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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 08-30-2018, 06:59 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday):

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Old 03-31-2019, 05:12 AM
  #2611  
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I just got back into the fold after many years of being away from it. I decided on a 13.5 in my car shown just a couple of posts up. Watching Youtube videos they seem to be much faster than they used to be even with just a stock class 17.5. I have a feeling mine is going to be a rocket with they higher performance V10 G3 13.5 I installed. The other car (DEX210) I built has a Tekin Redline 8.5 in it, I built it a couple of years back but have not run it due to life getting in the way. I will be running it on an indoor track for the first time this morning. Interest in racing here in town has gone up again and a club has formed after many years of no interest in racing.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Super08 View Post
I just got back into the fold after many years of being away from it. I decided on a 13.5 in my car shown just a couple of posts up. Watching Youtube videos they seem to be much faster than they used to be even with just a stock class 17.5. I have a feeling mine is going to be a rocket with they higher performance V10 G3 13.5 I installed. The other car (DEX210) I built has a Tekin Redline 8.5 in it, I built it a couple of years back but have not run it due to life getting in the way. I will be running it on an indoor track for the first time this morning. Interest in racing here in town has gone up again and a club has formed after many years of no interest in racing.
Firstly, thanks for your reply, recommendation and the pics. I love the paintjob, i can never be able to do anything like that!
Do share more once you’ve run it and let me know if its flying out of control. You’re absolutely right, the motors that i used to play is nothing compared with the motors today...my aged-reflexes is partly to blame of course.
Looking forward to hear your valuable feedback.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by big ted View Post
Just picked up a used B6.1. Dunno what you guys are talking about 'easy access diffs.' 6 screws and still having to fiddle around with swaybars and shock towers to get everything out the way isn't exactly easy access in my view! [end grumble]
You don't have to remove the entire trans and open it up. Getting to the diff on the 5 series was a pain compared to the 6.1.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kenmtb View Post
Is there a durable servo like the savox 1258tg that does not have brown out issues? I currently use protek 100ss but they get out of whack after a while.
Ive never had an issue with a Savox 1258. I have one that is 6 years old and still running strong.
Is the protek overheating on you?
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:38 AM
  #2615  
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Originally Posted by robert890 View Post
Ive never had an issue with a Savox 1258. I have one that is 6 years old and still running strong.
Is the protek overheating on you?
Most likely BEC issues. Savöx are not most efficient units and need a strong ESC power supply. Installing a glitch capacitor can help if you don't want to switch brands.
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:59 AM
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Anyone have issues with the shock collars? Mine keep backing upwards from the force of the springs. I lose 1mm of rear ride height and half a mm of front each run. I have the o ring in place.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Devin View Post
Anyone have issues with the shock collars? Mine keep backing upwards from the force of the springs. I lose 1mm of rear ride height and half a mm of front each run. I have the o ring in place.
Could you post a pic of one of the collars?
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Krio View Post
Unless you are an extremely good driver, it's hard to take advantage of anything faster than an 8.5 turn motor in a 2wd buggy on a track. However, I'd go with a 10.5. You'll have plenty of power indoors and can add some boost for outdoors without changing the gearing, making it easy to jump between the two tracks.
I took your advice and while at my lhs today I saw the Trinity X Factor motors. I had them order me one in a 10.5.
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lexusbest View Post
check this out. Works awesome for me.
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...nster20180422/
Kidderminster is very bumpy, lots of surface transitions too.

That setup will still work well for a lot of tracks, I have of course kept working on it and now have something that I believe works as a good starting point everywhere.

I tend to tune from this as a start of each race day on any UK astro track. If the grip is there to support it I find that a gear diff with 10k and 2 gears is faster but I always start with a ball diff.

Hope that helps.


Attached Files
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by big ted View Post
Just picked up a used B6.1. Dunno what you guys are talking about 'easy access diffs.' 6 screws and still having to fiddle around with swaybars and shock towers to get everything out the way isn't exactly easy access in my view! [end grumble]
I can have a diff on the bench in less than 90 seconds, that is quick access!

The correct order is;

Remove to shock mount nut on non-spur side
Run out the single screw that runs across the gearbox split line
I run 2 holes in the wing so I don't have to remove it to get to the rear 2 screws .... if you don't then it's those 2 wing screws that need to be removed now.
Run out the 4 vertical screws
Fold the top section of the gearbox out of the way
Pull diff straight up and out.

