no damage done to other components.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:33 AM
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Stick with the factory plastics. Only aluminum upgrades i run is the shock caps, rear hubs(need more toe in), front c-hubs(to stop kingpins from breaking). Everything else works better being plastic and can absorb the hard crashes.

If i were to do it again with my Rustler id go with this setup:
Hot Racing sealed diff
STRC shock caps
AE springs(blue/green or silver/blue depending on final weight)
AE oil(varies for weight and conditions)
RPM offset compensating front arms
T5M wheels(offset needed for ROAR width requirements + RPM offset arms)
Jconcepts Silverado body
32p gearing
STRC rear 1* toe in hubs
STRC c-hubs
Savox 1257 w/ aluminum horn
2x5 bearings on stock steering rack
Castle 5700kv w/ Mamba X in sensored mode

I really dont think the chassis hinders performance. If anything it evens out the weight of the rear end and helps keep some weight up front. Id look into the RPM transmission case or going mid motor with a Chuckworks chassis. Its expensive at $100 for just the chassis but the turn in and response mid corner of a MM truck is very hard to beat. The G10 chassis i have has a severe imbalance to the rear and I keep adding weight up front to compensate. It still has issues with wanting to pogo stick the rear if the jump isnt just right. When it had the stock chassis and towers it was much more compliant off the jump face.
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Old 07-26-2018, 04:37 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to reply. It helps a lot. I have been checking out the rest of the site and I can't believe all the great information here. I can't stop reading and my head is starting to spin. I'm starting to believe what everyone is saying about this being an addiction. Keep the good information coming for my Rustler.
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:12 AM
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OK this truck is high strung. I like it that way but if it doesn't get traction when it takes off it spins out to the left. I checked my alignment and stiffened up the front shocks a but but it didn't make a difference. I have decided to seal the diff and see if a stiff oil will cure it. The problem is I have no idea what weight of oil to start with. I need it to tighten up a bit but don't want to lose a lot of handling in the corners. What weight would be a good starting point without locking up the diff?
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Old 07-27-2018, 06:22 PM
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:36 PM
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I was a bit frustrated with my rustler until I got a chuckworks mid motor chassis. Night and day difference in handling. Awesome in the air and fewer wheelies (still have plenty on tap).
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:50 AM
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I've got 2 rustlers for all around bashing and there great. Both have pretty much all the upgrades RPM offered. My sons still has the original brushed motor

My car mods:

Sky rc brushless motor/esc
2s lipo
proline trencher tires
big bore shocks
rpm arms, shock towers, bumpers, castor blocks etc.
metal drive yokes.
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:10 PM
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Here is the Rustler thread.

For a basher, what you already have is about as good as a 1/10th scale 2wd stadium truck is going to be. I would stick with plastic everywhere except the shock caps, rear hubs, and the front c-hubs. I would get a diff that is designed to be filled with fluid. Keep a set of on-road tires and get a good set of off-road tires.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:31 AM
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I sealed the diff and put in 30k oil. Still acts the same. I was told to go to 100k but instead I installed the TSM unit. I don't know how that works but it sure does. I can nail it on my smooth garage floor and it has just a hint of pull to the left then straitens out and goes perfectly straight. It is a huge difference and now the truck is fun to drive again. I still might go with the 100k fluid because the thing seems a little loose even after rebuilding the whole thing. I'm off to check out the other Rustler thread.
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Old 08-17-2018, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by carc View Post
I sealed the diff and put in 30k oil. Still acts the same. I was told to go to 100k but instead I installed the TSM unit. I don't know how that works but it sure does. I can nail it on my smooth garage floor and it has just a hint of pull to the left then straitens out and goes perfectly straight. It is a huge difference and now the truck is fun to drive again. I still might go with the 100k fluid because the thing seems a little loose even after rebuilding the whole thing. I'm off to check out the other Rustler thread.
Add some rear camber. I run 2* to 2.5* depending on the track.

Also, adding rear toe in will add some traction out of the corners. STRC make a great rear hub that has 1* of toe in. You could also get the RPM transmission case which has inserts for the rear a-arm attachments that add 3* rear toe in.

I run the STRC 1* hubs with the stock trans case with 2.5* rear camber and 30k diff fluid in a Hot Racing sealed diff case. Its about the perfect setup. Not too twitchy and has plenty of traction coming out of the corners.
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