8Likeshobao hyper VS-E buggy
06-21-2018, 12:25 PM
#106
good work !! i can't wait to see you forming bodies
do the tires touch the body when steering ? you might want to put some hub extensions to make the buggy wider !
do the tires touch the body when steering ? you might want to put some hub extensions to make the buggy wider !
06-21-2018, 01:57 PM
#107
Tech Initiate
06-26-2018, 09:57 PM
#108
Tech Rookie
Hi!
Hello new member here
anyone here used other brand wheel / tires?
does the wheel rub the a arm when the steering is at full left or right?
thx !
anyone here used other brand wheel / tires?
does the wheel rub the a arm when the steering is at full left or right?
thx !
08-03-2018, 08:16 PM
#109
10-19-2018, 09:45 AM
#110
Tech Rookie
Hi Werner,
I was wondering if you'd be kind enough to share a picture showing the bottom of the VS with the RC8 body.
How is the gap between the bottom plate and the body? Is it a good fit or a loose fit?
Is the RC8 body holding tight to the Hobao mounting points? How does it compare with the fit of the original body?
Thanks a lot in advance !
Best regards,
taurus
I was wondering if you'd be kind enough to share a picture showing the bottom of the VS with the RC8 body.
How is the gap between the bottom plate and the body? Is it a good fit or a loose fit?
Is the RC8 body holding tight to the Hobao mounting points? How does it compare with the fit of the original body?
Thanks a lot in advance !
Best regards,
taurus
Last edited by taurus; 10-19-2018 at 10:26 AM.
10-19-2018, 11:58 AM
#111
Hi Werner,
I was wondering if you'd be kind enough to share a picture showing the bottom of the VS with the RC8 body.
How is the gap between the bottom plate and the body? Is it a good fit or a loose fit?
Is the RC8 body holding tight to the Hobao mounting points? How does it compare with the fit of the original body?
Thanks a lot in advance !
Best regards,
taurus
I was wondering if you'd be kind enough to share a picture showing the bottom of the VS with the RC8 body.
How is the gap between the bottom plate and the body? Is it a good fit or a loose fit?
Is the RC8 body holding tight to the Hobao mounting points? How does it compare with the fit of the original body?
Thanks a lot in advance !
Best regards,
taurus
Last edited by werner sline; 10-19-2018 at 03:59 PM.
10-21-2018, 01:33 AM
#112
Tech Rookie
Thanks a lot man!
Best regards,
T
Best regards,
T
11-05-2018, 10:07 PM
#113
Tech Adept
Upsdates
Just wanted to update on competitive set up for this car. Its been really good for me anyway and am finishing where I should if not above. I've raced the Southside Shootout and two Force Series races. They are our State Series races here in Florida. This is in Sportsman or intermediate class.
Southside Shootout: Q7 out of 23, finished 2nd.
Force Race #1 Q5 out of 20 but didn't have time to race both mains.
Force Race #2 Q3 out of 15 and finished 5th.
Here are some tips and equipment I'm using;
HB d812/815 body. You can get this body for $20 bucks at Amain since its old. Its a great fit. I'll try to put pictures up soon.
Use orange front springs and grey stock rears.
Use outside holes on the arms and center on towers front and rear.
Use the smallest option sway bar on front and 2nd smallest option sway bar on rear.
I use 26mm ride height.
I cut 2mm off of the battery cradle to lower it and used 2mm shorter screws under the ESC.
For the front body post I put a screw up from underneath the top deck and put a nut on top. You have to dremel away some of the body post. No big deal.
I dremeled away some of the caster block to get a little more steering lock.
Did away with the receiver box and put some lead weights on the right side pod to counter balance the battery weight.
Shock oil is 30 Assoc. front and 27.5 rear.
Diff oil is 7 front 10 center and 5 or 7 rear.
Droop is 106mm front and 120mm rear. In other word just set droop screws so that the shock lengths are such. Measure from the center of each mounting bolt for each shock.
You may know that I've upgraded to the pro version from the other thread for this car so it is lighter. It also has a titanium top screw kit on it. This is a good car and I had no trouble making the investment in the screws for it.
I'll try to post pictures here soon.
Southside Shootout: Q7 out of 23, finished 2nd.
Force Race #1 Q5 out of 20 but didn't have time to race both mains.
Force Race #2 Q3 out of 15 and finished 5th.
Here are some tips and equipment I'm using;
HB d812/815 body. You can get this body for $20 bucks at Amain since its old. Its a great fit. I'll try to put pictures up soon.
Use orange front springs and grey stock rears.
Use outside holes on the arms and center on towers front and rear.
Use the smallest option sway bar on front and 2nd smallest option sway bar on rear.
I use 26mm ride height.
I cut 2mm off of the battery cradle to lower it and used 2mm shorter screws under the ESC.
For the front body post I put a screw up from underneath the top deck and put a nut on top. You have to dremel away some of the body post. No big deal.
I dremeled away some of the caster block to get a little more steering lock.
Did away with the receiver box and put some lead weights on the right side pod to counter balance the battery weight.
Shock oil is 30 Assoc. front and 27.5 rear.
Diff oil is 7 front 10 center and 5 or 7 rear.
Droop is 106mm front and 120mm rear. In other word just set droop screws so that the shock lengths are such. Measure from the center of each mounting bolt for each shock.
You may know that I've upgraded to the pro version from the other thread for this car so it is lighter. It also has a titanium top screw kit on it. This is a good car and I had no trouble making the investment in the screws for it.
I'll try to post pictures here soon.
11-05-2018, 10:39 PM
#114
Tech Adept
11-05-2018, 10:43 PM
#115
Tech Adept
Almost forgot:
rear camber link is stock.
front camber link long.
rear toe in 3 degrees.
front toe out is 2 to 3 degrees at ride height.
rear camber link is stock.
front camber link long.
rear toe in 3 degrees.
front toe out is 2 to 3 degrees at ride height.
11-21-2018, 01:48 AM
#116
Tech Rookie
In the other thread, you hinted earlier that the pro hop-ups were not really needed for the car to perform adequately.
In hindsight, after proper driving and maintenance experience on the car, what would you still recommend as hop-ups for the basic version of the roller? I'm looking for durability over performance.
Thanks a lot!
11-25-2018, 09:59 PM
#117
Tech Adept
Man. I think for durability all that it needs is to do that body mount fix in the front. Maybe keep an extra pair of front arms. Everything is rock solid. I think that Werner, who does amazing jumps, has had pretty good luck with his.
For performance, I think the most important things are the orange front springs and the carbon arm stiffeners. These arms are like rubber almost. That’s a reason why they don’t break but it sacrifices performance.
BTW I forgot to mention that the above set up is for rock hard clay with dust. A low grip set up. Also forgot it is LWB.
hopebthat helps.
For performance, I think the most important things are the orange front springs and the carbon arm stiffeners. These arms are like rubber almost. That’s a reason why they don’t break but it sacrifices performance.
BTW I forgot to mention that the above set up is for rock hard clay with dust. A low grip set up. Also forgot it is LWB.
hopebthat helps.
11-25-2018, 10:15 PM
#118
Tech Adept
Almost forgot. I never ran mine with the plastic arm holders that the hinge pins fit into. I would buy the aluminum one that goes in front of the rear arms. That one is the most vulnerable.
03-19-2019, 11:13 AM
#119
Tech Adept
Good pic
03-19-2019, 11:50 AM
#120
nice !!