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TLR 22T 4.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Stadium Truck

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TLR 22T 4.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Stadium Truck

Old 07-20-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by M.Boos
I used the 5.0 servo horn, too. I think my servo sits in a more forward position than Reno's, it rubs and binds everywhere. I assume the dremeling on the front bulkhead is the same as if I run the 4.0 steering flipped, did this on my 4.0 Buggy.
Did run the #6 Ackermann yesterday and it was much better, even with the standard steering. The steering feel is much more calm, reminds me of the TLR234007 spindles I used to run on my Buggy .
Iím planning on trying this. Have one side done, but notice there are a lot of exposed threads on the turnbuckle, any issues with it pulling out of the ball cup. Iím going to see if I can try and get some 5.0 type side guards for the truck 3D printed so I can use the full 22 5.0 front setup.
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:26 AM
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Anyone change out the steering ball cups? What do you use?
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Old 07-28-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 1M
Anyone change out the steering ball cups? What do you use?
use the RPM cups cut back
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Old 08-28-2019, 12:19 PM
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A while back, someone asked about using an "SR slipper eliminator", and Frank confirmed that it could be used (even confirmed a team member was using it, and "hauling"). Unfortunately, my best Googling hasn't turned up anything. Is it still made, and, if so, can someone please provide the part number (and manufacturer, if it's not a TLR part)?

In addition to the slipper eliminator question, I have a body question. I know others have asked this...although, it's been a while since it was asked, as it was asked shortly after the 22T 4.0 was released...but, does anyone have suggestions/recommendations for alternate bodies? As pointed out by several people, the TLR 4.0 body isn't exactly "attractive". I know there's the JConcepts 'Finisher' body...although, visually, it's design is only a slight improvemrnt. Based on the wheelbase, I've also discovered there's a possibility that bodies designed for the Traxxas Jato 3.3 (other than the Traxxas body, as it already had the hold cut for the nitro engine) working. I'll have to wait until I build my 22T to find out (not that I own a Jato, but I do have a few Crowd Pleazer 2.0 Jato bodies, purchased for another project I'm also working on), but the difference in wheelbase lengths is only 0.2" (Jato is slightly shorter). Any other alternate 22T 4.0 body suggestions?

Last edited by Panther6834; 08-28-2019 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:19 PM
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Forgive me if this has already been answered but is a 22T 5.0 coming?
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Old 09-01-2019, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack302
Forgive me if this has already been answered but is a 22T 5.0 coming?
Short answer: Eventually

Long answer: Probably not any time soon, especially considering they haven't release a 22SCT 4.0. The 22T 4.0 was released quite a while after the 22SCT 3.0 (which still comes with the standup transmission), so my guess is, the 22SCT 4.0 would have to be released before they release a 22T 5.0...logical, right?
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Old 09-05-2019, 05:07 PM
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"Interesting question" time again...actually, questions.

​1) The local track does both 13.5T, and "open", for stadium truck, and I'd say it's close to a 50-50 draw. Which might be better - 13.5T, or 17.5T? Honestly, I can see advantages for both. Obviously, 13.5T is 'faster'...but, with 17.5T, I could run the Direct Drive, plus I could run the MOD/MIP 17.5 puck system (#18000), both of which can't (or, at least, shouldn't) be used with a 13.5T motor.

2) What are the thoughts on titanium axles and/or dog bones, and is anyone even aware of any company currently manufacturing either/both in titanium? Obvious advantages would be lighter weight, stronger parts, and lowered rotational mass.

3) This is actually a 4-parter:
a) Quickly getting back to the "Direct Drive" idea, has anyone actually tried running the Direct Drive using a 13.5T, and, if so, what were the results?
b) Additionally,​​​​​​ for an indoor clay track, would the Direct Drive be better, or should I just stick with the slipper (this would apply to both the '13.5T' & 17.5T' parts of the above question)?
​ ​ ​ ​c) If the Direct Drive can/should be used, are there any currently-manufactured alternatives available (Avid used to make one, but they've discontinued it)...and, if so, who makes them, and what are the part numbers? (I've tried searching, but came up empty).
d) If sticking with the slipper is my only option, similar to the above question, are there any currently-manufactured alternatives (again, manufacturers & part numbers) that can be recommended. I'm already aware of Avid's "Triad" and "Triad Evo" options, but I have no info on how good they are, and if anyone known within RC racing is actually using them.
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Old 09-05-2019, 05:35 PM
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If the track is either 13.5 or mod, there is ZERO reason to run a 17.5, that makes no sense.
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Old 09-05-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
If the track is either 13.5 or mod, there is ZERO reason to run a 17.5, that makes no sense.
Which brings me back to the 13.5T, and all questions related to it. As for even mentioning 17.5T, that would primarily be because, other than the 21.5T 'TC' & 'USGT' classes, everything spec'd is running 17.5T and/or 13.5T. But, getting back to my original questions, do you have any answers?
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Old 09-05-2019, 06:53 PM
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13.5 with an Avid/Schelle slipper will be best IMO. Don't need the rest of it. You will need a 5.0 topshaft to get it to work properly, the 4.0 nut is too small to hold it in place IMO.
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
13.5 with an Avid/Schelle slipper will be best IMO. Don't need the rest of it. You will need a 5.0 topshaft to get it to work properly, the 4.0 nut is too small to hold it in place IMO.
Are you referring to TLR232082 & TLR236009 (what comes with the 22 5.0 SR), as opposed to TLR2963 & TLR6312 (comes with 22T 4.0)? If not, then, could you please elaborate? Truthfully, I like the design of the Avid slipper. While I've never used one before, it looks to be longer-lasting, require less maintence, and have greater (ie. more customizable) adjustability.

