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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 06-15-2018, 11:11 AM
  #1321  
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I am in process of learning on setting up my car and i have this question
Hope someone is willing to share their knowledge



The default setting for rear hub insert is “0”
What is the effect if i change the insert to “1”, “2” or “3”?
Will a higher position of rear hub change the rear grip characteristic?
Thanks for sharing
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:20 AM
  #1322  
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Originally Posted by donnie_p
I am in process of learning on setting up my car and i have this question
Hope someone is willing to share their knowledge



The default setting for rear hub insert is “0”
What is the effect if i change the insert to “1”, “2” or “3”?
Will a higher position of rear hub change the rear grip characteristic?
Thanks for sharing
The primary reason to use that adjustment is to keep the arms/CVA bone/turnbuckles at the same angle to the ground while lowering the ride height of the car. 0 is the most common setting for dirt tracks or really rough astro tracks where you set the ride height of the car around 20-23mm. As the track gets smoother and higher traction, lower ride heights like 15-18 are used. Instead of just adjusting the springs on the shocks to lower the ride height, it is better to use the axles to make the adjustment.

When you just use the springs, the arms/CVAturnbuckles end up sloping from the hub down to the chassis, which really alters the roll center and camber gain characteristics. Instead, to lower the car from a rough offroad track to a smooth carpet one you would use the #3 pill, flip the rear hub link insert to lower the upper ball stud in the hub, and add the +3 pill to the differential. Those three things (hub insert, adjusting the ball stud on the hub, and moving the diff up) will keep the geometry the same while lowering the car. In the front, you'll want to play with the adjustment shims built into the hub carriers to match.
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:20 AM
  #1323  
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When running at lower ride heights, you will want to raise the hubs and diff to maintain proper roll center setting and driveshaft angle.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:56 AM
  #1324  
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Originally Posted by Scott R
Look at the hobbywing v3.1 they're the same price as the 1000z and have more programming options, and can handle to a 5.5 turn motor.
I run them in all my buggies
Thanks, I took your advice the hobbywing 3.1 should arrive today along with the program box. Now I just have to get a radio and will be all set. Thinking about the futaba 3pv. Thanks for your help!
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:22 AM
  #1325  
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Originally Posted by donnie_p
I am in process of learning on setting up my car and i have this question
Hope someone is willing to share their knowledge



The default setting for rear hub insert is “0”
What is the effect if i change the insert to “1”, “2” or “3”?
Will a higher position of rear hub change the rear grip characteristic?
Thanks for sharing
Lowering the bottom hinge pin and creating a larger distance between the top pivot and the bottom pivot will raise the rear roll centre. This is used when the grip is high like astro and also had the effect of lowering the car.
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:28 AM
  #1326  
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Are the b5 front wheel hex the same as the b6 ones? Except for the material used? As i want steel ones instead of aluminum
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Old 06-18-2018, 04:55 AM
  #1327  
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Originally Posted by E-Mann
As a follow up. I received the 6.1 standard rear tower. As I predicted there isn't much difference in the B6 and 6.1 tower. The B6 tower is about 1.5mm taller at the shock mounts. Pictures attached showing the difference. I will be using the 6.1 tower but would say if you are converting B6 to 6.1 it is not 100% necessary as long as you increase droop/ stroke at least 1mm to compensate.
Bottom holes do not align.
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Old 06-18-2018, 05:11 AM
  #1328  
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Default B6 to B6.1 conversion





It seems that there is enough room to drill B6 C mount holes in the B6.1 chassis




Old slipper assembly fits perfectly into the new gearbox, there is 1mm side to side movement. Perfect fit seems to be 0.5mm washer on each side.


B6 shock tower bottom holes do not align new gearbox



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Old 06-18-2018, 06:00 AM
  #1329  
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just buy a b6.1
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:06 AM
  #1330  
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Originally Posted by lexusbest




It seems that there is enough room to drill B6 C mount holes in the B6.1 chassis




Old slipper assembly fits perfectly into the new gearbox, there is 1mm side to side movement. Perfect fit seems to be 0.5mm washer on each side.


B6 shock tower bottom holes do not align new gearbox



what are you looking at money and time wise.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:21 AM
  #1331  
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1

what are you looking at money and time wise.
Convert a B6 to a B6.1 as cheap as possible
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:35 AM
  #1332  
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Originally Posted by lexusbest
Convert a B6 to a B6.1 as cheap as possible
but why ? Just sell the b6 and buy a b6.1.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:38 AM
  #1333  
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I retrofitted a 6.1D transmission onto my B6. Had to drill 4x new holes. The two for the transmission didn't go very well but it works. I also found that the B6 slipper self-locates once tightened. Don't forget the .5mm washers between the motor plate and the transmission housing if you don't use the spur-gear guard and DO NOT forget to use the suggested 10mm (9mm would be even better) screws to mount the transmission. Anything longer will distort the transmission case and lock up the idler gear. I believe this is a root cause of binding on the stock car. 10mm might still be a hair too long
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Old 06-18-2018, 12:17 PM
  #1334  
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Originally Posted by Davidka
I retrofitted a 6.1D transmission onto my B6. Had to drill 4x new holes. The two for the transmission didn't go very well but it works. I also found that the B6 slipper self-locates once tightened. Don't forget the .5mm washers between the motor plate and the transmission housing if you don't use the spur-gear guard and DO NOT forget to use the suggested 10mm (9mm would be even better) screws to mount the transmission. Anything longer will distort the transmission case and lock up the idler gear. I believe this is a root cause of binding on the stock car. 10mm might still be a hair too long
The chassis is not the same. B6.1 is a tiny bit shorter. It just doesn't make sense to convert. You'd have to spend way too much money to get it the same as the new car. And the new car feels way better, so it's definitely worth to get. I sold my old b6d as a roller and took off some nicer upgrade parts and sold those separate. New car ended up being just over 50 bucks. I figure it's gotta be at least 200 to properly convert.
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Old 06-18-2018, 01:39 PM
  #1335  
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Originally Posted by buggybattle


but why ? Just sell the b6 and buy a b6.1.
not that easy in spain
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