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Mugen MBX8 Eco

Old 05-29-2019, 03:06 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by cirnomodo
Went to a couple tracks over the weekend. Definitely had a blast. One thing I do notice is the two screws that bolt the motor mount to the chassis keep backing out with blue threadlock. That's probably from me bad at jumping at a big track, but way less prone to happen when I drive at a much smaller track with fast and way better-flowing jumps. Should I use some red threadlock?
I had the same issue. I usually only add 1 drop to the screws, but this wasn't enough for this part. I added 2 drops to the screw and 2 drops inside the motor mount holes. Now the screw is secure and not coming loose. And I can still remove it with a normal hex driver if needed.

I wouldn't red loctite since it will be hard to remove. If you need something stronger, mix 25% red locktite with 75% blue loctite. Or a 50/50 ratio and max. And don't use 4 drops if you decide to go this route or you'll have a hard time removing it.
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Old 06-03-2019, 06:39 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by cirnomodo
Went to a couple tracks over the weekend. Definitely had a blast. One thing I do notice is the two screws that bolt the motor mount to the chassis keep backing out with blue threadlock. That's probably from me bad at jumping at a big track, but way less prone to happen when I drive at a much smaller track with fast and way better-flowing jumps. Should I use some red threadlock?
I don't use liquid, but this Loctite blue paste on every metal to metal connection on my Mugen. The paste seems much easier to use for me. Just make sure you properly clean the screws before you apply a small bit of paste around the thread. Tighten firm, but don't overtighten and you won't ever have any problems. I've never had anything back out, especially a motor mount. Also another tip, any new motor like a Tekin.. make sure you break all the screws down, clean and use Loctite as well. If you don't that end bell will for sure pop off at the worse moment and could cause your motor to heat up and seize.


https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Loctite+506166&qid=1559611988&s=gateway&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Loctite+506166&qid=1559611988&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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Old 06-04-2019, 11:56 AM
  #153  
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I have a few packs on the buggy now with the box setup. It felt very loose at first but is getting better as the diffs are breaking in. After some more packs I'm wondering about experimenting with 3k in the rear diff instead of the 2k? Any thoughts?
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Old 06-04-2019, 02:46 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by RonFL
I have a few packs on the buggy now with the box setup. It felt very loose at first but is getting better as the diffs are breaking in. After some more packs I'm wondering about experimenting with 3k in the rear diff instead of the 2k? Any thoughts?
Adam told me that thicker rear diff oil should make it easier to drive on power (more grip). I received an easy to drive setup from Ronda and she was running 5-7-6 in the diff, so I guess it works, but I still need to try it.
And I haven't seen any setup sheets that go lower than 3k in the rear. Except for the Japanese guys (Hara etc) that ran 4-4-2 on a low grip and tight track.

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Old 06-04-2019, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Adam told me that thicker rear diff oil should make it easier to drive on power (more grip). I received an easy to drive setup from Ronda and she was running 5-7-6 in the diff, so I guess it works, but I still need to try it.
And I haven't seen any setup sheets that go lower than 3k in the rear. Except for the Japanese guys (Hara etc) that ran 4-4-2 on a low grip and tight track.

interesting, the box setup is 5-5-2...
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by RonFL



interesting, the box setup is 5-5-2...
Yes, I know. But it's pretty soft in the rear. Diffs also depend a lot on your driving style, so you'll have to experiment what works best for you.
Also, if you running 100% box setup, I suggest you go to 450 in the rear shocks and keep 550 in the front shocks.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Yes, I know. But it's pretty soft in the rear. Diffs also depend a lot on your driving style, so you'll have to experiment what works best for you.
Also, if you running 100% box setup, I suggest you go to 450 in the rear shocks and keep 550 in the front shocks.
Cool, that's good info. I love the overall feel and steering but find the rear end just a tad loose on corner exits under power.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:42 AM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by RonFL
Cool, that's good info. I love the overall feel and steering but find the rear end just a tad loose on corner exits under power.
450 in the rear shocks should give you more on power grip :-)
What is the rest of your setup? 100% box setup?
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Old 06-05-2019, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
450 in the rear shocks should give you more on power grip :-)
What is the rest of your setup? 100% box setup?
Yup, 100% box setup!
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Old 06-05-2019, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RonFL
Yup, 100% box setup!
The box setup gives decent forward traction.
I'd start with 450 in the rear shocks. Then move the rear hubs 1.5-2.5mm forward to gain on power traction if you still need more.
And if the track is really slippery and the rear end is uncontrollable on power, go down to 4K or 3K in the center diff.

