1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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05-13-2019, 01:01 PM
#2776
I’ve found this asked in this thread with no replies, but has anyone tried Vision Racing Products shock pistons in their B6.1? My local track is misted, damp indoor clay, but it ends up being very high bite (slicks or primes) with lots of small divots and bumps. I’m thinking I could thicken up the oil to avoid rolling, but maintain grip with the rebound being fast. Any experience?
05-13-2019, 07:43 PM
#2778
So I need a B6.1 for my indoor clay track I have a factory lite looking for a second buggy should I do the new DL limited edition that’s coming out or just do a B6.1D this is for stock racing thanks guys I am new to this .
05-14-2019, 07:42 AM
#2780
Only real differences between the original 6.1D and the new DL kit is the gearbox, rear shock bodies, and front steering arms. The DL has the laydown transmission, shorter rear shock bodies (and matching shock tower), and the +1 arms. The 6.1D has the layback, tall shock bodies/tower, and 0 arms. Higher traction and smoother tracks will favor the DL while lower traction and rougher will favor the 6.1D.
05-14-2019, 01:10 PM
#2781
For you, the DL makes a bit more sense.
Only real differences between the original 6.1D and the new DL kit is the gearbox, rear shock bodies, and front steering arms. The DL has the laydown transmission, shorter rear shock bodies (and matching shock tower), and the +1 arms. The 6.1D has the layback, tall shock bodies/tower, and 0 arms. Higher traction and smoother tracks will favor the DL while lower traction and rougher will favor the 6.1D.
Only real differences between the original 6.1D and the new DL kit is the gearbox, rear shock bodies, and front steering arms. The DL has the laydown transmission, shorter rear shock bodies (and matching shock tower), and the +1 arms. The 6.1D has the layback, tall shock bodies/tower, and 0 arms. Higher traction and smoother tracks will favor the DL while lower traction and rougher will favor the 6.1D.
05-14-2019, 02:02 PM
#2783
05-15-2019, 06:53 AM
#2785
05-15-2019, 01:30 PM
#2786
Is anyone running this car in a 21.5T spec class on clay? Seems the local track is pushing for that to be the new sportsman motor. I run mine box stock above the ROAR weight minimum with a 17.5T s-plus (non torque version) and it is fine.
What would be the lowest cost upgrade to help with the loss of power, Slipper delete?
Edit - my vote would be to stay 17.5T sportsman class but I dont race often so my vote doesnt really count... so just buying a 21.5T motor would not be that big of a deal I guess.
What would be the lowest cost upgrade to help with the loss of power, Slipper delete?
Edit - my vote would be to stay 17.5T sportsman class but I dont race often so my vote doesnt really count... so just buying a 21.5T motor would not be that big of a deal I guess.
05-15-2019, 01:43 PM
#2787
Is anyone running this car in a 21.5T spec class on clay? Seems the local track is pushing for that to be the new sportsman motor. I run mine box stock above the ROAR weight minimum with a 17.5T s-plus (non torque version) and it is fine.
What would be the lowest cost upgrade to help with the loss of power, Slipper delete?
Edit - my vote would be to stay 17.5T sportsman class but I dont race often so my vote doesnt really count... so just buying a 21.5T motor would not be that big of a deal I guess.
What would be the lowest cost upgrade to help with the loss of power, Slipper delete?
Edit - my vote would be to stay 17.5T sportsman class but I dont race often so my vote doesnt really count... so just buying a 21.5T motor would not be that big of a deal I guess.
You could also try to adjust your setup to get more speed and better jumping characteristics like decreasing rear toe and increasing anti-squat.
05-15-2019, 08:57 PM
#2788
What would you gear that 21.5 at?
05-15-2019, 11:19 PM
#2789
IMHO sportsman should not need all those upgrades at all. If you want to get new blood into the hobby, lower costs and less power will help for sure. The other day, one of our club members borrowed a B6.1 with a Surpass 17.5 to race mod on wet astroturf, and he was faster down the straight than some of the mod guys without pulling the trigger completely. In Germany, stock racing is 10.5 4wd and 13.5 2wd, and our NORC fun, hobby and newbie class is 17.5. We are contemplating to initiate the switch to the US motor winds, and going 21.5 for fun/hobby if you use a motor newer than a date TBD. Things have moved forward a lot in the last few years.
Gearing depends on the motor and the track a lot. For the modern cars, a wide range of spurs and pinions are available, so switching to 21.5 should be no biggie.
Gearing depends on the motor and the track a lot. For the modern cars, a wide range of spurs and pinions are available, so switching to 21.5 should be no biggie.
05-16-2019, 02:13 AM
#2790