Archivist's Yokomo YZ-4 SF Build Pictorial
#17
Tech Initiate
great pics, buddy
#18
#19
- Shorter negative power lead cannot reach the positive side
- Positive power lead shortened to reduce slack and reduce movement toward spur
- Servo wire from SBS01C sensor anchored to power lead
- Wire from SBS01TE to heat sensor rerouted to avoid gears
#20
Did the shock shaft screw actually snapped?
#22
Sure did. There’s a chance that I was not in alignment, but I really don’t think so. The lesson is this: if there is ANY resistance at all, stop screwing. It should be a frictionless operation. If it sticks, let your dealer/distributor know.
#23
Heat sensor: 3.8g
The RPM sensor is about the same size as the heat sensor. I suspect it is only a few tenths lighter if not the same as the heat sensor.
In its current configuration (no additional weights) the car weighs 1756g and its heavier on the battery side.
#25
Because it’s specific to the original kit build, I’ll include the design/painting.
#27
My climate is moderate (mid Pennsylvania) and, like so many things in our RC outfit, the sensor is clearly non-essential. I got the heat sensor to gather data that I can spreadsheet, chart, graph, compare after tuning and running. I might be able to use the information to make informed tuning and driving refinements. If not, I’ll always have my fancy charts :)
#28
#29
My climate is moderate (mid Pennsylvania) and, like so many things in our RC outfit, the sensor is clearly non-essential. I got the heat sensor to gather data that I can spreadsheet, chart, graph, compare after tuning and running. I might be able to use the information to make informed tuning and driving refinements. If not, I’ll always have my fancy charts
...you are a freakin' artist! Amazing design and artistic skills, sir.
#30
What kind of grease are you using on your diff orings and diff gaskets. Great build thread!