1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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05-25-2019, 08:12 PM
#2836
Ok thanks guys I have the nova lockout and I got pucks but I am gonna put the stock axles back in and the gear diff. Now another question I have a Tekin Spec 3 17.5 or run a Team Scream 17.5 I had the guy at the local shop tell me the team screm motor will crap on the Tekin SPec 3 ? also anythiung else thats a must ? I have titanium everything pretty much what about tires what are the best?for turf
05-26-2019, 03:31 PM
#2837
With a direct drive system, your ball diff will suffer for sure. If you are running 17.5 only and switch to a slipper, you may be able to get some decent runtime out of your ball diff and pucks, but a standard drive train is better suited to such (very) high-grip surfaces. Adding the Schelle Nova would be a good compromise , it is lighter than the AE slipper.
05-28-2019, 05:44 AM
#2838
Anti roll bars on bumpy Astro
I have used the kit setup on bumpy astro with anti roll bars and went down to v1 red front sprints and v1 white rears. I notice that a lot of astro setup do away with the anti roll bars and have the v2 red springs.
Am I missing something, but is my thinking that using the roll bar to control roll let's you use a lighter springs over a bumpy surface. I can get carpet when there are no bumps you can up the spring to control roll as there are no bumps to consider. I appear to be out of step, what am i missing?
Am I missing something, but is my thinking that using the roll bar to control roll let's you use a lighter springs over a bumpy surface. I can get carpet when there are no bumps you can up the spring to control roll as there are no bumps to consider. I appear to be out of step, what am i missing?
05-29-2019, 05:30 AM
#2839
Tech Master
I have used the kit setup on bumpy astro with anti roll bars and went down to v1 red front sprints and v1 white rears. I notice that a lot of astro setup do away with the anti roll bars and have the v2 red springs.
Am I missing something, but is my thinking that using the roll bar to control roll let's you use a lighter springs over a bumpy surface. I can get carpet when there are no bumps you can up the spring to control roll as there are no bumps to consider. I appear to be out of step, what am i missing?
Am I missing something, but is my thinking that using the roll bar to control roll let's you use a lighter springs over a bumpy surface. I can get carpet when there are no bumps you can up the spring to control roll as there are no bumps to consider. I appear to be out of step, what am i missing?
Hope this explanation helps;
Springs control fore/ aft weight transfer and thus the on/off power balance of the car, also bump handling & ultimate tire loading (obviously they effect other areas too but for the sake of simplicity...)
ARBs control the change in roll stiffness as the car rolls, in extreme cases they can limit the maximum roll angle but normally the springs & roll centres have stepped in before this point
Roll centres control the transfer of weight / load across the axle (+ camber gain, whether the raises or lowers ride height in roll and so many other things)
Kick-up / antis-quat control fore-aft weight transfer
How's that for an over simplification!!!!!
How to tune track side for astro...
You will find that you find the "balance" in the car from the springs and will rarely change these once you have found what you like (B64 we typically run RED/BLUE V2 springs, B6.1 we typically run RED/WHITE V2 springs).
Next is Kickup / anti-squat, that is a similar story, once you find what you like you'll not shift much as your driving style dictates how you like the weight to transfer (typically we run 25deg / 1deg on the B6.1, B64 often sees a wider range across drives but typically 8deg/2deg as you want the 4wd to stay flatter). Only time I personally change anti-squat is if the rear end is kicking up over bumps, reducing antis-quat helps there or if I want extra rotation (say on very high grip astro/carpet) where increasing anti-squat helps.
SO ... ARBs and roll centre ....
Normally if we want to shift the balance of the car slightly we tune with one or both of these.
If we want an end of the car to feel like it has slightly more BITE then we will raise roll centre, if we want less BITE or a smoother car dropping the roll centre does that for us.
If we want an end of the car to drop grip off as it is loaded, say to make the front push a fraction from mid to exit on high grip or the rear to rotate more freely through the end of the turn increasing the ARB thickness that end .... opposite to achieve the opposite (typically for B64 we run RED/YELLOW, B6.1 we don't run ARBs other than very occasionally a thin one on the front to calm the car or thick rear on carpet to release the rear and increase steering)
The problem with stiff ARBs is if the track is bumpy (all UK tracks are bumpy ... apart from Southport, you could play pool on Southport) you find the car "follows" the surface which makes it harder to drive and less stable.
Have a look on the CML distribution site for Team Setups .... you'll find a lot from the UK guys there, myself included, based on decades of experience of astro
05-29-2019, 05:59 AM
#2840
Exotek Slipper Eliminator
Does anyone know if the stock b6.1 spur will fit the Exotek slipper Eliminator?
05-29-2019, 06:51 AM
#2841
Most of the UK team, where bumpy astro is the only thing we race on, run both ARBs and V2 springs.
Hope this explanation helps;
Springs control fore/ aft weight transfer and thus the on/off power balance of the car, also bump handling & ultimate tire loading (obviously they effect other areas too but for the sake of simplicity...)
ARBs control the change in roll stiffness as the car rolls, in extreme cases they can limit the maximum roll angle but normally the springs & roll centres have stepped in before this point
Roll centres control the transfer of weight / load across the axle (+ camber gain, whether the raises or lowers ride height in roll and so many other things)
Kick-up / antis-quat control fore-aft weight transfer
How's that for an over simplification!!!!!
How to tune track side for astro...
You will find that you find the "balance" in the car from the springs and will rarely change these once you have found what you like (B64 we typically run RED/BLUE V2 springs, B6.1 we typically run RED/WHITE V2 springs).
