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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

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Old 04-17-2018, 10:29 AM
  #781  
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Did a comparison of the B6 front Ballstud Mount (91655), and the B6.1 Front ballstud mount (91766) and they're the same (unless they're different plastic types or something). Only the latter comes packaged with the Top plate too.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:10 AM
  #782  
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Just finished my B6.1. The plastics are amazing..the buggy has no slop whatsoever...... I heard AE is using a different parts mfg now.... good for them they found a good one.
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Old 04-17-2018, 12:12 PM
  #783  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
Just finished my B6.1. The plastics are amazing..the buggy has no slop whatsoever...... I heard AE is using a different parts mfg now.... good for them they found a good one.
Let's not get too generous just yet. It's been less than a week so I doubt people have enough time to slop it out.
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Old 04-17-2018, 12:35 PM
  #784  
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Originally Posted by fircrest
What would be a good 17.5 motor for this buggy? I've been using a Reedy M3 but have been thinking of switching to at Tekin Gen 3 or Reedy S-Plus in the near future.
The S-Plus is supposed to be a great option, and as it has been sold out in different windings time and again, I am willing to believe it!
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Old 04-17-2018, 12:39 PM
  #785  
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B6.1D Indoor Clay Setup OCRC

Here's what I've run at OCRC after a few test sessions. I added some notes on the bottom for some other options to run. The Layback gearbox needs a little different rear end setup on the hubs /axle height as it's got a bit more weight in the back. I also added my own design rear tower that lowers the CG and has more droop. For kit towers just go to long eyelets and it's a similar effect but higher CG.
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Old 04-17-2018, 04:58 PM
  #786  
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Originally Posted by kdub


B6.1D Indoor Clay Setup OCRC

Here's what I've run at OCRC after a few test sessions. I added some notes on the bottom for some other options to run. The Layback gearbox needs a little different rear end setup on the hubs /axle height as it's got a bit more weight in the back. I also added my own design rear tower that lowers the CG and has more droop. For kit towers just go to long eyelets and it's a similar effect but higher CG.
bevel up or down?
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Old 04-17-2018, 05:02 PM
  #787  
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Originally Posted by Mason
Let's not get too generous just yet. It's been less than a week so I doubt people have enough time to slop it out.
well my B6 had slop even when I finished buidling it...didn't even ran it yet. The plastic feels cheap too compared to the new one.
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Old 04-17-2018, 05:33 PM
  #788  
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Originally Posted by Scott R
Did a comparison of the B6 front Ballstud Mount (91655), and the B6.1 Front ballstud mount (91766) and they're the same (unless they're different plastic types or something). Only the latter comes packaged with the Top plate too.
From what I can see it does look like a different plastic, I do injection moulding, the side rails are stiffer than the std B6 ones too and a new mould.
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GSM Storm
From what I can see it does look like a different plastic, I do injection moulding, the side rails are stiffer than the std B6 ones too and a new mould.
Factory Driver told me AE contracted a different manufacturer in Asia. The plastics are really good compared to the B6 plastics.
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
Factory Driver told me AE contracted a different manufacturer in Asia. The plastics are really good compared to the B6 plastics.
They switched from China to Taiwan, which is where most of the other manufacturers make their stuff. Not sure if the plastics will hold up, but I think QC seems better at the new factory and at least the initial tolerances are better IMO.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:19 PM
  #791  
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Yes there’s time and racing to see how the plastics hold up. I do have to say however the kit went together perfectly and I’m looking forward to racing it now. Great job TeamAE
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AZguy
Is anyone having an issue with getting the transmission to run smoothly? I seem to have some interference with the top plate that goes on the diff. With the diff sitting in the case without the to on it spins smooth. When I screw the top on I am getting a rub/catch somewhere when I spin the gears and can't seem to locate the issue. I haven't built a B6 before so maybe there is some break in trick I am not aware of.
I've spoken with a few people who have had this issue, you have to make sure that the alloy camber link bracket is correctly located on the ridge it sits on in the gearbox casing, this effectively aligns the rear of the gearbox case and thus the diff mounting area.

What I did with success, along with many others in the UK I've advised, is the following procedure;

Assemble the gearbox case halves as per the instructions but only gently nip up the 2 screws that go in from the side
Fit the camber link bracket into place and gently nip down the single centre screw
Back off the 2 side screws
Gently twist, wriggle or tap the gearbox case assembly so it can find the perfect alignment, you will notice the rear camber link bracket engage a little further
Tighten the 2 side screws down fully (but not too tight)
Nip the central screw on the camber link bracket down

You will find that the gearbox runs perfectly smooth now.

Additional tip .... the bearings are REALLY hard to get on to the new diff case, you really have to make sure they are fully seated as there is no free play side-side of the diff in the new case. If the bearings aren't on fully it will distort the height adjuster inserts very slightly which can also cause a bind.

Hope that helps.

For those running on Astroturf I now have my starting setups on Petit RC, I'm convinced there is more to come from both B6.1 & B6.1D but I am really happy with the cars as per those setups. Regional championship race on Sunday so I guess I'll find out then.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerM
I've spoken with a few people who have had this issue, you have to make sure that the alloy camber link bracket is correctly located on the ridge it sits on in the gearbox casing, this effectively aligns the rear of the gearbox case and thus the diff mounting area.

What I did with success, along with many others in the UK I've advised, is the following procedure;

Assemble the gearbox case halves as per the instructions but only gently nip up the 2 screws that go in from the side
Fit the camber link bracket into place and gently nip down the single centre screw
Back off the 2 side screws
Gently twist, wriggle or tap the gearbox case assembly so it can find the perfect alignment, you will notice the rear camber link bracket engage a little further
Tighten the 2 side screws down fully (but not too tight)
Nip the central screw on the camber link bracket down

You will find that the gearbox runs perfectly smooth now.

Additional tip .... the bearings are REALLY hard to get on to the new diff case, you really have to make sure they are fully seated as there is no free play side-side of the diff in the new case. If the bearings aren't on fully it will distort the height adjuster inserts very slightly which can also cause a bind.

Hope that helps.

For those running on Astroturf I now have my starting setups on Petit RC, I'm convinced there is more to come from both B6.1 & B6.1D but I am really happy with the cars as per those setups. Regional championship race on Sunday so I guess I'll find out then.
Thanks for the tip. After messing with it I did seem to narrow in on the diff slightly wobbling when I rotated it so did a very round about way to get to same place this suggested procedure does. It does seem there are a couple ways you can get the case slightly out of alignment and will mess with the diff gear alignment. I almost want to just remove the center screw they use on the link brace since it seems to want to separate the case.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:21 AM
  #794  
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Good to know, Roger! Allow me to translate for our American brothers and sisters who might have a hard time with the Queen's English: Don't gorilla wrench the diff case!
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:29 AM
  #795  
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With a lot of others getting building and running their buggies already, I am glad that I paid Amain extra for shipping on mine to get it faster only for it to actually take longer to get, than a order with free shipping that was shipped a day later and getting it in 3 days vs a week for the buggy. But at least this way I can see all these good tips and such people have been posting.
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