Propchecku37

iTrader: (68)

I'm thinking about the Kashima shocks for the L1/ are they that bennificial or more of a hey look what I bought/have on my buggy??

Typpo

Thank you for posting the link. Are the dog bone sections of the front and rear L1 driveshafts the same lengths as the K2 equivalents?

Did the rear diff housing maintain the same spacing as the K2 and how much wider is the spacing of the front diff housing?

CruiseM

I doubt that the Kasima body bring a big performance upgrade.The contact patch of the Piston is very small.

Rear dogbones are labelled 63.50 and are direct swap.Front dogbones are shorter,but the axle is longer.

Diff with has not changed but it uses the smaller diameter diff from the KC.

Cruise

Roken

Well possibly the last available kit in the US arrived on my step. Good news looks like my old Losi wheels will fit. The only clay setup I see in the manual is from the Worlds. Who is this Michal guy, any good?

scoobyrs25

iTrader: (1)

Seriously? Orlowski is on fire in Europe. Go to Redrc.net. At the top left is a link to EOS (European Off Road series) Watch the final event A2. Pretty exciting race with Schumacher dominance. I'm guessing the axles are too big for your Losi wheels. Just hog them out a bit.

peakman

iTrader: (12)

I started with the kit setup and it is not suited for our tracks here and with Tony's help I have been working on an outdoor clay setup on an 8th scale size track. Due to the poor weather we are having the last 2 weeks, which includes this weekend I havent had a chance to further test any more changes.

Roken

And I was kidding about M.O., he's great. I'm going to start with my old 22-4 indoor set-ups and see how it goes from there.

Typpo

scoobyrs25

iTrader: (1)

The K2 has a 25.5mm wide diff housing and the L1 is 31.5mm.

Typpo

Roken

To those that have built this kit. Do you find excess slop side to side in the top shaft? The shaft that the spur is on.

Aaron P

iTrader: (3)

Yes, my top shaft has some play in it. I took it apart three times to make sure I had everything right.

chrispattinson

During the build there is some side to side play. This reduces when you have the car fully assembled with tension on the belts. It won't detract form the transmission performance at all, the shaft runs on perfectly on the bearings and maintains a consistent mesh. There is no detrimental effect due to the small amount of side to side play. Also you can be confident any thermo expansion in parts will be accommodated.

Roken

I don't understand steps 18 and 23. When do you use the ball stud washer and not just a normal ball stud washer. Of all the ball stud washers only four are steel. So those must be the special ones and I used one of those at each captive rod end. And why do they show putting all those ball stud washers under the nut.

Mopar

The extra ball stud washers are so when you change them you don't have to look for them in your box. That is the max per ball stud w/o going to a longer one. Mainly it's a convenience.