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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 08-30-2018, 06:59 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday):

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Old 05-09-2018, 08:50 PM
  #1111  
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Here is my new fan mount location. I think I like this better .

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Old 05-09-2018, 11:25 PM
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This is using half of the exotek mount
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Old 05-10-2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
so is the fan sticking out of the body? Did you cut your body for this? What body are you using?
I'll post some body on pics later today, my older B6 S2 body fit perfect along with the stock body. It looks like Phillip F has a found good location as too!
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Here is my new fan mount location. I think I like this better .

2 fans NOT Roar legal and Why?.......
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Your So Factory View Post
2 fans NOT Roar legal and Why?.......
i don't race ROAR sanctioned races.
Because this is a hobby and its fun to tinker and try out things.
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Old 05-10-2018, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
doesn't matter which color idler gear. It will strip with the AE Factory Direct Drive. .. especially 13.5 in carpet
The Schelle lockout works. and it's the same price.
The AE direct drive doesn't even work with 17.5 on clay. The Schelle is the only way to go.
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Old 05-10-2018, 05:55 PM
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I'm going to shim the exotek top shaft for now. Anyway, the issue I think is slop in the transmission along with the poor mesh.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeO View Post
I'm going to shim the exotek top shaft for now. Anyway, the issue I think is slop in the transmission along with the poor mesh.
I agree. I used top shaft with a cut down gear and a cut down idler gear in my 17.5 b6 on carpet and turf with zero issues. Took two packs to kill idler gear on my 6.1.
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:52 PM
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So I installed the MIP puck system since I run 17.5. After setting the diff and all, I notice that the button head screws were touching the rear camber link. The diff rotates perfectly fine and the pins no longer rub. Anyone else notice this?
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Old 05-10-2018, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeO View Post
I'm going to shim the exotek top shaft for now. Anyway, the issue I think is slop in the transmission along with the poor mesh.
show us pics how you are doing it.
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:47 AM
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I see so many complicated looking fan installs so here's mine..just cut out a slot in the side guard so the fan sits down onto the chassis and secured with 3m tape and being on the chassis it leans in slightly..easy.
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by malcnz View Post
I see so many complicated looking fan installs so here's mine..just cut out a slot in the side guard so the fan sits down onto the chassis and secured with 3m tape and being on the chassis it leans in slightly..easy.
thats how i mounted mine too.
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:34 AM
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I know to be competitive in the 17.5 class you have to add a fan because you max the timing out on your motor, you over charge your batteries, and people go bat schitt crazy with all the cut gears, and lightweight titanium, I like to make my stuff last as long as possible, I moderately time the motor normally charge the battery, and cut weight where I can but do not run titanium parts to save weight. I have fun driving it. I am a older guy so my reactions are not as fast as some, and I have only raced a buggy over this past winter racing series, which I ended up finishing in the top 10. I am competitive but mainly just between myself and my brother, does anyone else just do it for the fun and the enjoyment of getting out and being around friends? or is everyone else go ballz to the wall with this stuff.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by daveb View Post
So I installed the MIP puck system since I run 17.5. After setting the diff and all, I notice that the button head screws were touching the rear camber link. The diff rotates perfectly fine and the pins no longer rub. Anyone else notice this?
Mine aren't touching, but they're close. I'm only using the +1 diff height adjustment on mine...looks like if I tried to use more than that, it may push it up a little further and cause it to touch the rear camber mount. Are you using any diff height adjustment on yours?

Last edited by gswart44; 05-11-2018 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
I know to be competitive in the 17.5 class you have to add a fan because you max the timing out on your motor, you over charge your batteries, and people go bat schitt crazy with all the cut gears, and lightweight titanium, I like to make my stuff last as long as possible, I moderately time the motor normally charge the battery, and cut weight where I can but do not run titanium parts to save weight. I have fun driving it. I am a older guy so my reactions are not as fast as some, and I have only raced a buggy over this past winter racing series, which I ended up finishing in the top 10. I am competitive but mainly just between myself and my brother, does anyone else just do it for the fun and the enjoyment of getting out and being around friends? or is everyone else go ballz to the wall with this stuff.
I primarily race on astro and usually only 17.5 because there isnt a mod class. I use no lightweight drivetrain stuff and just use quality bearings in the transmission (schelle) and some titanium bits here and there (screws, turnbuckles). I run a fan because ambient temp in the summer is 100+, track temp can get into the 140-150 range....ridiculous. I am not a fan of pucks because they take away rear traction, I have never been a fan of a slipper eliminator as well. I charge at 10 amps to 8.4v. Do what works for you and what gets you the most enjoyment. There was a race a could months ago (maybe crcrc?) where AE was posting info on charge rates and what not...the guy who tq'd stock buggy was charging at 10 amps to like 8.3v. Majority of the time the better driver will beat out the guy that has a $1000+ roller who charges at 70 amps.
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