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Schumacher's NEW Cat L1 4wd Buggy!

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Schumacher's NEW Cat L1 4wd Buggy!

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Old 04-01-2018, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Propchecku37 View Post
Does anyone else make long boss pinion gears, or just Schumacher? I did see a chart for what pinion gears to run with the different types of spur gears but not for different motors in the pdf manual. 76,80,82,&83 are the spurs available stock is 83 So i was thinking 26/83 to start with on 13.5. Any thoughts guys?
I guess it would depend on the size of your track, motor (high rpm, or high torque) track surface etc. bigger track 26/76. Lots of factors much depending on the 13.5 your running as again some are super high rpm, thus they run higher FDR than high torque 13.5
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Old 04-01-2018, 02:58 PM
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Man I am really thinking of getting one of these for my carpet track!!!

EA
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Old 04-01-2018, 04:48 PM
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pre order https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumac...chk176/p754978
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Propchecku37 View Post
Does anyone else make long boss pinion gears, or just Schumacher? I did see a chart for what pinion gears to run with the different types of spur gears but not for different motors in the pdf manual. 76,80,82,&83 are the spurs available stock is 83 So i was thinking 26/83 to start with on 13.5. Any thoughts guys?
Actually, you can use standard pinions too
If you have a look at the chassis focus pictures of orlowsky‘s L1 on redrc, from the last EOS race in austria, he was using a standard pinion!
It is may saver with a long boss pinion, but it works with an standard too...
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Old 04-02-2018, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Man I am really thinking of getting one of these for my carpet track!!!

EA
On Order for WCRC Already have the Cat k2 KC and love it...
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Propchecku37 View Post
Does anyone else make long boss pinion gears, or just Schumacher? I did see a chart for what pinion gears to run with the different types of spur gears but not for different motors in the pdf manual. 76,80,82,&83 are the spurs available stock is 83 So i was thinking 26/83 to start with on 13.5. Any thoughts guys?

I would start w/ the 76/25-26 Track size? Thats around 7.45-7.16 ratio range which I think is excellent for 13.5.
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:49 AM
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I see people posting the pre order from Aman. While Amain has done me no wrong, Discountrcstore.com has the best retail service I have ever experienced. Phil has gone above and beyond for me multiple times. They specialize in Schumacher and have great prices too. I highly recommend them. Hey Phil, any word on when they will ship?

-Kevin
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Old 04-02-2018, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
I see people posting the pre order from Aman. While Amain has done me no wrong, Discountrcstore.com has the best retail service I have ever experienced. Phil has gone above and beyond for me multiple times. They specialize in Schumacher and have great prices too. I highly recommend them. Hey Phil, any word on when they will ship?

-Kevin
DRC only asks for a $100 deposit as well
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
I see people posting the pre order from Aman. While Amain has done me no wrong, Discountrcstore.com has the best retail service I have ever experienced. Phil has gone above and beyond for me multiple times. They specialize in Schumacher and have great prices too. I highly recommend them. Hey Phil, any word on when they will ship?

-Kevin
If you are Gold/Platinum member in amain you get better discount.
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Swosh View Post
Why does Schumacher stick to belt drive? It could snap, takes more space than a shaft, access to diffs is restrained, restricts your set ups possibilities, needs belt tensioners... No way to put the weight in the middle / front as with the tekno eb410 or the HB d418.

Any objective and proven advantage of belt drive to compensate for the a.m. drawbacks?

Torque steering with shaft drive is sometimes mentioned but seems to be rather a problem of poorly designed 1/1 wannabe sport cars. The causes (lack of symmetry that leads to different tweaks between left and right front wheels) are not really present in rc cars anyway.

As to the sometimes alleged efficiency advantages of belts (no need to turn the longitudinal movement of the motor 90 degrees to the wheels), I have never seen any proof for that although it could be measured objectively. Sounds like a bold claim then.

And when you look at competition results nothing hints at any advantage of the belt drive.

Any hard evidence I am wrong is welcome though.
I see so much belt hate, I really don't understand it. Shaft is good, but I don't think it's superior, to each their own. Some other manufacturers have made belt cars that give the idea a bad name.

Now, to address some of your points, from my personal experience.

