Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread >

Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

Like Tree655Likes

Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 08-30-2018, 06:59 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Kraig
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday):

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 02-11-2019, 04:55 PM
  #2416  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 170
Default

If your ballcups are tight in the turnbuckle you can use a drill to loosen up the plastic a little more. Put the turnbuckle in a drill and with grease on the threads, tighten and loosen the ballcup all the way several times. I built two identical kits, one with and one without the drill method and the kit without has the ballcups pops off anytime I try to adjust the rear camber link. You can also do this with a turnbuckle wrench and an allen key but it takes a little more patience.

The 6.1 rear camber link gets very tight when you shorten the link to the correct length. When the ballcup passes the last of the threads it forces the wider center section of the turnbuckle into the ballcup. The first few millimeters of the ballcup have to be spread slightly wider so it can fit the unthreaded section of the turnbuckle into it without binding up. Repeated threading and unthreading will help spread the ballcup to the right size.

Last edited by trf211; 02-11-2019 at 05:06 PM.
trf211 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2019, 05:47 PM
  #2417  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (83)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,257
Trader Rating: 83 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Maraach View Post
I used grease in the cup ends when I threaded them on, but didn't do anything else to the cup or stud. I did think to polish them but am now glad I didnt. Tightening down and loosening them seem a to make no difference. The slightest pressure on the turnbuckle and they will pop off. I've built several cars (3 xb4's, 2 b64's, 2 b6's) and never seen anything like it. I mean it's literally impossible for me to adjust a turnbuckle without using a hex in each ball stud to hold them in place (which is also stretching the cups) . It's like there is just a mismatch and either the ball studs are too small or the cups are too large. I'm just not sure which.
get a right hand and left hand tap. the tap cuts the threads better than ramming the rod in there.
Ridge Runner likes this.
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 12:37 AM
  #2418  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 105
Default

I've since found out a number experiencing the issue and it seems to be common on the New ball cups.

On another note any recommendation for a slipper for the b6.1 FL?
Maraach is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 01:13 AM
  #2419  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 146
Default

Use the LCF Slipper pads AE91197 as these are like the old slipper pads AE always used to use before the new white v2 slipper pads. I always have found the yellow coloured pads to be more consistent and install them in any car I have owned.
AmiSMB is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 04:00 AM
  #2420  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 105
Default

Originally Posted by AmiSMB View Post
Use the LCF Slipper pads AE91197 as these are like the old slipper pads AE always used to use before the new white v2 slipper pads. I always have found the yellow coloured pads to be more consistent and install them in any car I have owned.
Thanks for the tips I was curious about the off.

What about the avid or schelle slipper? Any views on them?
Maraach is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 11:02 AM
  #2421  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (83)
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 17,257
Trader Rating: 83 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Maraach View Post
Thanks for the tips I was curious about the off.

What about the avid or schelle slipper? Any views on them?
Schelle makes slipper plates to support the Avid/schelle gears.
Wildcat1971 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 12:47 PM
  #2422  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
Braxamus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 696
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

was wanting to buy these, bu seen it said they require the 67mm bone kit My B6.1D came with them. is there something I am missing or do I need something else to run these.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91760/p673016
Braxamus is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 01:01 PM
  #2423  
Tech Apprentice
 
Bassbuster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 88
Default

was wanting to buy these, bu seen it said they require the 67mm bone kit My B6.1D came with them. is there something I am missing or do I need something else to run these.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91760/p673016
Nope. Works fine on the 6.1 and 6.1D
Bassbuster is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2019, 08:00 PM
  #2424  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (48)
 
Jon Carlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,915
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
was wanting to buy these, bu seen it said they require the 67mm bone kit My B6.1D came with them. is there something I am missing or do I need something else to run these.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91760/p673016
The 6.1/6.1D come with 67mm bones.
Jon Carlson is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2019, 10:01 PM
  #2425  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Mi
Posts: 141
Default

Ok I have a 6.1 buggy, 2 sc6.1, t 6.1 all carpet but one sc, We are starting a 40 and up spec 21.5 buggy class. I'm thinking of doing the lite with the Exotec pins for the gear diff thoughts?
outoftouchrc is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2019, 10:12 PM
  #2426  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Mi
Posts: 141
Default

Originally Posted by Fearo View Post
I'm having a little trouble figuring something out...

I'd always run short/short shock eyelets but starting testing different combinations a few weeks ago and found out the long eyelets on the front shocks work better on my track.
But now I have a problem getting to the correct ride height (17mm for indoor astro). I can get to 17mm but that means screwing the shock collars so far out that there is a huge gap between the collar and the spring at full droop (probably 3-4mm).
How do I solve this? Running taller springs? I'm running the +5mm collars. I've already tried the +9mm collars, they remove the gap, but I can't get to 17mm with them.
The spring cups should not make any difference in ride height at all it will just move the spring up farther on the shock body no?
outoftouchrc is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2019, 08:46 AM
  #2427  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 60
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by outoftouchrc View Post
The spring cups should not make any difference in ride height at all it will just move the spring up farther on the shock body no?
Sure. But in turn that DOES effect it right one way or another.
Mxfrodo195 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2019, 03:44 PM
  #2428  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
socalcloin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: SD County
Posts: 140
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Edit - next post by trf211 makes more sense on how it will affect handling - but if you do not want that much droop you can still reduce the stroke.

I think for the issue Fearo is having, shouldn't it be an adjustment of shortening the stroke / shock travel? Like washers in the shocks?

If you get so much droop that the springs are free, the car won't land as nice I don't think.. Not that I have actually taken the time to set mine perfectly, but if it is that far off for carpet, it could be worth the effort for more precise landing.

Last edited by socalcloin; 02-15-2019 at 02:35 PM.
socalcloin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2019, 06:49 PM
  #2429  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 170
Default

My clay buggy has a loose front spring as well. If anything the additional droop past the springs length will help with landings. Even if the spring is not capable of absorbing the first few millimeters of suspension travel, the damping still can.

When the buggy is on the ground and shifting weight, you can see the spring gap only happens at full extension. On the front shock this equates to the same total possible pitch angle during weight shift however it takes more force to do so since the spring does not help at the end near full extension. When weight is shifted off the front in a heavy throttle section of track and you start to let off throttle to gain more steering and shift weight forward again, the initial suspension will be softer and reaction will feel slightly duller and more stable before it fully settles into the spring. Whereas a front suspension with no gap will respond more sudden upon letting the weight shift forward since there is spring preload at full extension. Not saying one way is better than the other, just what I've observed.
Braxamus and socalcloin like this.
trf211 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2019, 06:42 PM
  #2430  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 42
Default

Originally Posted by outoftouchrc View Post
Ok I have a 6.1 buggy, 2 sc6.1, t 6.1 all carpet but one sc, We are starting a 40 and up spec 21.5 buggy class. I'm thinking of doing the lite with the Exotec pins for the gear diff thoughts?
I run Exotec pins in puck bones with a gear diff. They do work great, but, the pin only last me three race nights before they start to wear a flat spot on the pins.
cbazq271 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service