Brushless conversion layout input
#1
Brushless conversion layout input
I am doing an RC10GT brushless conversion with a Mamba X and 3800kV motor. Right now I'm trying to figure out the cleanest way to do the layout for proper weight balance, low CG, and nicest looking packaging. I'm looking for some input from the pro modders out there
I have a CNC, so I can machine any plates/brackets needed to do it right, within reason...
Here is what I have to work with, and some possible options. Excuse the NiMH battery back, it's just an equivalent sized placeholder for the biggest possible 2S or 3S stick-type Lipo.
1. This is by far the most popular method, because it's so easy to fit everything. I think it looks bad, and exposes the battery to getting damaged. Also the body won't fit like this.
Other ideas...
2.
3.
4. Won't really work due to hitting the pinion gear...
5.
6. This idea would mean mounting the battery on a plate above everything else. Would raise the CG a lot though..
Thanks!
I have a CNC, so I can machine any plates/brackets needed to do it right, within reason...
Here is what I have to work with, and some possible options. Excuse the NiMH battery back, it's just an equivalent sized placeholder for the biggest possible 2S or 3S stick-type Lipo.
1. This is by far the most popular method, because it's so easy to fit everything. I think it looks bad, and exposes the battery to getting damaged. Also the body won't fit like this.
Other ideas...
2.
3.
4. Won't really work due to hitting the pinion gear...
5.
6. This idea would mean mounting the battery on a plate above everything else. Would raise the CG a lot though..
Thanks!
#2
I'm thinking option 6, but put the servo on a bracket on top instead of the battery. Or stand the servo up on the right side of the car. But if you do that, swap the radio box and esc position for weight distribution if necessary.
I like these kinds of projects!
I like these kinds of projects!
#3
Tech Rookie
Oh man this is super cool, I have the same car and would love to do something like this to revive the car that got my into RC.
#5
Haha yesss. I've had this car since new in 2002 It has been through hell and then sat for many years because the nitro just became such a nuisance to run. It's fast as hell, but now with lipos and brushless it is the logical (and green) choice...
So the NIMH pack is the absolute largest it will ever be. I checked a bunch of commonly available LiPo packs and they get up to 150mm long. The NiMh is 154mm long.
frankf thanks for mentioning the T5M, I just checked it out and got some ideas. I also got my body and was able to JUST barely squeeze it over the battery without it flaring out (if I wrap the wires inward). So, I am leaning toward Option 1 afterall.
I'd like to do something unique with it and make some trick parts while I'm at it. Any ideas? I'm probably going to mill up a 1/4" aluminum plate with a bunch of parts on it.
So the NIMH pack is the absolute largest it will ever be. I checked a bunch of commonly available LiPo packs and they get up to 150mm long. The NiMh is 154mm long.
frankf thanks for mentioning the T5M, I just checked it out and got some ideas. I also got my body and was able to JUST barely squeeze it over the battery without it flaring out (if I wrap the wires inward). So, I am leaning toward Option 1 afterall.
I'd like to do something unique with it and make some trick parts while I'm at it. Any ideas? I'm probably going to mill up a 1/4" aluminum plate with a bunch of parts on it.
#7
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
I'd suggest using either a square pack (you can get them in higher capacities that shorties) or a saddle pack. I've got a Losi XXX-NT with an electric conversion. It was done by someone else and I plan to re-do it with a better motor mount. A shorty works for that though I plan to reconfigure it for saddles. If you do saddles, you could stand them on their sides (if you needed the room) in the center without increasing CG too much.
#8
The idea with the pack I selected was that it seems to be the most common. You can get them from a variety of sources, the prices are cheaper, and I can use them in another model I have that needs a stick.
But yes.. I agree a saddle pack or shorty would fit way better.
But yes.. I agree a saddle pack or shorty would fit way better.
#9
Alrighty, it went pretty well! The thing RIPS! Super well balanced. I am really happy with it, and it's weird having reverse for the first time lol. The Castle stuff is super nice quality and their little castle link software is awesome. R/C really has come a long way.
I tried to give it as much adjustability as possible in the battery placement, hence all the holes and slots. It will accommodate any battery type which can then be velcro'd, strapped, or clamped down. The motor mount works well, and can be bolted to both the chassis and transmission for optimal stiffness. I wish I went with a pivot type motor adjustment because the two sliding holes is hard to adjust for me. Everything bolts to the factory holes so I didn't have to turn the chassis into swiss cheese.
The transmission brace was meant to double as a receiver mount but I went with mounting it up front instead - cleaner wiring.
I had some extra room on the plate so that explains the new front bumper. Thanks for your guys' input! I hope the transmission holds up!
I tried to give it as much adjustability as possible in the battery placement, hence all the holes and slots. It will accommodate any battery type which can then be velcro'd, strapped, or clamped down. The motor mount works well, and can be bolted to both the chassis and transmission for optimal stiffness. I wish I went with a pivot type motor adjustment because the two sliding holes is hard to adjust for me. Everything bolts to the factory holes so I didn't have to turn the chassis into swiss cheese.
The transmission brace was meant to double as a receiver mount but I went with mounting it up front instead - cleaner wiring.
I had some extra room on the plate so that explains the new front bumper. Thanks for your guys' input! I hope the transmission holds up!