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Mugen MBX8 Eco

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Old 12-22-2018, 10:06 AM
  #106  
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Just a little bit of humor for a Saturday morning. This is my 2nd kit build. My first was an Associated b64d last December. This is my first time setting droop with actual droop screws so you can imagine my dismay when I was adjusting my droop screws and they were just turning, spinning backing out going back in and my droop was not changing. I finally just gave up and went out and drove it on my track(car drove awesome). Some time later in a moment of rare clarity I realized I wasn't adjusting my droop screws I was spinning the screws on the arm stiffeners. Yeah I know...

Another build factoid...

When I went to put the shock adjusters on for the two front shocks they didn't want to go on and I thought I stripped them so I ordered a set from Amain. Pretty bummed about not being able to finish the build. Then I had the idea of putting them on from the top. Now, I don't know if you read the manual properly if you are supposed to put them on from the bottom or the top, I guess it could be interpreted both ways.
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:55 PM
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I had the exact same thing! I filled with oil, had them perfect and then could not thread on those collars. Fortunately I realized my error before trying to force the collar on from the bottom. I had issue with getting the boots on over the ball joint too. I opted to put the boot on first.
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Old 12-22-2018, 02:00 PM
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Do people here think the lightweight differential pins would make a noticeable difference, possibly with the lighter screws too? I know rotating weight has more affect than static weight. I kind of wish I had assembled mine with the upgraded parts.
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Old 12-22-2018, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Hax View Post
Hi Champa! I just installed the non-trailing front uprights. Went together so much easier this time following the suggestion in the video. No cross-threading problem at all. I noticed these uprights have little grub screw holes like the rear ones. Not completely sure of the purpose but I did put little 3x3 grub screws in to keep dirt out of the bearings.
Several theories on those holes, personally I drop oil in there every now and then to make sure the bearings don't get stuck on the axle. It doesn't hurt so I figure why not?

Originally Posted by Tom Hax View Post
Do people here think the lightweight differential pins would make a noticeable difference, possibly with the lighter screws too? I know rotating weight has more affect than static weight. I kind of wish I had assembled mine with the upgraded parts.
I've never run the lightweight diff pins, doubt I could tell the difference to be honest. I do run the +1mm wheel hubs as an upgrade. I've also recently picked up those new -3mm front upright arms Part E2168: E2168 Front Upright Arm (-3): X8/E, X8T/E - Mugen Seiki Racing Highly recommend those as an upgrade, I put those on my Truggy as well.

The new Rear Wing Stay Spacer (+15) Part E2428: E2428 Rear Wing Stay Spacer (+15): X8/E, X8T/E - Mugen Seiki Racing is also a nice pickup. Adam Drake talks about it in his latest video but helps keep the rear locked in if you are still having problems after the break-in period.
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Old 01-06-2019, 03:01 PM
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15x21x4 mm bearings(the big skinny ones). Is there a secret to taking the shielding off of them to clean them? Or, am I dreaming of re using them?
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by H2on0 View Post
15x21x4 mm bearings(the big skinny ones). Is there a secret to taking the shielding off of them to clean them? Or, am I dreaming of re using them?
just buy 10 new for $10 and replace them as they go bad. I never re-used bearings unless they were the ceramic one that cost much more.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:41 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by H2on0 View Post
15x21x4 mm bearings(the big skinny ones). Is there a secret to taking the shielding off of them to clean them? Or, am I dreaming of re using them?
To answer myself in case any one is wondering. I was able to get the shielding off by sticking a sewing needle on the inside of the shielding ring popping it out.
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Old 01-29-2019, 06:15 AM
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Can someone measure the shocks for me? Extended length, front and rear.

I am looking to replace the shocks on my Arrma typhon, trying to figure out what other shocks will fit. My Typhon is 110mm / 120mm shock length.

thanks!
jerry
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:20 AM
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I think I found my answer. From the Mugen setup sheets, it looks like the front shocks are 107mm, the rears are 118.5mm.
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Old 02-09-2019, 06:43 PM
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So I have a 7000 mAh battery. I can get about 25 to 30 mins. out of it. Lets say I were to try a smaller 4s battery what type of run time could I get out of it. I guess I'm looking for less weight lower center of gravity? What does everyone run and what type of time do they get? I'm using a tekin rx3 and a tekin 1900kv motor.

thanks

joe
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:19 PM
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I have an Team Associated eTruggy(same thing as the mugen lol :-P) and am running a 6500mAh battery and can get the same out of it or a bit more if i lower the punch control on the ESC (I run Hobbywing)

The thing you want to keep in mind is temps of the motor/esc. I had done a 30 minute run one day and temped the motor at 192, also confirmed by the data logging pulled off the ESC for that run.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:05 PM
  #117  
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build instruction can be written a little better. just finish building mine and had several issues. turnbuckles, shock boots, shock collars... droop screws not easily accessible. car is solid though( expect nothing less from Mugen).
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