Next is Kickup / anti-squat, that is a similar story, once you find what you like you'll not shift much as your driving style dictates how you like the weight to transfer (typically we run 25deg / 1deg on the B6.1, B64 often sees a wider range across drives but typically 8deg/2deg as you want the 4wd to stay flatter). Only time I personally change anti-squat is if the rear end is kicking up over bumps, reducing antis-quat helps there or if I want extra rotation (say on very high grip astro/carpet) where increasing anti-squat helps.
SO ... ARBs and roll centre ....
Normally if we want to shift the balance of the car slightly we tune with one or both of these.
If we want an end of the car to feel like it has slightly more BITE then we will raise roll centre, if we want less BITE or a smoother car dropping the roll centre does that for us.
If we want an end of the car to drop grip off as it is loaded, say to make the front push a fraction from mid to exit on high grip or the rear to rotate more freely through the end of the turn increasing the ARB thickness that end .... opposite to achieve the opposite (typically for B64 we run RED/YELLOW, B6.1 we don't run ARBs other than very occasionally a thin one on the front to calm the car or thick rear on carpet to release the rear and increase steering)
The problem with stiff ARBs is if the track is bumpy (all UK tracks are bumpy ... apart from Southport, you could play pool on Southport) you find the car "follows" the surface which makes it harder to drive and less stable.
Have a look on the CML distribution site for Team Setups .... you'll find a lot from the UK guys there, myself included, based on decades of experience of astro
Hope this explanation helps;
Springs control fore/ aft weight transfer and thus the on/off power balance of the car, also bump handling & ultimate tire loading (obviously they effect other areas too but for the sake of simplicity...)
ARBs control the change in roll stiffness as the car rolls, in extreme cases they can limit the maximum roll angle but normally the springs & roll centres have stepped in before this point
Roll centres control the transfer of weight / load across the axle (+ camber gain, whether the raises or lowers ride height in roll and so many other things)
Kick-up / antis-quat control fore-aft weight transfer
How's that for an over simplification!!!!!
How to tune track side for astro...
You will find that you find the "balance" in the car from the springs and will rarely change these once you have found what you like (B64 we typically run RED/BLUE V2 springs, B6.1 we typically run RED/WHITE V2 springs).
Next is Kickup / anti-squat, that is a similar story, once you find what you like you'll not shift much as your driving style dictates how you like the weight to transfer (typically we run 25deg / 1deg on the B6.1, B64 often sees a wider range across drives but typically 8deg/2deg as you want the 4wd to stay flatter). Only time I personally change anti-squat is if the rear end is kicking up over bumps, reducing antis-quat helps there or if I want extra rotation (say on very high grip astro/carpet) where increasing anti-squat helps.
SO ... ARBs and roll centre ....
Normally if we want to shift the balance of the car slightly we tune with one or both of these.
If we want an end of the car to feel like it has slightly more BITE then we will raise roll centre, if we want less BITE or a smoother car dropping the roll centre does that for us.
If we want an end of the car to drop grip off as it is loaded, say to make the front push a fraction from mid to exit on high grip or the rear to rotate more freely through the end of the turn increasing the ARB thickness that end .... opposite to achieve the opposite (typically for B64 we run RED/YELLOW, B6.1 we don't run ARBs other than very occasionally a thin one on the front to calm the car or thick rear on carpet to release the rear and increase steering)
The problem with stiff ARBs is if the track is bumpy (all UK tracks are bumpy ... apart from Southport, you could play pool on Southport) you find the car "follows" the surface which makes it harder to drive and less stable.
Have a look on the CML distribution site for Team Setups .... you'll find a lot from the UK guys there, myself included, based on decades of experience of astro
I will keep an eye out for tram lining in future, it is currently set up for grass (no anti roll bars etc) so might try and run it like that initially on astro then compare with the anti roll bars. I did run my mates car that had the same spring but no anti roll bar - as the corner speed slowed it tended to hook the front wheel in and made it a little unpredictable at the apex. Moving the front shocks out at the bottom sorted this but at the expense of making the front even stiffer. Will need to play around and see how light I can go.
05-29-2019, 06:51 AM
#2842
05-29-2019, 12:54 PM
#2844
05-29-2019, 03:19 PM
#2845
They have their pros and cons, the exotek can use stock topshaft so you can switch between slipper and lockout easier. The AE uses stock spurs which is nice. The Schelle one is also nice because their slipper and lockout both use the stock topshaft and their slipper is better.
05-29-2019, 06:00 PM
#2846
Anybody have this issue? I just switched from dirt to carpet and both me and a buddy have been experiencing the steering block getting a crack across the center . You don’t notice it till you flex the wheel , then the crack opens up. We are both A Main drivers so I don’t think it’s from crashing. FYI . I have never crashed , not once , ever. .lol
05-29-2019, 06:32 PM
#2847
Tech Addict
It's a known issue and they released a new batch of them with a different part number.
05-29-2019, 08:30 PM
#2848
If you can find a B6 spindle will also fit.
05-29-2019, 09:12 PM
#2849
Anybody have this issue? I just switched from dirt to carpet and both me and a buddy have been experiencing the steering block getting a crack across the center . You don’t notice it till you flex the wheel , then the crack opens up. We are both A Main drivers so I don’t think it’s from crashing. FYI . I have never crashed , not once , ever. .lol
05-30-2019, 01:21 AM
#2850
Anybody have this issue? I just switched from dirt to carpet and both me and a buddy have been experiencing the steering block getting a crack across the center . You don’t notice it till you flex the wheel , then the crack opens up. We are both A Main drivers so I don’t think it’s from crashing. FYI . I have never crashed , not once , ever. .lol