222LikesSchumacher's NEW Cat L1 4wd Buggy!
10-18-2018, 10:44 AM
#287
Tech Rookie
Belt skipping?
Hey guys, I'm new to RCTech in terms of being a member, but not to RCing in general.
I just purchased my L1 and ran it for the first time last night. I bought it to replace my Serpent SDX-4. So far I love the way the car handles and jumps, but I'm having issues with what sounds like a skipping belt. I'm running a 6.5t motor on a prepped indoor dirt track and not at full power yet. If I make the belts really tight to avoid the belt clicking sounds, the car runs really.hot. too loose and the belt slips. BtW, the trans, diffs, wheels all spin freely when isolated on their own.
I've tried setting the slipper to work together with a not so tight belt, but I still hear the clicking every time I blip the throttle to send the car over a jump. If I set the slipper too loose, then I can hear and feel that the slipper is slipping way too much.
I'm wondering if I'm pointing the finger more so at the rear belt, when it may be front belt that's slipping. Anyhow, any input would be great. Thanks.
I just purchased my L1 and ran it for the first time last night. I bought it to replace my Serpent SDX-4. So far I love the way the car handles and jumps, but I'm having issues with what sounds like a skipping belt. I'm running a 6.5t motor on a prepped indoor dirt track and not at full power yet. If I make the belts really tight to avoid the belt clicking sounds, the car runs really.hot. too loose and the belt slips. BtW, the trans, diffs, wheels all spin freely when isolated on their own.
I've tried setting the slipper to work together with a not so tight belt, but I still hear the clicking every time I blip the throttle to send the car over a jump. If I set the slipper too loose, then I can hear and feel that the slipper is slipping way too much.
I'm wondering if I'm pointing the finger more so at the rear belt, when it may be front belt that's slipping. Anyhow, any input would be great. Thanks.
10-18-2018, 04:34 PM
#289
Hey guys, I'm new to RCTech in terms of being a member, but not to RCing in general.
I just purchased my L1 and ran it for the first time last night. I bought it to replace my Serpent SDX-4. So far I love the way the car handles and jumps, but I'm having issues with what sounds like a skipping belt. I'm running a 6.5t motor on a prepped indoor dirt track and not at full power yet. If I make the belts really tight to avoid the belt clicking sounds, the car runs really.hot. too loose and the belt slips. BtW, the trans, diffs, wheels all spin freely when isolated on their own.
I've tried setting the slipper to work together with a not so tight belt, but I still hear the clicking every time I blip the throttle to send the car over a jump. If I set the slipper too loose, then I can hear and feel that the slipper is slipping way too much.
I'm wondering if I'm pointing the finger more so at the rear belt, when it may be front belt that's slipping. Anyhow, any input would be great. Thanks.
I just purchased my L1 and ran it for the first time last night. I bought it to replace my Serpent SDX-4. So far I love the way the car handles and jumps, but I'm having issues with what sounds like a skipping belt. I'm running a 6.5t motor on a prepped indoor dirt track and not at full power yet. If I make the belts really tight to avoid the belt clicking sounds, the car runs really.hot. too loose and the belt slips. BtW, the trans, diffs, wheels all spin freely when isolated on their own.
I've tried setting the slipper to work together with a not so tight belt, but I still hear the clicking every time I blip the throttle to send the car over a jump. If I set the slipper too loose, then I can hear and feel that the slipper is slipping way too much.
I'm wondering if I'm pointing the finger more so at the rear belt, when it may be front belt that's slipping. Anyhow, any input would be great. Thanks.
10-19-2018, 10:57 AM
#290
Tech Rookie
So it turns out the rear belt was a little worn down from the skipping. However,the cause of the driveline drag was caused by the 8mm long FAB shaft screw backing out and rubbing against the back of the spur gear. I couldn't even see this until I think the transmission apart to change the rear belt. It must of been the one screw that I forgot to add Loctite to.
After swapping the front and rear diffs for good measure (in case there is any wear on the rear diff case teeth), installing a new rear belt, setting the rear belt to what is a 4 out of 5 in terms of tension, and setting the slipper to a medium-ish starting point, the car is good to go. No more driveline drag or skipping rear belt.
Thanks again for the feedback.
After swapping the front and rear diffs for good measure (in case there is any wear on the rear diff case teeth), installing a new rear belt, setting the rear belt to what is a 4 out of 5 in terms of tension, and setting the slipper to a medium-ish starting point, the car is good to go. No more driveline drag or skipping rear belt.
