turfy77

1) Aftermarket Castor Blocks: whats better, RPM plastic or Aluminium ones?

2) Ive got the Slash 58076-24 model (latest LCG). If I got the 3S lipo battery, are these too powerful, whats the chances of stripping gears etc etc Is it better to stick to 2s or get 3s?

3)How much wider are the RPM front bumpers? they dont look any different, is it worth getting one of these straight away?

Zinergy

iTrader: (2)

I have the alum ones and haven't had an issue with them since switching. For 3s power I would suggest upgrading the rear axles to MIP. I have ran my car on 3s for most of it's life and have only replaced the spur once. With proper mesh they can last on 3s. Just know that the stock 3500kv motor will get very warm on 3s... so check temps regularly. On a hot day don't try to run an entire 3s pack without checking motor temps.

kevinatfms

iTrader: (10)

Stick with the stock bumpers. They are great for what they need to do. I cut the top bars off the front bumper for a cleaner look. I cut the inner sections of the rear bumper out to save a bit of weight. I switched to RPM after i wore my stock bumpers through(screws wouldnt hold anymore). RPM were the same price as the stock bumpers so it was just easier to order them together and save a buck or two. RPM bumpers are heavier than the modded stock bumpers though.

I run Proline caster blocks. I have broken a few of the stock ones on really hard hits. Never tried the RPM version. Check STRC also for the aluminum version. They have a good selection and some are on sale.

You can run 3s but dont expect the pin in the top shaft to last long. I have sheared them multiple times on 3s even with the slipper set loose. I replace the pins with a solid wheel hex pin and normally dont have a problem after that. If you still have the stock hollow pin, remove it and install a wheel pin instead. For the track I run 2s only(required for racing) on a Castle 4600kv system with the Sidewinder V3. I turn the punch control on along with pulling the braking back to reduce lock up.

One last thing i cant recommend enough is the Hot Racing sealed diff case. Worth every penny of the $28 it costs. I fill mine with 30-50k weight fluid(running 50k now) and it is a totally different truck. No more diff out on power in tighter turns, it will push a bit on exit but you can add some weight to the front to combat this. .25oz works great in the pocket in the front bulkhead. I remove the weight if the track is sticky and add it if there is a bit of dust on the surface.

Andy Koback

iTrader: (280)

Remember...once aluminum bends, they're junk!

thedonutman

True, but consider how small and chunky Slash caster blocks are. I doubt they will ever bend before transferring stress to another part meant to flex (like the A-arm). Then again, I got RPM axle carriers and caster blocks for my Rustler VXL and I had no problems even on 3s. Either one is a good choice, but is an aluminum caster block (roughly twice as expensive as plastic) going to last twice as long as an RPM one? My guess would be no, but I'll be interested to hear other opinions.

Zinergy

iTrader: (2)

The best things about alum parts is that they rarely strip out and have less play. Can't tell you how many plastic parts I have stripped out or hollowed out from either screws being screwed in and out, in and out when it's time to replace wheel bearings etc or just from pulling straight out from a hard hit. Alum threads on a bolt is so much better. Plus less play overall. Things are tighter for longer. Ever notice the play or slop in RC cars wheels or steering even though all screws are tight. Some of that will always be there but a lot of that is plastic parts giving play to screws and to wheel bearings.

rcbuggy88

1. I would get the aluminum ones and then get the hinge pins with the e-clips and not the threads. The suspension will be freer and the hinge pins won't back out. A couple of companies make aluminum caster blocks such as Traxxas and STRC. Although I am posting the links from Amain, I would recommend, if you have a track nearby, to buy it from them to keep the track open and support your local hobby store/track.

Hinge pins with e-clips:
Lunsford: https://www.amainhobbies.com/lunsfor...lns3726/p69559
Lunsford with titanium turnbuckles: https://www.amainhobbies.com/lunsfor...ns4726/p107159
Here is another alternative with locknuts from STRC: https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-raci...t3640bk/p34391
Same thing but from Proline: https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...096-00/p245649

2. 3s is fine but you should watch to make sure that the motor is not too hot. The car is meant to run 3s, so the spur shouldn't strip teeth. Make sure your charger can charge 3s. If so, make sure you set it to 3s. If you have a temp-gun, don't let it go above 140-150 degrees. If you don't have a temp-gun, you can press your finger against the motor. If you can't hold it against the motor for 3+ seconds, it is probably too hot. Wait for the motor to cool down before running the car again.

3. I don't think it would be worth changing the bumper because the chance of breakage is pretty low. If you think it looks better then sure.

bubbaslash

iTrader: (1)

Aluminum caster blocks for sure. The stock ones are prone to breakage. The RPM blocks will flex before breaking, but sometimes at the expense of a bent king pin. Aluminum is rigid and strong so it supports the king pin better.
The gears in the Traxxas trans are tough as nails, but the hollow roll pin that holds the top gear to the layshaft is prone to breakage. I would use the STRC topshaft with hardened steel pin. It allows the use of an Associated B4/T4/SC10 dual disc slipper which can be had for about $10 from RC chop shops on ebay. The Associated slipper allows better adjustability.
I would run the RPM rear bumper and mount, but stick with the Traxxas front bumper. I like that impact ring behind the bumper.

Gsmith1979

iTrader: (10)

On my sons LCG 2wd slash with castle sidewinder and 3800kv motor, 3s is way overkill unless trying to do 60 mph speed runs. On the track, or even bashing 3S is just silly and breaks stock driveshafts much faster than normal.

Zinergy

iTrader: (2)

It is overkill but sometimes it's fun to do 45mph wheelies. That's what my slash was for... for a time. I had mine geared for speed at one point. 32t pinion. There were a few speed passes that the car did an entire back flip while moving. Had to have been going 40-50mph when I gave it full throttle and flipped over onto it's wheels and kept driving.

turfy77

Thanks for all the replys, can someone recommend a decent 2s battery off ebay?

thedonutman

I've heard good things about Gens Ace; they've got 2S LiPos in capacities of 5000mAh all the way up to 7600mAh with discharge rates from 50C to 100C. What connectors are you running? Most of the Gens Ace batteries come with Deans pre-soldered on, but I saw a few with the old-style Traxxas connectors if you don't want to solder your own. I've used Traxxas LiPos with good results, but they're just so much more expensive than most other LiPos with similar capacity and discharge rates.

Zinergy

iTrader: (2)

Gens Ace comes in any of the main style connectors. You just have to buy the right ones. They are decent basher batteries.

turfy77

I was thinking of trying the Floureon batteries on ebay, has anybody bought and tried these, they are half the price?

turfy77

I havent received my traxxas yet, still in the post, whats the best connectors to go with? Is it best to stay with traxxas or swap over to Deans connectors, I can solder so thats no problem