HB Racing D418 - 1/10 4WD Buggy
#451
Finished the shocks, diffs, and turnbuckles. Took me about 2 hours. Some questions/comments:
1. Went emulsion shocks and cut the bladders. Needed a 5/32" nut driver to tighten the shaft nut, the included 3.6mm wrench was too small.
2. Do I need a washer on the bleeder screws?
3. No included greases or shock fluids. Only diff fluid.
4. What's up with the spring rate stickers? Do people leave those on?
#452
Tech Initiate
Thanks, I will take a look. I'm on high-traction indoor clay though, will go up a bit in diff fluid.
Finished the shocks, diffs, and turnbuckles. Took me about 2 hours. Some questions/comments:
1. Went emulsion shocks and cut the bladders. Needed a 5/32" nut driver to tighten the shaft nut, the included 3.6mm wrench was too small.
2. Do I need a washer on the bleeder screws?
3. No included greases or shock fluids. Only diff fluid.
4. What's up with the spring rate stickers? Do people leave those on?
Finished the shocks, diffs, and turnbuckles. Took me about 2 hours. Some questions/comments:
1. Went emulsion shocks and cut the bladders. Needed a 5/32" nut driver to tighten the shaft nut, the included 3.6mm wrench was too small.
2. Do I need a washer on the bleeder screws?
3. No included greases or shock fluids. Only diff fluid.
4. What's up with the spring rate stickers? Do people leave those on?
#453
i actually like the idea of kits not including any fluids. people need to be able to set up the car for their track and most people have fluids anyway. if not including fluid decreases the price of kits by 5-10 bucks, i'm in favor of it.
#454
No captured hexes? I like how the drivepins fall out when you turn the buggy upside down. Just ordered a set of Exotek hexes, but WTF.
Build done. Make sure you have an open wrench/nut driver for 4.0, 5.0, 5.5, and 7.0mm.
Build done. Make sure you have an open wrench/nut driver for 4.0, 5.0, 5.5, and 7.0mm.
#455
Tech Initiate
#457
Tech Adept
Also, a little black grease on the pins for the hexes will make them tacky enough to where they won't fall out so easily. But yeah, locking hexes are definitely a good insurance piece.
#458
Check your rear hex (i.e, right-side rear - visible in your photo) - it looks like it's flipped. On the hexes, one side will have a perfectly flat face, and the other side will have a slightly raised part that basically shims the hex face away from the hub/bearing face. If you have it flipped, with the raised part facing out, the flat wears up against the bearing and hub face.
Also, a little black grease on the pins for the hexes will make them tacky enough to where they won't fall out so easily. But yeah, locking hexes are definitely a good insurance piece.
Also, a little black grease on the pins for the hexes will make them tacky enough to where they won't fall out so easily. But yeah, locking hexes are definitely a good insurance piece.
FYI, I’m using TLR 22-4 pressed pins for the front.
#459
Which rear hubs should I get, the HB or Exotek ones? Do the Exotek ones hold up pretty good? The price is more attractive...
#460
Tech Initiate
Here is my final fine tuned base setup for d418 on various tracks and condition. From low grip bumpy astro to smooth low grip indoor tracks. Works like dream.
Took hole summer to finalize this setup and get every bug out of this cars setup. On our outdoor astro track 1.0second improvement on time from 17.5s to 16.5s with this setup.
Took hole summer to finalize this setup and get every bug out of this cars setup. On our outdoor astro track 1.0second improvement on time from 17.5s to 16.5s with this setup.
#461
Almost done with my D418 build (only added Exotek aluminum steering and rear hubs). Should be interesting to compare to an XB4 '15 which I also own.
Drivetrain seems quite a bit more heavier/beefy compared to the XB4 (not that it was a weak spot). Will see how this car does in low traction dusty conditions.
Drivetrain seems quite a bit more heavier/beefy compared to the XB4 (not that it was a weak spot). Will see how this car does in low traction dusty conditions.
#462
Using Associated V1 blue springs up front which were quite a bit better than the stock springs. Did not get a chance to adjust shock oil or rear springs yet, will be doing that next. Diff fluids are 10k/100k/7k, feel like 7k/60k/7k might be better.
#463
Tech Initiate
Got to drive it today for about 6 packs. Fun buggy, started off with some weird (wrong) setup, but spent several hours moving towards this setup and every change was very positive, so I will most likely end up with something very close. High traction indoor clay.
Using Associated V1 blue springs up front which were quite a bit better than the stock springs. Did not get a chance to adjust shock oil or rear springs yet, will be doing that next. Diff fluids are 10k/100k/7k, feel like 7k/60k/7k might be better.
Using Associated V1 blue springs up front which were quite a bit better than the stock springs. Did not get a chance to adjust shock oil or rear springs yet, will be doing that next. Diff fluids are 10k/100k/7k, feel like 7k/60k/7k might be better.
I found that this buggy has very much weight transfer in front and thats why it needs less front kickup. Im using those optional number 5 front arm mount which gives 6 degrees kick up front.
Also it likes high rear roll center and balanced high rollcenter in front.
My setup is very similar to david ronnefalks current. Just little tweaks to get it better fit for my driving style. Also those upgrage universal driveshafts are big improvement compared to cvd. This also depends of your driving style.
Last edited by rcuser456734567; 09-14-2019 at 01:48 AM.
#464
Tech Elite
With all the recently released option parts and the low US price of 449.- do you think there is a revised high-grip kit version in the pipeline? I am looking for a new wheeler, but as much as I'd love the D418, it would be way too expensive to buy the kit and the updates in Germany, probably more than 600 euros...