Thanks again for the feedback.
10-20-2018, 05:35 AM
#291
Tech Apprentice
I had the screw back off as well and rub the spur. After a couple of runs re-loctite all the screws. Make sure you do the 4 screws that hold the steering servo in as well. I can’t believe how many of mine backed out and I used lots of loctite while building.
10-21-2018, 06:30 PM
#292
Dirt guy's! How is the l1 working in the dirt of all types?
10-24-2018, 10:32 AM
#293
Tech Rookie
The car works great on dirt. However, I would suggest getting the S2 shock towers if your track has good sized jumps. The extra rebound (arm droop) that you get when the buggy is in the air helps out tremendously with landings.
I've run mine on dirt and prepped dirt tracks and it works great. Great steering, level through the air, etc. The car has ultra smooth shocks, highly adjustable suspension settings, and easy weight balance changes through simple battery positioning. Also, the body alone does an exceptional job of keeping dirt out of the car and belts. No worries there. By 1/10 scale buggy standards, the car is pretty durable too.
I've run mine on dirt and prepped dirt tracks and it works great. Great steering, level through the air, etc. The car has ultra smooth shocks, highly adjustable suspension settings, and easy weight balance changes through simple battery positioning. Also, the body alone does an exceptional job of keeping dirt out of the car and belts. No worries there. By 1/10 scale buggy standards, the car is pretty durable too.
10-24-2018, 04:09 PM
#294
The car works great on dirt. However, I would suggest getting the S2 shock towers if your track has good sized jumps. The extra rebound (arm droop) that you get when the buggy is in the air helps out tremendously with landings.
I've run mine on dirt and prepped dirt tracks and it works great. Great steering, level through the air, etc. The car has ultra smooth shocks, highly adjustable suspension settings, and easy weight balance changes through simple battery positioning. Also, the body alone does an exceptional job of keeping dirt out of the car and belts. No worries there. By 1/10 scale buggy standards, the car is pretty durable too.
I've run mine on dirt and prepped dirt tracks and it works great. Great steering, level through the air, etc. The car has ultra smooth shocks, highly adjustable suspension settings, and easy weight balance changes through simple battery positioning. Also, the body alone does an exceptional job of keeping dirt out of the car and belts. No worries there. By 1/10 scale buggy standards, the car is pretty durable too.
10-24-2018, 04:13 PM
#295
Dirt is pretty good with the car. I did get some grit in the rear diff teeth on my last meet ( really got crushed in there too, had a hard time scraping it off). But that's the one out of 4 meets times I've driven it and I suspect it was due to a dusty rollover I did off line.
11-02-2018, 05:13 PM
#296
I know this isnt L1 related, but I thought it might be specific to 4wd with a 13.5 Gforce Xtreme motor. I just got my Gforce motor analyzer and I havent put it down for the last 3 hours. Love this thing. been reading alot on the forums as I know next to squat about this, and I know gearing is probably most important, but gearing aside, do you guys normally go for a specific amp range?
Some say running 2.5 amps is good. some say keep it around 5 amps? I know temperatures come into play (and again gearing), but: loudness is 85 decibels and:
@29' timing: KV=3546 RPM=28K I=3.2 V=7.9
@36 KV=3962 RPM = 31K I= 5.2 V=7.8
I = amps.... all other variables like gearing aside, somewhere in the middle?
Also, I am looking for more torque (and I know this unit doesnt measure torque unfortunately. that was pointed out in an old thread)so if given a choice, a lower timing range is better. Is there an amp level that is a LOWEST you would ever run?
Dont want to derail the thread, so just some PM's or short answer would be great.
Some say running 2.5 amps is good. some say keep it around 5 amps? I know temperatures come into play (and again gearing), but: loudness is 85 decibels and:
@29' timing: KV=3546 RPM=28K I=3.2 V=7.9
@36 KV=3962 RPM = 31K I= 5.2 V=7.8
I = amps.... all other variables like gearing aside, somewhere in the middle?
Also, I am looking for more torque (and I know this unit doesnt measure torque unfortunately. that was pointed out in an old thread)so if given a choice, a lower timing range is better. Is there an amp level that is a LOWEST you would ever run?
Dont want to derail the thread, so just some PM's or short answer would be great.
Last edited by mdl060374; 11-02-2018 at 05:41 PM.