I don't know about this car with its center 3 gear trans, but my k1 would out roll any shaft car you care to match it against. a good belt drive is much more free than a shaft car. This new car with new belts with larger pulleys should enable the belts to be run even looser than before, so I'm hoping it will be just as free.

Schumacher mostly sight rotational forces as their main reason for sticking with belt. they believe the car corners and jumps better with the motor rotating in the same direction as the car.

Personally, I find belts much more durable than shaft drive. out drives wear, pins wear and you get lots of slop in the drive train with a shaft car. That doesn't happen with belts. I ran the same set of belts for 3 years in my K1 running a 6.5 outdoor on loose clay. I changed them before a big event because I thought, 3 years was a pretty good run. They were still fine and are in my pit box as spares.

If a belt slips, you still finish your race. They can snap obviously, and it does happen. but honestly, its about as common as a dogbone pin walking out in my experience.

Schumacher seems to have the materials sorted a bit better than other manufacturers. I've seen TLR pulleys melt from very minor belt slippage, not the Schumacher. They put up with a lot of punishment.

With regard to layout, surely it's easier with belts. you can have any battery layout you want in this car, it all just goes under the rear belt. with a shaft car, you have a drive shaft in the center of the car.

with regard to maintenance, belts are so easy it's crazy. again, I can't speak to this car, but my k1 was 4 screws to access a diff on either end.

This new car looks awesome, I can't wait to build mine. sorry for the long post.
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by cjmurph View Post
I see so much belt hate, I really don't understand it. Shaft is good, but I don't think it's superior, to each their own. Some other manufacturers have made belt cars that give the idea a bad name.

Now, to address some of your points, from my personal experience.

I don't know about this car with its center 3 gear trans, but my k1 would out roll any shaft car you care to match it against. a good belt drive is much more free than a shaft car. This new car with new belts with larger pulleys should enable the belts to be run even looser than before, so I'm hoping it will be just as free.

Schumacher mostly sight rotational forces as their main reason for sticking with belt. they believe the car corners and jumps better with the motor rotating in the same direction as the car.

Personally, I find belts much more durable than shaft drive. out drives wear, pins wear and you get lots of slop in the drive train with a shaft car. That doesn't happen with belts. I ran the same set of belts for 3 years in my K1 running a 6.5 outdoor on loose clay. I changed them before a big event because I thought, 3 years was a pretty good run. They were still fine and are in my pit box as spares.

If a belt slips, you still finish your race. They can snap obviously, and it does happen. but honestly, its about as common as a dogbone pin walking out in my experience.

Schumacher seems to have the materials sorted a bit better than other manufacturers. I've seen TLR pulleys melt from very minor belt slippage, not the Schumacher. They put up with a lot of punishment.

With regard to layout, surely it's easier with belts. you can have any battery layout you want in this car, it all just goes under the rear belt. with a shaft car, you have a drive shaft in the center of the car.

with regard to maintenance, belts are so easy it's crazy. again, I can't speak to this car, but my k1 was 4 screws to access a diff on either end.

This new car looks awesome, I can't wait to build mine. sorry for the long post.
Thanks for your great answer. Don't apologize for the length: that's perfect to me and it really addresses the issues I raised.

Didn't know shafts were subject to significant wear, I thought they would last a buggy life long without trouble. Ok that's the kind of term one may argue how long that really is...

4 screws to access the diffs is great: for my 25-30 y. old kyosho optima mid custom special basically you'd have to unbuild almost the entire car.

And belts do not really dry up with time by the way, well at least for my kyosho: in spite of more than 20 years spent on the attic at my parents place, going through freezing temperatures and hot summers the belt is still doing fine with a 16 x 2 brushed motor (the strongest ones at the time my optima mid came had 12-13 turns, so I'm rather close to maximum strain on the drive train).

Last edited by Swosh; 04-04-2018 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:42 AM
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We need more pics and info on this bad boy
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:52 AM
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I have been told it’s a beast on bumpy super low bite wet outdoor astro. If that’s the case it should be just fine on low bite hard packed bumpy dirt.
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Old 04-08-2018, 11:16 AM
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had a guy I know in the region who ran a Schumacher, it was a interesting car to see. If he gets back into 1/10 be curious if he gives this a look again.
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Old 04-08-2018, 11:27 AM
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I know a racer whom has the L1 pre ordered, hence I am looking forward to seeing it in action.
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