OK I use a power screwdriver on lowest clutch setting to do the wrenching but even by hand it is only about twice as long.
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Old 04-01-2019, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Smokinn.babe View Post


Firstly, thanks for your reply, recommendation and the pics. I love the paintjob, i can never be able to do anything like that!
Do share more once you’ve run it and let me know if its flying out of control. You’re absolutely right, the motors that i used to play is nothing compared with the motors today...my aged-reflexes is partly to blame of course.
Looking forward to hear your valuable feedback.
I was out racing at the track with my DEX210 buggy and DESC210R SC truck yesterday. My B6.1 wasn't quite ready. Anyways the 8.5 is overkill for most tracks unless they are incredibly large. I have way more power than I could ever use on the majority of tracks. I took it out on my street after I got home and it is insane. I cannot even think about hitting full throttle until it is up to about 20 mph, then when I do punch it the car is gone up the street in a flash. I swear it has to be hitting 50 mph +. I would love to get a shot of it with my little radar gun. I just did the final set up on my B6.1 this morning and glued the tires. I am going to take it out on the street later today. From what I seen the 13.5 I put in my B6.1 should still have more power than most tracks can use.
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Super08 View Post
I was out racing at the track with my DEX210 buggy and DESC210R SC truck yesterday. My B6.1 wasn't quite ready. Anyways the 8.5 is overkill for most tracks unless they are incredibly large. I have way more power than I could ever use on the majority of tracks. I took it out on my street after I got home and it is insane. I cannot even think about hitting full throttle until it is up to about 20 mph, then when I do punch it the car is gone up the street in a flash. I swear it has to be hitting 50 mph +. I would love to get a shot of it with my little radar gun. I just did the final set up on my B6.1 this morning and glued the tires. I am going to take it out on the street later today. From what I seen the 13.5 I put in my B6.1 should still have more power than most tracks can use.
Try turning the motor timing down, lowers the torque and rpm and will make it easier to drive. There's no reason why you shouldn't be able to get your 8.5 to feel similar to a 13.5 or even a 17.5. I used a 7.5t in 2wd for a while and on the stock settings it was fast but turning the motor timing to 20°(from the stock 30°) made a huge difference and I could drive it hard again. Another thing to try is using slightly lower voltage like 8.2 so the initial punch on the battery is gone and much more consistent to race on. Motors come with the strongest rotor available and can be overkill unless you have a heavy buggy or really high grip. It's not uncommon to see drivers using weaker 12.1 or 12.3 rotors opposed to the oem 12.5 to tame down the torque and keep the wheels gripping. There can be too much, even for the best driver. Dustin Evan's has a great facebook live video covering his mod electronic setups and he said when he shows up to a very tight indoor track where he may want to motor down, instead of soldering in a new motor he will just drop motor timing down another 5-10° from 20° and lower the throttle EPA down to somewhere between 90-100%.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
Kidderminster is very bumpy, lots of surface transitions too.

That setup will still work well for a lot of tracks, I have of course kept working on it and now have something that I believe works as a good starting point everywhere.

I tend to tune from this as a start of each race day on any UK astro track. If the grip is there to support it I find that a gear diff with 10k and 2 gears is faster but I always start with a ball diff.

Hope that helps.
Thanks, I will look at that and consider parts of it after my first couple of runs.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by robert890 View Post
Ive never had an issue with a Savox 1258. I have one that is 6 years old and still running strong.
Is the protek overheating on you?
I have seen 6-8 fail in the last 6 months.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:53 AM
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This is a question about buggy tires, how many people if any used 2 sided tape and tape their inserts? I normally buy mine pre mounted because I absolutely hate gluing tires. But I went to a bigger race that a lot of the pro drivers were at and had a new set of tires delivered to the track because we was out of town for 5 day for that race and a buddy of mine glued them up for me was for my SC6.1 and he taped the inserts, and I really liked how my truck felt, but I was also on a completely new setup I have never tried so not sure if it was a combo of setup and taped inserts or what. I'm just a club racer so not sure if taping them makes a huge difference I would notice.
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