1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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05-05-2018, 09:25 PM
#1081
So for those who race carpet using 13.5 T and want that acceleration and punch to clear jumps and gnarly transfers.
this (Schelle B6.1 lockout)... works and doesn't' chew up idler gears. It's perfect for carpet. I raced it at SCVRC tonight with brand new tires with no problems.
The fan location shown in the pic gave me 144F after 6 minute main. ...... BEC voltage in esc was set at 7.4V
I saw someone at the pits with a really thin 30MM fan. He had it mounted with a double sided tape near the C mount and barely touching the clutch spring/shaft.
Maybe someone can find this fan.
this (Schelle B6.1 lockout)... works and doesn't' chew up idler gears. It's perfect for carpet. I raced it at SCVRC tonight with brand new tires with no problems.
The fan location shown in the pic gave me 144F after 6 minute main. ...... BEC voltage in esc was set at 7.4V
I saw someone at the pits with a really thin 30MM fan. He had it mounted with a double sided tape near the C mount and barely touching the clutch spring/shaft.
Maybe someone can find this fan.
05-06-2018, 12:29 AM
#1082
Tech Adept
So for those who race carpet using 13.5 T and want that acceleration and punch to clear jumps and gnarly transfers.
this (Schelle B6.1 lockout)... works and doesn't' chew up idler gears. It's perfect for carpet. I raced it at SCVRC tonight with brand new tires with no problems.
The fan location shown in the pic gave me 144F after 6 minute main. ...... BEC voltage in esc was set at 7.4V
I saw someone at the pits with a really thin 30MM fan. He had it mounted with a double sided tape near the C mount and barely touching the clutch spring/shaft.
Maybe someone can find this fan.
this (Schelle B6.1 lockout)... works and doesn't' chew up idler gears. It's perfect for carpet. I raced it at SCVRC tonight with brand new tires with no problems.
The fan location shown in the pic gave me 144F after 6 minute main. ...... BEC voltage in esc was set at 7.4V
I saw someone at the pits with a really thin 30MM fan. He had it mounted with a double sided tape near the C mount and barely touching the clutch spring/shaft.
Maybe someone can find this fan.
05-06-2018, 06:13 AM
#1083
Tech Initiate
Some body know where i can get the kashima front shock bodys? Are impossible to find it, why??
05-06-2018, 09:28 AM
#1084
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
Just some quick findings from my race yesterday on super dusty loose dirt outside with 17.5. Started the day with the standup conversion and shocks in front of the rear arms. Car felt just as good as the other cars on the track, ended up TQ. For the main I got a wild hair and converted the car back to the layback configuration. I won the main with it like that. I was running JConcepts rips up front and Goosebumps in back if that is any indication of the track conditions. Here is my assessment of the two configurations: The layback was more balanced in the air and jumped and landed better. It also had slightly less turn in entering corners and slightly less bite when exiting corners. However it was faster through chicanes without losing traction. Where the standup excelled was harder turn in and more traction on power exiting corners. But you could tell there was more swing weight. Both configurations had their pro's and con's, but for me the layback advantages are too great to ignore along with the disadvantages being slight in comparison to the standup. I am going to keep it layback and save the standup parts to use on a new T6.1 or SC6.1. Hope this helps anybody who was on wondering how standup would feel with shock on the front.
Last edited by speed90; 05-06-2018 at 09:32 AM. Reason: added photo
05-07-2018, 02:34 AM
#1085
Just some quick findings from my race yesterday on super dusty loose dirt outside with 17.5. Started the day with the standup conversion and shocks in front of the rear arms. Car felt just as good as the other cars on the track, ended up TQ. For the main I got a wild hair and converted the car back to the layback configuration. I won the main with it like that. I was running JConcepts rips up front and Goosebumps in back if that is any indication of the track conditions. Here is my assessment of the two configurations: The layback was more balanced in the air and jumped and landed better. It also had slightly less turn in entering corners and slightly less bite when exiting corners. However it was faster through chicanes without losing traction. Where the standup excelled was harder turn in and more traction on power exiting corners. But you could tell there was more swing weight. Both configurations had their pro's and con's, but for me the layback advantages are too great to ignore along with the disadvantages being slight in comparison to the standup. I am going to keep it layback and save the standup parts to use on a new T6.1 or SC6.1. Hope this helps anybody who was on wondering how standup would feel with shock on the front.
