Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

The 6.1 series truck front a arms are about 2mm shorter than the 5 series truck a arms. 5 series includes SC5M, T5M, Trophy rat, ProSC10, and the Reflex DB10.

The 6.1 series truck rear a arms are a good bit longer than the 5 series truck rear a arms.

The ProSC10 a arms are the same arms used on the T5M and SC5M.

You can use the front 6.1 a arms on the 5 series, but you have to use a spacer where the a arm mounts on the front bulk head. To use the rear 6.1 series a arms on 5 series you would also need the 6.1 hubs and axle assembly.

The 5 series rear a arms hinge pins are 2mm longer than the 6.1 series rear hinge pins.

Hope this helps.

Typpo

Relaxin

Hello,

I'm just coming back to this hobby and the last time I bought a team kit, a new one came out 2 months later. It was my mistake for not asking around if a new design/kit was around the corner. I want to get back into racing but I would hate to make the same mistake again. Is the RC10T 6.1 still consdidered a fresh model? Is it a good time to buy or hold off a bit for something new?

Thanks

dickie doyle

iTrader: (17)

Relaxin

Thank you for the feedback. I'm going to place an order for the RC10T6.1 as it's the easiest truck to get parts at my local track and hobby store. I will be racing 17.5 and maybe try 13.5 later on. What ESC/Motor combo are you guys running? Customer service is more important to me than price. Has anyone tried the SMC RF-170 with their 17.5 motor? Tekin still a good option?

Thanks

dickie doyle

iTrader: (17)

joeld2llio

iTrader: (18)

I run the SMC RF-170 in 2WD buggy, 4WD buggy and ST. I also still have a couple of their old 160's that are still going strong. There is a custom stock firmware on their website too. I never bothered to do it though because I often run 13.5 instead of stock. I've had trouble with the fan ports dying on the 170's but they don't really seem to need a fan. They still function just fine and don't get too hot.

Relaxin

Hey, thanks for the info on the ESC! When the fan ports went out did you try getting one replaced? Any thoughts on SMC's customer service? Do you also run their batteries any thoughts on those?


Joeld2llio, you talk about a custom stock firmware that one can download from their website. So how do these firmware updates work? There are specific firmware's just for stock and a different one for modified motors? I notice you can buy a program box from SMC to adjust settings but wouldn't that make my car faster or superior than the other guy that has an ESC with no firmware update? If everyone in the race is running a ST 17.5, wouldn't all the 17.5 motors that are ROAR approved stay about even assuming the driving skill is roughly the same? When I went to my local hobby store they had a HobbyWing XR10 Juststock on display but they told me you can't really modify or change the settings with it. So is the XR10 Juststock going to make me slower, if lets say I was racing you and you had the SMC 170?


Thanks

joeld2llio

iTrader: (18)

I had one fan go out when the esc was fairly new and I did get that one replaced. Their customer service has been great. I emailed Danny late at night and had a reply by morning. The others I didn't worry about because the fan didn't really seem necessary.

I used to run their batteries but don't any more. I didnt want to switch to 5mm bullets and thats all they offer now.

I didn't do the stock update so I'm not positive. If you message Danny I'm sure he would tell you. With the box you can adjust punch, drive and brake frequency and some other settings. This helps you fine tune the esc to the power of the motor you are using.

Ive found a pretty big difference between motors that are all ROAR approved. Especially when it comes to stock class motors like 17.5 and 13.5 I've felt a big increase in power with the newer generation motors. A 13.5 S-plus feels as good or better than my old 10.5's.

I also have a couple of Justocks and they feel very good to me. You can adjust most of the same stuff as on a RF-170 but you can't add timing or turbo. Those arent allowed for stock classes anyways. But if you want to run say a 13.5 in stock class and add a little boost for the straight you can't do that with the Justock. Also if you decide you want to run mod in the future then you have to buy a different esc. Going an entire race without making mistakes is more important than which esc you run..

thirtydaZe

iTrader: (33)

subscribed

dickie doyle

iTrader: (17)

Relaxin

Just about to start building my T6.1 (for racing at the local track) and wanted to ask if the kit has some weak points that I might need to buy some upgraded parts for. Any recommendations would be awesome!

Thanks

Krio

iTrader: (159)

The plastic steering rack and front hinge pin mount are about the only things I've consistently seen upgraded on the T6.1 for durability.

ouhockeyplayer

Wondering if someone could provide some expert input into an issue I was having while running my T6.1 on an indoor clay track last night. When accelerating quickly for a jump I was experiencing a delay or hesitation in acceleration. Best way to describe it is the feeling you get when your battery is about to run low and you experience delay in punch. I swapped the batteries in the car and the radio to no effect. I have been playing around with a gear diff on clay and was running 20K fluid in it. Would thicker fluid play a part in acceleration issues? I know a ball diff is the way to go on clay and I have a Schelle pro built diff on the way to try out. When I got home I swapped the sensor cable and slipper pads as a possible solution as well. However, when I put the kit AE pads in I could not get the slipper to set right. The front would not lift when holding the tires with a short burst no matter how tight I made the slipper. I put the old Mckune Design high bite pads back in (but flipped around) and I was able to get the front to lift as it should. The only other thing I can think of is that my fan broke and I was running without a fan possibly causing motor temps to go to high and the XR 10 Pro ESC protection mode to kick in. I plugged in the wifi module and went into the data record section and found that the max motor temp was recorded at 188.6 which is the default limit in the ESC. Im not sure how accurate this is as sometimes I get data records when I drive and sometimes I don't. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Hoping the motor isn't about to go on me.

mushroomed

iTrader: (8)