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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

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Old 08-30-2018, 06:59 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday):

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Old 02-16-2019, 12:11 AM
  #2431  
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Originally Posted by cbazq271 View Post
I run Exotec pins in puck bones with a gear diff. They do work great, but, the pin only last me three race nights before they start to wear a flat spot on the pins.
I agree with this. I ran them on my b64d with the mip bones and center diff, and while I understand 4wd puts more stress on the driveline, they wore much quicker than expected. Kind of unfortunate as it drove really well. Felt more connected on throttle with the pins while the pucks drive a little more free if that makes sense. The full puck setup is lighter and faster in a straight line but the pins have more bite in the corners on throttle. Some of this may have to do with the change in weight across the chassis from using all the steel outdrives instead of aluminum. Although there may be some setup settings I missed that benefit pins vs pucks and vice versa. I kept the rest of the setup unchanged when switching between the two. Maybe someone can chime in on what they've found to work well with one or the other.
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Old 02-16-2019, 07:56 PM
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Hi guys just curious, I''m having an issue with Ball studs snapping off in the rear aluminum ball stud mount. I'm running the carpet version and I know they take a beating, Just wondering if anyone else with this problem. TY
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadburn View Post
Hi guys just curious, I''m having an issue with Ball studs snapping off in the rear aluminum ball stud mount. I'm running the carpet version and I know they take a beating, Just wondering if anyone else with this problem. TY
Had that problem. So, I don't use the smaller (outer diameter) spacers provided in the kit. Associated has larger (outer diameter) spacers (.5, 1.0, 2.0mm) that help ballstuds stay tighter. Still have to use a small amount of locktite and check them regularly, Learned the spacers thing from the Losi 22 4.0 that I once had. It came with the larger diameter spacers in the kit.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-17-2019, 06:44 AM
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TY Bill, I have that problem with my SC6.1 also. Going to have to tech that after every race now. I've been using locktite. I just bought a set of titanium ball studs hoping they would last a bit longer.
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Roadburn View Post
TY Bill, I have that problem with my SC6.1 also. Going to have to tech that after every race now. I've been using locktite. I just bought a set of titanium ball studs hoping they would last a bit longer.
Best to go with stock steel ballstuds. Titanium will shear easier than steel IME. The stock ballstuds with the mentioned ballstud washers work great. You should't have any issues.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c31385/p637153
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:08 AM
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If I may suggest. Clean the threads on the ball stud and mount with brake cleaner. If you have a tap and die I would use it. Brake Clean it after that. Make sure it is dry. Then use loctite and let it set up long enough to dry. If that means over night do it. I would use the longest ball stud you can get. 10mm I believe. That way if it comes out the bottom you can get it out if it breaks.
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Old 02-18-2019, 11:39 AM
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I broke one right after I put the alum. rear hubs on my SC6.1 I think it had worked itself loose and sheared off right across the top, I care a carbide scribe with me and I was able to turn it right out. Every since then I just leave a allen wrench lay out and I check it after each run and have not had an issue since. not sure how the buggy compares to the SC I know they are different but on the truck you are limited on how long of a ball stud you can run and have to change the length depending on the spacers used because if they are to long they will go in and lock up the bearing, which makes me kind of leary of using lock tight on them. To expensive to break one and not be able to get the std out. I have a set ordered for my buggy so hope they are different and I can use the lock tight and still be able to get it out.
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Old 02-18-2019, 11:50 AM
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When using the aluminum rear hubs, I now put set screws in all the unused holes to prevent dirt from getting inside the hub. My lubrication and bearings last a lot longer.
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:19 PM
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Just curious, why do yíall run aluminum hubs? I havenít broken the plastic ones and have always run plastic since the B5. Is there some other reason? I try to keep my buggy light.
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:50 PM
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Finer adjustment of the ballstud height and durability.
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Last edited by trf211; 02-18-2019 at 04:49 PM.
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC View Post
Just curious, why do yíall run aluminum hubs? I havenít broken the plastic ones and have always run plastic since the B5. Is there some other reason? I try to keep my buggy light.
Finer adjustment capability, more durable, and slightly changes the way the car drives out of the corner. Iíve switched back and forth a bit on my B64 and canít notice any difference in how they drive on the 4wd, but I can notice the difference on the 6.1.

This might also be surprising, but the aluminum hubs really donít add weight either ó not more than a gram or two per side.
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:44 PM
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I was using the aluminum hubs for a while and the ball studs kept on backing out. going to probably reinstall them but clean them really good and then locktite over night. wish me luck. I had 4 mm of spacing on them but I am thinking I am going to go with 2mm spacing. I am running on indoor high bite clay.
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC View Post
Just curious, why do yíall run aluminum hubs? I havenít broken the plastic ones and have always run plastic since the B5. Is there some other reason? I try to keep my buggy light.
I run the plastic hubs too, but I broke 2x left ones in one race night. Anybody want to trade me a left for one of my extra rights? Ha ha!
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by smkd13 View Post
I was using the aluminum hubs for a while and the ball studs kept on backing out. going to probably reinstall them but clean them really good and then locktite over night. wish me luck. I had 4 mm of spacing on them but I am thinking I am going to go with 2mm spacing. I am running on indoor high bite clay.
From what I've heard threaded pieces can contain a film of oil from the manufacturer which makes threadlock ineffective. Cleaning all the threads will help a lot. Use large diameter ballstud shims if you aren't already. Tebo's RROC setup is good for clay tracks. http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...CRC2019012527/
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by trf211 View Post
From what I've heard threaded pieces can contain a film of oil from the manufacturer which makes threadlock ineffective. Cleaning all the threads will help a lot. Use large diameter ballstud shims if you aren't already. Tebo's RROC setup is good for clay tracks. http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...CRC2019012527/
thanks for the help man. Iíll clean them off and then try them again. It didnít matter how much threadlock or how tight I cinched then down they always came loose. Hope this solves my issue cause I liked using them
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