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Old 03-02-2020, 09:56 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC ET410 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus

Welcome to the ET410 Wiki page.

  • 95% parts compatibility with the EB410 4WD 1/10th scale buggy.
  • Updated 3mm 7075 CNC chassis and revised A and B hinge pin braces.
  • 13mm hard anodized threaded shocks with locking spring perches.
  • New 32 pitch spur gear for ultimate durability
  • 3.5mm shock shafts with revised dual guide x-ring cartridge.
  • 7075 CNC machined adjustable hinge pin brace system.
  • Three high volume fluid-filled adjustable differentials.
  • Lightweight 7075 tapered center driveshafts.
  • Quick access to differentials and maintenance friendly layout.
  • Captured CVA front and rear driveshafts with heavy duty 6mm stub axles.
  • Fully ball raced reverse bellcrank steering system.
  • Uses 1/10th AE Offset Stadium Truck or Traxxas Slash Short Course offset wheels.
For you guys all discussing what power plant to run, I would take note of the following statement from Matt W.

Matt - Probably would recommend a 10.5 for something similar to 13.5 in a buggy. I personally run a 6.5 in it and it’s pretty fast. Pro4 4600 will run in it but it has a lot of power and will need to be turned down in the esc.

Parts Needed to convert from EB410 to ET410

Pin Replacement Tool options

Inner Hinge Pin Inserts- Degrees of Adjustment

Upgrades:

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Old 09-04-2018, 10:54 AM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by Cain
very nice!

wonder if the proline body mount system can be used with those screw down caps?
Thanks, and yes it would be possible, though I just saw on the FB thread that someone used XT2 body mounts which appear to be an easier solution, I'll double check later because I've got an XT2 that I'm getting ready to sell (pulling the electronics out of it to put in my ET410) and will double check the fitting... I think the XT2 body looks better than the 22T-2.0-MM body, especially around the rear wheels with less exposure from the side of the chassis.
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:58 AM
  #437  
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Just rebuilt my diffs as per recommendation in the manual after noticing it diffing out too much last night. They looked like they’d lost some oil, but there was no signs of leakage, i take it this is just the result of the gears bedding into each other and taking up less volume inside the case?

Either way they’re all correctly filled and feel like they did after the initial build.


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Old 09-04-2018, 08:29 PM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Yup mostly everyone has noticed the spring issue..not read about any resolution/ ideas.
As long as nothing hangs up funny it shouldn’t be an issue, right?

I worked on racing suspension in many 1:1 forms for many years and this was never an issue for any of my athletes. Hopefully that holds true for the 1:10 world because if your truck is handling well then why fix a problem that isn’t really there? Agree, disagree?

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Old 09-05-2018, 05:14 AM
  #439  
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I am running HWxr10 pro and 4pole 4300 kv motor. what mode and setting are people trying with this set up? I have what I think will work but want to see what other people are doing
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:17 PM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by strodedawg
I am running HWxr10 pro and 4pole 4300 kv motor. what mode and setting are people trying with this set up? I have what I think will work but want to see what other people are doing
im running a 7.5t HW V3 ESC 18t pinion.

what’s everyone else running?
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Old 09-07-2018, 12:07 PM
  #441  
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Originally Posted by RCSteveH


im running a 7.5t HW V3 ESC 18t pinion.

what’s everyone else running?
7.5 trinity monster , LRP FLOW esc 17t pin and running little hot sometimes. 180 190.
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:28 PM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by nitro2be
7.5 trinity monster , LRP FLOW esc 17t pin and running little hot sometimes. 180 190.
mine stays in the 120 range with a fan after 5 minutes.

also curious on the 4pole motor options. They come in 2 sizes. 52mm and 60mm . Has anyone fit the longer can in there?
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:23 PM
  #443  
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Originally Posted by AJH387
I'm getting close with mine. I'm not much for fancy paint but so far it has been a great build. Hope to finish and get to the track this week. I am shocked so many people don't like the body. Looks pretty rad to me. I love it.

you run at OCRC?
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Old 09-08-2018, 10:55 AM
  #444  
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Welp, IMO the M2C hinge pins are no stronger than the stock ones. No scientific proof, but they could be weaker actually.
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Old 09-08-2018, 11:49 AM
  #445  
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
Welp, IMO the M2C hinge pins are no stronger than the stock ones. No scientific proof, but they could be weaker actually.
I would have to agree. They were better than the original kit pins but not the updated ones. The best pins are the ones you cut from tool steel. Mine have taken a lot of abuse
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Old 09-08-2018, 04:45 PM
  #446  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
I would have to agree. They were better than the original kit pins but not the updated ones. The best pins are the ones you cut from tool steel. Mine have taken a lot of abuse
Thanks, any suggestions on where you can get 3mm tool steel pins? Would a dremel cut through that stuff?
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Old 09-09-2018, 02:13 AM
  #447  
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Originally Posted by RazorRC


Thanks, any suggestions on where you can get 3mm tool steel pins? Would a dremel cut through that stuff?
These are the pins I used, and we were able to cut them off with a dremel cutoff wheel but it needs to be one of the reinforced wheels. Even then we went through a couple wheels before we cut off all six pins I had ordered lol.

https://www.mcmaster.com/2900A256
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:47 AM
  #448  
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Speaking of pins.. it's worth noting that folks should replace the pins on their drive shafts at the first sign of any flat spots starting to form, this will get the longest possible life out of your out drives

I have been using the Mugen Pin Replacement Tool for years on my 1/8 cars, in fact I'm still using 6 of the 8 original out drives on my 6 y/o SCT410.1 because I regularly replace the pins.

Unfortunately, the EB/ET410 uses smaller 2.5x10mm pins and the Mugen tool is designed to only replace 3mm pins, however there is another company called RcRenew which sells a smaller 2.5mm slot and the screw is a direct fit with the Mugen tool, however the wrench that comes with Mugen tool is not compatible, you will need to buy a separate
Yellow Jacket Ratchet Yellow Jacket Ratchet
to work with the RcRenew screw head which is a 1/4" square drive.



*** UPDATE

Another trick to double the life of your pins is to rotate your CVD's from left/right side and flip your center dog bones after flat spots are starting to form on one edge

Last edited by billdelong; 09-09-2018 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 09-09-2018, 11:42 AM
  #449  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
These are the pins I used, and we were able to cut them off with a dremel cutoff wheel but it needs to be one of the reinforced wheels. Even then we went through a couple wheels before we cut off all six pins I had ordered lol.

https://www.mcmaster.com/2900A256
FWIW those will break before they bend, and they do break

I think some people were using https://www.mcmaster.com/91595a146 with success before we updated the hardness of our pins.
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Old 09-09-2018, 12:24 PM
  #450  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
FWIW those will break before they bend, and they do break

I think some people were using https://www.mcmaster.com/91595a146 with success before we updated the hardness of our pins.
They are definitely on the harder side but they break less than the kit ones bend and your a-arms at least on the EB can take the extra stress.
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