Another thing that made the car better for me, were the inline front uprights. They make the car more stable during cornering, but they increase the on-power steering a little bit. And the -3mm steering plates are also a nice option. It makes the car steering more aggressive on turn in, but it's smoother and more predictable on power.
The only time I switch back to the stock steering plates is when I run on super high grip astroturf because they tame down the car in the corners.
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Old 06-05-2019, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
The box setup gives decent forward traction.
I'd start with 450 in the rear shocks. Then move the rear hubs 1.5-2.5mm forward to gain on power traction if you still need more.
And if the track is really slippery and the rear end is uncontrollable on power, go down to 4K or 3K in the center diff.

Another thing that made the car better for me, were the inline front uprights. They make the car more stable during cornering, but they increase the on-power steering a little bit. And the -3mm steering plates are also a nice option. It makes the car steering more aggressive on turn in, but it's smoother and more predictable on power.
The only time I switch back to the stock steering plates is when I run on super high grip astroturf because they tame down the car in the corners.
Sweet, thanks! Looks like I'll be ordering more stuff to experiment with... lol.
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:36 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
The box setup gives decent forward traction.
I'd start with 450 in the rear shocks. Then move the rear hubs 1.5-2.5mm forward to gain on power traction if you still need more.
And if the track is really slippery and the rear end is uncontrollable on power, go down to 4K or 3K in the center diff.

Another thing that made the car better for me, were the inline front uprights. They make the car more stable during cornering, but they increase the on-power steering a little bit. And the -3mm steering plates are also a nice option. It makes the car steering more aggressive on turn in, but it's smoother and more predictable on power.
The only time I switch back to the stock steering plates is when I run on super high grip astroturf because they tame down the car in the corners.
On high grip astro i used a completly different setup. With high temperatures 20k in the front, 15k in the mid and 5k in the rear. Shocks 400 front and 350 rear. Stabis 3.2 front and rear. We do have astro with the highest grip in the Netherlands. On less grip astro i go down on stabi to gain more roll and depending on the track adjust the shocks.
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:27 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by gdw1963
On high grip astro i used a completly different setup. With high temperatures 20k in the front, 15k in the mid and 5k in the rear. Shocks 400 front and 350 rear. Stabis 3.2 front and rear. We do have astro with the highest grip in the Netherlands. On less grip astro i go down on stabi to gain more roll and depending on the track adjust the shocks.
I'm also using a complete different setup on astro, but I was only talking about the optional -3mm steering plates. They make the turn in really aggressive and can make the car hook on astroturf.

My home track is 90% astro (10% clay) and a tight, small track. I run 10-7-5 over here, but it's not super high grip and flowing like Mach One.
I never like 3.2mm stabi's on my MBX7 because it's easy to tip the car over in a corner when there's a small bump. But on a smooth track, it works well.

Leaning down the shocks 1 or 2 holes in the front and 1 hole in the back is also nice to make the car easier to drive on astro. And raising the front and/or rear link on the tower. It will make the car roll more, but it will roll slow and smooth and make it's very predictable to drive. You will feel when the car is going to grip roll.
And the ackerman also changes the feel of the steering a lot. Usually the further back on the rack, the easier to drive on high grip astro.
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:04 AM
  #164  
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Hey guys. What shock springs and sway bars are you using? Not the chrome springs, right? I want to get one set front and back of firmer & softer springs. Also one harder & softer sway bar for front and rear. Can you give me the parts numbers for these? Or just point me in the right direction please.
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Will
Hey guys. What shock springs and sway bars are you using? Not the chrome springs, right? I want to get one set front and back of firmer & softer springs. Also one harder & softer sway bar for front and rear. Can you give me the parts numbers for these? Or just point me in the right direction please.
The black springs are used on the buggy and the silver ones on the truggy.

Most guys use 9.0 and 9.25 in front. And 10.50 and 10.75 in the rear. 9.0 and 10.50 comes with the eco kit, so only need to buy 2 springs.

As as for sway bars, 2.3 in the front most used (kit sway bar) and sometimes 2.1 or 2.4.
In the rear it varies. Everything between 2.5 and 2.8 is used often. I personally like 2.6 or 2.7 the most.
2.5 should give more traction on power, but itís less stable when turning in and makes the car a little twitchy on entry. But there are conditions where I use it. And I guess it also depends on driving style.
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