Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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#3796
Tech Addict
iTrader: (105)
If one shock is longer is could be the shock end as stated above (make sure they are the same size and threaded the same amount on both sides. It could also be the ‘shock spacers’ inside of the shocks. Many setups use some ‘spacers/washers inside the shock body that limit down travel.
#3797
I'm struggling with a slippy slipper and would like to have opinions.
The car is an RC10 B6.1 with 10.5T motor on astro-turf.
This sunday, after 2 years of moderate use (around 80 hours), the slipper started to increase slipping. I had to tight the compression spring, but very quickly the car slipped more and more.
Finally the car was no more able to power on jump slopes, and the slipper noise started to sound as stripped gear noise.
I disassembled the full transmission and found nothing :
- Motor and Spur gears ok
- 2 Slipper pads ok, thickness 1 mm
- 2 Slipper hub plates ok with little marks at interface
- laydown Top shaft ok with little marks at interface
- idler gear ok
- Gear case diff ok
- 2 Sun gears (metal) diff ok
- 4 Planet gears (metal) diff ok
- no metal particles in diff oil
I re-assembled everything with 5K oil in the diff, wanted to setup the slipper (rear wheels blocked, tune for front wheels lift), but instead of front wheel lift, I had the gear noise.
So I'm a little lost, with gear noise and no gear stripped...During disassembly, findings all gears ok, I was convinced to find diff internal gears stripped but they look also ok.
What can it be ? Any similar experience ? Can it be the slipper hub plates rotating on top shaft ?!?
Thanks in advance,
The car is an RC10 B6.1 with 10.5T motor on astro-turf.
This sunday, after 2 years of moderate use (around 80 hours), the slipper started to increase slipping. I had to tight the compression spring, but very quickly the car slipped more and more.
Finally the car was no more able to power on jump slopes, and the slipper noise started to sound as stripped gear noise.
I disassembled the full transmission and found nothing :
- Motor and Spur gears ok
- 2 Slipper pads ok, thickness 1 mm
- 2 Slipper hub plates ok with little marks at interface
- laydown Top shaft ok with little marks at interface
- idler gear ok
- Gear case diff ok
- 2 Sun gears (metal) diff ok
- 4 Planet gears (metal) diff ok
- no metal particles in diff oil
I re-assembled everything with 5K oil in the diff, wanted to setup the slipper (rear wheels blocked, tune for front wheels lift), but instead of front wheel lift, I had the gear noise.
So I'm a little lost, with gear noise and no gear stripped...During disassembly, findings all gears ok, I was convinced to find diff internal gears stripped but they look also ok.
What can it be ? Any similar experience ? Can it be the slipper hub plates rotating on top shaft ?!?
Thanks in advance,
#3798
I'm struggling with a slippy slipper and would like to have opinions.
The car is an RC10 B6.1 with 10.5T motor on astro-turf.
This sunday, after 2 years of moderate use (around 80 hours), the slipper started to increase slipping. I had to tight the compression spring, but very quickly the car slipped more and more.
Finally the car was no more able to power on jump slopes, and the slipper noise started to sound as stripped gear noise.
I disassembled the full transmission and found nothing :
- Motor and Spur gears ok
- 2 Slipper pads ok, thickness 1 mm
- 2 Slipper hub plates ok with little marks at interface
- laydown Top shaft ok with little marks at interface
- idler gear ok
- Gear case diff ok
- 2 Sun gears (metal) diff ok
- 4 Planet gears (metal) diff ok
- no metal particles in diff oil
I re-assembled everything with 5K oil in the diff, wanted to setup the slipper (rear wheels blocked, tune for front wheels lift), but instead of front wheel lift, I had the gear noise.
So I'm a little lost, with gear noise and no gear stripped...During disassembly, findings all gears ok, I was convinced to find diff internal gears stripped but they look also ok.
What can it be ? Any similar experience ? Can it be the slipper hub plates rotating on top shaft ?!?
Thanks in advance,
The car is an RC10 B6.1 with 10.5T motor on astro-turf.
This sunday, after 2 years of moderate use (around 80 hours), the slipper started to increase slipping. I had to tight the compression spring, but very quickly the car slipped more and more.
Finally the car was no more able to power on jump slopes, and the slipper noise started to sound as stripped gear noise.
I disassembled the full transmission and found nothing :
- Motor and Spur gears ok
- 2 Slipper pads ok, thickness 1 mm
- 2 Slipper hub plates ok with little marks at interface
- laydown Top shaft ok with little marks at interface
- idler gear ok
- Gear case diff ok
- 2 Sun gears (metal) diff ok
- 4 Planet gears (metal) diff ok
- no metal particles in diff oil
I re-assembled everything with 5K oil in the diff, wanted to setup the slipper (rear wheels blocked, tune for front wheels lift), but instead of front wheel lift, I had the gear noise.
So I'm a little lost, with gear noise and no gear stripped...During disassembly, findings all gears ok, I was convinced to find diff internal gears stripped but they look also ok.
