6LikesHyper VS E
02-05-2018, 02:22 AM
#16
funny that it isn't actually on hobao's site...
02-05-2018, 11:27 AM
#18
ehm no, because hobao is the manufacturer in taiwan ! i think they probably have contracts with dealers like: i let you sell the PRO version, i sell the basic version on my E shop !
Last edited by werner sline; 02-05-2018 at 11:53 AM.
02-05-2018, 11:46 AM
#19
Contact Us | HoBao Enterprising
Originally Posted by HoBao
1765 Greensboro Station Place
Tower 1, Suite 900
McLean, VA
22102
US
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 888-687-6780
Tower 1, Suite 900
McLean, VA
22102
US
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 888-687-6780
02-13-2018, 09:49 AM
#20
Tech Adept
Just raced one
Well I couldn't resist the $250.00 price tag and it is worth a lot more. Car is good. Just raced at the "Southside Shootout" on the track where the nationals are to be held in Lake City, FL. Over a hundred entries on a large, low/medium grip track. I finished 2nd out of 28 in sportsman e-buggy (the biggest class). Was the only Hobao. I did have some pro hop-ups but believe they were not needed.
What you have to do:
Take out the diffs and degrease. They use something like 1/10th scale ball diff grease. Use 5/10/3 instead.
Leave the shocks and springs alone. If anything, it needs harder rear spring. Just check that there is no rebound.
Use the kit rear a/r bar and the smallest option front a/r bar.
Lengthen the front upper control arm and shorten the rear.
Super glue the front body mount.
Used a Tekin 1900KV with a 17 tooth pinion for the large track.
Use Hobao wheels. Others have "ribs" that will rub the A-arm at full lock. Or you could just dremel the offending section of "rib".
I had the battery in the rear position.
Added a aluminum servo horn
Other than the front bar and the servo horn, the stock stuff is pretty good. I hadn't raced 1/8th scale in 5 or 6 years and still did well with it. Other than the body mount coming loose it was flawless and quiet for a steel spur gear. I would recommend it to anyone and not just for the price!
What you have to do:
Take out the diffs and degrease. They use something like 1/10th scale ball diff grease. Use 5/10/3 instead.
Leave the shocks and springs alone. If anything, it needs harder rear spring. Just check that there is no rebound.
Use the kit rear a/r bar and the smallest option front a/r bar.
Lengthen the front upper control arm and shorten the rear.
Super glue the front body mount.
Used a Tekin 1900KV with a 17 tooth pinion for the large track.
Use Hobao wheels. Others have "ribs" that will rub the A-arm at full lock. Or you could just dremel the offending section of "rib".
I had the battery in the rear position.
Added a aluminum servo horn
Other than the front bar and the servo horn, the stock stuff is pretty good. I hadn't raced 1/8th scale in 5 or 6 years and still did well with it. Other than the body mount coming loose it was flawless and quiet for a steel spur gear. I would recommend it to anyone and not just for the price!
02-13-2018, 12:14 PM
#21
Well I couldn't resist the $250.00 price tag and it is worth a lot more. Car is good. Just raced at the "Southside Shootout" on the track where the nationals are to be held in Lake City, FL. Over a hundred entries on a large, low/medium grip track. I finished 2nd out of 28 in sportsman e-buggy (the biggest class). Was the only Hobao. I did have some pro hop-ups but believe they were not needed.
What you have to do:
Take out the diffs and degrease. They use something like 1/10th scale ball diff grease. Use 5/10/3 instead.
Leave the shocks and springs alone. If anything, it needs harder rear spring. Just check that there is no rebound.
Use the kit rear a/r bar and the smallest option front a/r bar.
Lengthen the front upper control arm and shorten the rear.
Super glue the front body mount.
Used a Tekin 1900KV with a 17 tooth pinion for the large track.
Use Hobao wheels. Others have "ribs" that will rub the A-arm at full lock. Or you could just dremel the offending section of "rib".
I had the battery in the rear position.
Added a aluminum servo horn
Other than the front bar and the servo horn, the stock stuff is pretty good. I hadn't raced 1/8th scale in 5 or 6 years and still did well with it. Other than the body mount coming loose it was flawless and quiet for a steel spur gear. I would recommend it to anyone and not just for the price!
What you have to do:
Take out the diffs and degrease. They use something like 1/10th scale ball diff grease. Use 5/10/3 instead.
Leave the shocks and springs alone. If anything, it needs harder rear spring. Just check that there is no rebound.
Use the kit rear a/r bar and the smallest option front a/r bar.
Lengthen the front upper control arm and shorten the rear.
Super glue the front body mount.
Used a Tekin 1900KV with a 17 tooth pinion for the large track.
Use Hobao wheels. Others have "ribs" that will rub the A-arm at full lock. Or you could just dremel the offending section of "rib".
I had the battery in the rear position.
Added a aluminum servo horn
Other than the front bar and the servo horn, the stock stuff is pretty good. I hadn't raced 1/8th scale in 5 or 6 years and still did well with it. Other than the body mount coming loose it was flawless and quiet for a steel spur gear. I would recommend it to anyone and not just for the price!
02-13-2018, 12:33 PM
#22
Tech Master
yes ..... track footage +1..... not just the birds eye view....... not going to mention anybody in peticular.....LOL ! ! !
02-13-2018, 02:57 PM
#23
keep it near the ground then !! 
02-15-2018, 05:02 AM
#24
Tech Adept
03-12-2018, 05:07 AM
#25
Tech Adept
Some Pics
[ATTACH][ATTACH]
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
06-26-2018, 09:41 AM
#26
Tech Rookie
[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 1463447[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
06-26-2018, 11:14 AM
#27
Tech Initiate
One recommedation id seriously recommend is the Aluminum Chassis Lower Arm Braces. The plastic ones aren’t worth a shite.
Here’s pics of my Hyper VS.
Here’s pics of my Hyper VS.
06-26-2018, 12:17 PM
#28
[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 1463447[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
06-26-2018, 12:20 PM
#29
06-26-2018, 09:41 PM
#30
Tech Rookie