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Top 2WD/4WD Buggy for loose dirt conditions

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Top 2WD/4WD Buggy for loose dirt conditions

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Old 02-26-2018, 12:04 PM
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Lightbulb Top 2WD/4WD Buggy for loose dirt conditions

As the title states, I'm open to opinions on the best 1/10 cars for loose dirt conditions. In recent years, it seems cars are being manufactured for more medium grip--astro/carpet conditions with the middle of the road being a high grip track (indoor clay running Dirt Web like tire to slicks).

Local track is indoor, but it's loose/dusty conditions. I've attached a small pic of a portion of the track I'm describing, table top 180, take a look and you'll see what I mean. I'm curious if the newly released mid motor 2WD cars "can work" or if one should be on the hunt for an older model car. The 4WD might not be as crucial as a 2WD but I'm sure there's a 4WD buggy that shines in loose dirt conditions.

NOTE: I'm aware there's no SET answer, everyone is entitled to an opinion and each post is exactly that, no arguments... I'm simply asking for options from those with experience in various different cars with similar racing conditions. I've been around the hobby for years, I know the cars, etc; however, haven't owned a cars for a few years. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks in Advance!
Attached Thumbnails Top 2WD/4WD Buggy for loose dirt conditions-tabletop-corner.jpg  
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:36 PM
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As for 4WD, any of the options with a center diff should work pretty good. 2WD is more difficult to judge, because the layout of the track will be decisive for laptimes. Also, the driver's/mechanic's set-up knowledge will play a substantial role. While an old-school rear motor buggy will be easier to set-up and drive in such conditions, mid-motor and even lay-down cars in most cases will be faster through many types of corners (except hairpins that require a point-and-shoot driving style) and jump better. Whatever 2WD car, a buttery smooth ball-diff IMHO will be crucial, gear diffs and loose ground don't go together in 2WD cars.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:40 PM
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They’re all fine and all can be adjusted for different conditions.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:48 PM
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Obviously track layouts are subject to change, but as of now there's mainly 90 degree turns (5) and 2 ish 180's. I'm familiar with XXX-BK up to the 22 3.0 but track conditions from those times to now have changed dramatically. That's why I'm asking if I should get a new MM car with far superior shocks and start throwing weight at it to get the traction needed or if a RM car might actually be the ticket.
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:16 PM
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Gota say the D413 or the D216 is for that kind of traction or med traction i know with the D413 using the carbon chassis its good on it i mean without to much tuning or out of the box.
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Old 02-26-2018, 02:26 PM
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I thought d216 had a gear diff? Is there a ball diff available for the d216? I'd rather have the ball diff for anything less then dry astro.
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Old 02-26-2018, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by racingnewb View Post
I thought d216 had a gear diff? Is there a ball diff available for the d216? I'd rather have the ball diff for anything less then dry astro.


Not the current D216 but it’s setup for that kind of traction and dirt and you use 1000k in the gear diff people i know drive them and saw them on the track says it’s fine with it .
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:13 PM
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I'm new to 2wd buggy I bought both a D216 and a B6D to see which I liked. I run on an outdoor super loose track. After spending some time with both, I gotta say the D216 is a bit better. I am running an aluminum chassis on it and has the base set up.
I have tried quite a few different recommended setups on the B6 and it barely seems to have much impact on the handling.
So, best to say that if your not good at tuning or if you want to have a better shot at getting a car to handle in poor conditions, go with the D216. Im not saying the B6 handles bad, in fact it handles great. Just, I can't seem to get it to turn the lap times the D216 turns. And i am running a 7.5t in the B6 and a 13.5t in the D216. Plus right now new D216's kits are about $160. And it comes with a lot of aluminum parts that are upgrades on a B6.
Downsides to the D216: the shocks aren't quite as plush and it doesn't have as quiet of a drive train as the B6. The D216 is a little easier to wrench on it and it has some cool design features like the monocoque swingarms. I have broke two rear outer tier of ends but I designed and 3d printed a sleeve that seems to have stopped that problem. Others have said that using a longer turnbuckle cures the problem. On the B6, I haven't broke any parts.
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:41 PM
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A 4wd will always be best in low traction. For 2 wheel I have been running a 22 4.0 in laydown configuration with great success on wet dirt with the stock set up. All I did was add some weight and change the springs and oil. I run the aluminum camber block and ball stud mount with 14g on the servo and I run a brass C mount. I'm pretty dialed. As far as springs go, I run grey/white associated fronts and green associated rears and 27.5 & 25 oil. All the set up is by the book using the inner vla on the front. Its outstanding on relatively low traction wet dirt. It seems like the 22 4.0 works everywhere with the same exact set up with only changes to the oil/springs. The B5M also worked great in low traction conditions.
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Old 02-26-2018, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dhc8guru View Post
I gotta say the D216 is a bit better. I am running an aluminum chassis on it and has the base set up.
Why did you decide to get the alum chassis? Are you running the Exotek or HB Chassis?
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dhc8guru View Post
And i am running a 7.5t in the B6 and a 13.5t in the D216.
That is the biggest reason you're doing better lap times with the D216. A 7.5 is an expert's motor on high-traction conditions. I imagine that that much motor would be almost unmanageable on a lower traction surface.

FYI, there is also a 4-gear transmission for the B6 that should improve grip on lower traction surfaces
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:55 AM
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I was just about to say that. The fact you are close in lap times with the B6 to me says its actually handling way better then the HB, the B6 is just way over powered
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:27 PM
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Hi mate, the newer cars are definitely worth getting for these conditions. I race in lower grip a lot down here in Australia and the mid motor cars are faster than rear motor due to their ability to carry such good corner speed. Its very rare to see a rear motor car here. Standup style mid motor is most common - laydown gives very fast corner speed but there is a window of traction below which they lose lap time as they run out of forward traction. When the B5M came out here we spent a lot of time back-to-back testing with the B5 rear motor, and the 5M was faster (or at least as fast) in every track condition.

The latest 4wds are just plain faster, tougher and easier to drive than the older models.

There are some setup changes usually required from kit for lower traction though. Generally some brass weights for the rear in really low grip, softer springs, more droop, higher ride height. In the case of the AE B6, I have made a setup guide for these conditions. The car is really fast in all conditions we run.

Ask Ray Munday - JConcepts, Reedy, Associated Aussie Support Thread


I also run a facebook page for help with driving / setup in these kind of conditions. Its new and Im still uploading content, but feel free to check it out.
https://www.facebook.com/AskRayMundayRC/

Ray
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Old 03-01-2018, 02:24 AM
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Mid motor even on very low bite bump loose dirt. I run on these type conditions all outdoor season and mid motor is much better. 4wd pretty much any of the available platforms as it’s personal preference, yes even the belt wheelers kick on super low bite bumpy conditions.
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:41 PM
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Your pic looks like hard packed dirt.
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