What can it be ? Any similar experience ? Can it be the slipper hub plates rotating on top shaft ?!?
Thanks in advance,
#3799
Thanks to Shawn for the valuable input.
After finding a slightly (hidden) unplugged sensor wire on ESC side and replugged, the car was able to lift the front wheels during slipper set-up process.
It needs to be confirmed on track, but it makes sense, the "gear noise" without gear stripped + power vanished seems to be motor cogging.
Thanks again !
After finding a slightly (hidden) unplugged sensor wire on ESC side and replugged, the car was able to lift the front wheels during slipper set-up process.
It needs to be confirmed on track, but it makes sense, the "gear noise" without gear stripped + power vanished seems to be motor cogging.
Thanks again !
#3800
New skid for B6.1/B6.1D
Good morning boys! After several months begging Tworks to build a skid for the B6 platform they have finally done so. I am sure that for many of you it will be great news and I wanted to share it so that you know.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4319/dkR4Eb.jpg
All the best!
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4319/dkR4Eb.jpg
All the best!
#3802
I'm sorry guys if it is mentioned earlier, but for some reason the in-thread-search shows me nothing when searching for 'top', 'shaft' or 'top shaft'.
My top shaft has gone shark tooth and took the idler gear to heaven with it. Is there an option for a steel top shaft for the layback / laydown gear as opposed to the aluminium one from the kit?
thanks in advance!
My top shaft has gone shark tooth and took the idler gear to heaven with it. Is there an option for a steel top shaft for the layback / laydown gear as opposed to the aluminium one from the kit?
thanks in advance!
#3803
Honestly I'd just grab new parts. How many years did these parts last?
Just check all your transmission bearings, check the housing for damage and make sure when you put it back together everything is tight and not going to wear the new parts out.
I actually had a similar failure in my b6.2d. I had a carbon fiber idler gear shaft that reduced weight (big deal) but also was slightly tighter tolerance. And it was $2 so I had it, but it was about 3 years old and was in 3-4 transmissions. It died and ruined a case and the idler gear and top shaft. Put new parts in and smooth transmission again.
Just check all your transmission bearings, check the housing for damage and make sure when you put it back together everything is tight and not going to wear the new parts out.
I actually had a similar failure in my b6.2d. I had a carbon fiber idler gear shaft that reduced weight (big deal) but also was slightly tighter tolerance. And it was $2 so I had it, but it was about 3 years old and was in 3-4 transmissions. It died and ruined a case and the idler gear and top shaft. Put new parts in and smooth transmission again.
#3804
In total time it's 4 years old (got my kit NIB in May 2018), but due to covid and weather (outdoor clay track) I only took 20 runs or so in the last two years - so not too much.
My B5 never had the issue over 4 years constantly racing... so I'm a bit disappointed a part doesn't last as long for a price of 20$.
I'm the second person in my club with this problem out of 3 owning a B6.x and weight isn't an issue so I would have liked to have the option for steel, but I guess I'll go with the original part if there's no steel option available.
Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated I will check the parts you mentioned and take a good look if everything is smooth when reassembling.
I will also disassemble and check the gear box of my SC6.1 as well, just in case...
My B5 never had the issue over 4 years constantly racing... so I'm a bit disappointed a part doesn't last as long for a price of 20$.
I'm the second person in my club with this problem out of 3 owning a B6.x and weight isn't an issue so I would have liked to have the option for steel, but I guess I'll go with the original part if there's no steel option available.
Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated I will check the parts you mentioned and take a good look if everything is smooth when reassembling.
I will also disassemble and check the gear box of my SC6.1 as well, just in case...
Last edited by Hasi; 04-25-2022 at 02:12 AM.
#3805
Well some times I put 10+ runs on a practice day and my b6.2 is over a year old I don't know how thats the case. And I still have my b6.2d from when it launched. Sounds like in a typical month I put more laps on my 2w than you have since you got it.
I currently run white lithium grease but I know a fast team driver that runs things completely dry and even after 6-8 months of running every weekend its still looks fine. I actually noticed my idler issue after the grease turned black 2 weeks in a row, and then I opened it to find all those damaged parts. I also run on all high grip surfaces, which would put more wear on gears. It certainly does wear out outdrives and axles every 3 or 4 months.
I haven't looked for a steel to shaft option but it might exist with drag racing options. But even so I wouldn't recommend it just to reduce wear as most people don't have issues. I have seen aluminum and possibly steel idlers, but I dont know if you have a stand up or layback or 3 or 4 gear transmission. But again, most people don't have issues so you shouldn't need it.
I currently run white lithium grease but I know a fast team driver that runs things completely dry and even after 6-8 months of running every weekend its still looks fine. I actually noticed my idler issue after the grease turned black 2 weeks in a row, and then I opened it to find all those damaged parts. I also run on all high grip surfaces, which would put more wear on gears. It certainly does wear out outdrives and axles every 3 or 4 months.