Speaking of the 22 5.0, I do recall at least a few people mentioning replacing other 22T 4.0 parts work various 22 5.0 parts. What might you suggest? And, more importantly, what would you recommend? Since my Rustler 4x4 'conversion' into a "true" 4WD stadium truck possibly won't be allowed to compete at some tracks, that partially let me to getting the 22T (tho I still want a 22SCT).
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:37 AM
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TLR232082

Last edited by RazorRC; 09-06-2019 at 01:55 AM.
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:47 AM
  #448  
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Originally Posted by Panther6834
"Interesting question" time again...actually, questions.

​1) The local track does both 13.5T, and "open", for stadium truck, and I'd say it's close to a 50-50 draw. Which might be better - 13.5T, or 17.5T? Honestly, I can see advantages for both. Obviously, 13.5T is 'faster'...but, with 17.5T, I could run the Direct Drive, plus I could run the MOD/MIP 17.5 puck system (#18000), both of which can't (or, at least, shouldn't) be used with a 13.5T motor.

2) What are the thoughts on titanium axles and/or dog bones, and is anyone even aware of any company currently manufacturing either/both in titanium? Obvious advantages would be lighter weight, stronger parts, and lowered rotational mass.

3) This is actually a 4-parter:
a) Quickly getting back to the "Direct Drive" idea, has anyone actually tried running the Direct Drive using a 13.5T, and, if so, what were the results?
b) Additionally,​​​​​​ for an indoor clay track, would the Direct Drive be better, or should I just stick with the slipper (this would apply to both the '13.5T' & 17.5T' parts of the above question)?
​ ​ ​ ​c) If the Direct Drive can/should be used, are there any currently-manufactured alternatives available (Avid used to make one, but they've discontinued it)...and, if so, who makes them, and what are the part numbers? (I've tried searching, but came up empty).
d) If sticking with the slipper is my only option, similar to the above question, are there any currently-manufactured alternatives (again, manufacturers & part numbers) that can be recommended. I'm already aware of Avid's "Triad" and "Triad Evo" options, but I have no info on how good they are, and if anyone known within RC racing is actually using them.
1) 13.5 no question

2) Protek made a titanium axle, but they were garbage. Great in theory, but racing isn't won by theory.

3) I wouldn't think about running an eliminator in 13.5, regardless of surface.
13.5's nowdays have a ton of power, similar to a decent brushed modified. You'll get more acceleration with an eliminator. But, you also lose a touch of smoothness both on and off the throttle.

Why not just stick with the stock slipper? it's not bad.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:31 PM
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I currently run the stock slipper in my T4.0, but used to run the Schelle/Avid and noticed much faster acceleration. It's probably lighter, but just as significantly centralizes the mass around the layshaft and can spin up more easily.
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC
I currently run the stock slipper in my T4.0, but used to run the Schelle/Avid and noticed much faster acceleration. It's probably lighter, but just as significantly centralizes the mass around the layshaft and can spin up more easily.
Decided to go with the Avid slipper (as well as the Revolution Aura bearings). Also ordered the Ti shock mounts, ball studs, king pins & turnbuckles. Haven't ordered the motor (yet), as I'm still deciding (have it narrowed down to 3 possibilities.

That having been said, I started the build tonight...essentially, I finished "A", although I will have to slightly disassemble a bit once the Ti parts, and bearings, arrive. It was "interesting" building a kit inside the back of a minibus, while my clients were (technically, they still are, as the reception didn't end for another 2 hours) attending a wedding & reception. I have to admit, my enjoyment of building TLR kits continues to grow - the arrangement of the parts packaging is extremely organized, the build manual is clear & concise, and the manual's drawings are perfectly informative. Before I bought my second TLR kit (22 5.0 SR), I considered several 2WD buggy possibilities...but, after downloading the manuals for each, it was clear who had the best manuals, and who had the more organized kits. Keep up the outstanding work, Losi.
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