05-07-2018, 06:31 AM
#1086
Raced my 6.1D first time Saturday, it was not a points race so I played around with tires and gearing. I was box setup 100% running 17.5 with 72/32 gearing but I had seen several people I think on here or another page saying they run 69/29 so I ran 2 heats with the 72 and 1 and the main with the 69 with me not getting a lot of track time to be good enough to know if there was a real difference or not it seemed about the same to me, maybe slightly smoother with the 69/29 Could someone please explain the differences in doing this, and is there any real advantages in one over the other. and I am not one of the guys who over gears, and ups the timing high on the motor or over charges my batteries. I really loved the buggy no matter which gearing I had it it and the manual said 22/22 on ride height I thought it was kind of soft so I ran it a little higher at 23/23 I was not traction rolling at all and had no issues with it 1mm higher and I tend to go into the corners harder and deeper than most. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
05-07-2018, 06:47 AM
#1087
Raced my 6.1D first time Saturday, it was not a points race so I played around with tires and gearing. I was box setup 100% running 17.5 with 72/32 gearing but I had seen several people I think on here or another page saying they run 69/29 so I ran 2 heats with the 72 and 1 and the main with the 69 with me not getting a lot of track time to be good enough to know if there was a real difference or not it seemed about the same to me, maybe slightly smoother with the 69/29 Could someone please explain the differences in doing this, and is there any real advantages in one over the other. and I am not one of the guys who over gears, and ups the timing high on the motor or over charges my batteries. I really loved the buggy no matter which gearing I had it it and the manual said 22/22 on ride height I thought it was kind of soft so I ran it a little higher at 23/23 I was not traction rolling at all and had no issues with it 1mm higher and I tend to go into the corners harder and deeper than most. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
05-07-2018, 06:58 AM
#1088
hello! I can not see wiki b6.1d thanks
05-07-2018, 09:16 AM
#1091
Just some quick findings from my race yesterday on super dusty loose dirt outside with 17.5. Started the day with the standup conversion and shocks in front of the rear arms. Car felt just as good as the other cars on the track, ended up TQ. For the main I got a wild hair and converted the car back to the layback configuration. I won the main with it like that. I was running JConcepts rips up front and Goosebumps in back if that is any indication of the track conditions. Here is my assessment of the two configurations: The layback was more balanced in the air and jumped and landed better. It also had slightly less turn in entering corners and slightly less bite when exiting corners. However it was faster through chicanes without losing traction. Where the standup excelled was harder turn in and more traction on power exiting corners. But you could tell there was more swing weight. Both configurations had their pro's and con's, but for me the layback advantages are too great to ignore along with the disadvantages being slight in comparison to the standup. I am going to keep it layback and save the standup parts to use on a new T6.1 or SC6.1. Hope this helps anybody who was on wondering how standup would feel with shock on the front.
05-07-2018, 09:52 AM
#1092
So just to follow up a few things I've read in this thread.. On high traction astro I've stripped two idlers with the new Associated lock out in 17.5. I think the width they made the new lock out top shaft gear is just to thin for high traction. I run aluminum axles, lightweight machined stub axles, plastic Xray diff gears, Xray spur and a plastic 175 pinion. 4 of those things I would imagine should break or strip before an idler should! I'm hoping it is a problem with the new lock out top shaft and not a run of bad idlers.
I used to run cut idlers to no issue on Astroturf in my Kyosho. Never stripped an idler before in my life before this car
I used to run cut idlers to no issue on Astroturf in my Kyosho. Never stripped an idler before in my life before this car
05-07-2018, 12:22 PM
#1093
So just to follow up a few things I've read in this thread.. On high traction astro I've stripped two idlers with the new Associated lock out in 17.5. I think the width they made the new lock out top shaft gear is just to thin for high traction. I run aluminum axles, lightweight machined stub axles, plastic Xray diff gears, Xray spur and a plastic 175 pinion. 4 of those things I would imagine should break or strip before an idler should! I'm hoping it is a problem with the new lock out top shaft and not a run of bad idlers.
I used to run cut idlers to no issue on Astroturf in my Kyosho. Never stripped an idler before in my life before this car
I used to run cut idlers to no issue on Astroturf in my Kyosho. Never stripped an idler before in my life before this car
05-07-2018, 12:38 PM
#1094
Suspended
iTrader: (1)
Finally got it almost ready for the track other than the wing and a few other small things to wrap up. going racing Saturday with it for the first time, racing indoors clay dirt mix, med to high bite going to be running 17.5 any setup suggestions to start with or just go from box setup.
Your Welcome.
05-07-2018, 02:51 PM
#1095
So what’s the consensus - does the grey B6 idler gear fix the stripping issue w/lockout, or are people still stripping the grey gears too?