I haven't looked for a steel to shaft option but it might exist with drag racing options. But even so I wouldn't recommend it just to reduce wear as most people don't have issues. I have seen aluminum and possibly steel idlers, but I dont know if you have a stand up or layback or 3 or 4 gear transmission. But again, most people don't have issues so you shouldn't need it.
#3806
I usually put 15+ runs on a practice day on the track but I run all my Associated cars since I enjoy driving them all. Unfortunately I can only drive two times a month and only on weekends, so you're probably right
I guess I was just unlucky - I run the original clear Asso grease which the manual states and in my SC6.1 the gears look like freshly build.
I use the layback with 3 gears since the StandUp wasn't really a big improvement when I compared mine with the B6.1D with Standup from another driver. Parts are ordered and I will check more often so it doesn't happen again.
I guess I was just unlucky - I run the original clear Asso grease which the manual states and in my SC6.1 the gears look like freshly build.
I use the layback with 3 gears since the StandUp wasn't really a big improvement when I compared mine with the B6.1D with Standup from another driver. Parts are ordered and I will check more often so it doesn't happen again.
#3807
I have a b6.1 roller set up for carpet and found an awesome hobby shop that has a few kits available and wondering which newer kit is compatible with the b6.1 so I can have something similar to interchange parts without having to upgrade to the b6.4. Trying to save a few bucks as I am just a hobby racer not looking to win championships lol.
#3808
I have a b6.1 roller set up for carpet and found an awesome hobby shop that has a few kits available and wondering which newer kit is compatible with the b6.1 so I can have something similar to interchange parts without having to upgrade to the b6.4. Trying to save a few bucks as I am just a hobby racer not looking to win championships lol.
RC10B6 Builders Support | Associated Electrics
#3809
Basically all the parts are swappable from b6.1 to b6.3 and lots of the suspension parts are swappable between those and the 6.4.
Although I don't recommend 6.1s for high grip dirt and carpet. The .2 rear arms and hubs are much more consistent and easier to drive. To convert to the newer arms is pretty easy, you just have to grind 1 or 2 mm off the front of the hubs and get 69mm dog bones and 75mm arms. Then to convert to the .3/.4 back end the c and d blocks need replaced.
At this point it'll be cheaper to buy a 6.2 or 6.3 used. Yes I realize the 6.1 will be cheap, but the newer cars are much better and youll get much more help with setup and all the normal racing stuff. And the .2s are super cheap. I know, I've been too lazy to list mine because of the low prices. I should though, I can turn that into carpet tires.
Although I don't recommend 6.1s for high grip dirt and carpet. The .2 rear arms and hubs are much more consistent and easier to drive. To convert to the newer arms is pretty easy, you just have to grind 1 or 2 mm off the front of the hubs and get 69mm dog bones and 75mm arms. Then to convert to the .3/.4 back end the c and d blocks need replaced.
At this point it'll be cheaper to buy a 6.2 or 6.3 used. Yes I realize the 6.1 will be cheap, but the newer cars are much better and youll get much more help with setup and all the normal racing stuff. And the .2s are super cheap. I know, I've been too lazy to list mine because of the low prices. I should though, I can turn that into carpet tires.
#3810
Basically all the parts are swappable from b6.1 to b6.3 and lots of the suspension parts are swappable between those and the 6.4.
Although I don't recommend 6.1s for high grip dirt and carpet. The .2 rear arms and hubs are much more consistent and easier to drive. To convert to the newer arms is pretty easy, you just have to grind 1 or 2 mm off the front of the hubs and get 69mm dog bones and 75mm arms. Then to convert to the .3/.4 back end the c and d blocks need replaced.
At this point it'll be cheaper to buy a 6.2 or 6.3 used. Yes I realize the 6.1 will be cheap, but the newer cars are much better and youll get much more help with setup and all the normal racing stuff. And the .2s are super cheap. I know, I've been too lazy to list mine because of the low prices. I should though, I can turn that into carpet tires.
Although I don't recommend 6.1s for high grip dirt and carpet. The .2 rear arms and hubs are much more consistent and easier to drive. To convert to the newer arms is pretty easy, you just have to grind 1 or 2 mm off the front of the hubs and get 69mm dog bones and 75mm arms. Then to convert to the .3/.4 back end the c and d blocks need replaced.
At this point it'll be cheaper to buy a 6.2 or 6.3 used. Yes I realize the 6.1 will be cheap, but the newer cars are much better and youll get much more help with setup and all the normal racing stuff. And the .2s are super cheap. I know, I've been too lazy to list mine because of the low prices. I should though, I can turn that into carpet tires.
Thanks... Yea I have a 6.1
The shop I think has a 6.3 that I was looking at getting bnb to support the local mom and pop shop but want to be sure I can keep the b6.1(interchangeable parts as needed... spare parts) up and running for a friend to come out with me and I can let them drive that. Looking at getting some friends into the hobby so I won't be lonely lol.