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Old 06-02-2006, 02:11 PM   #256
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Rc-champ in japan is the best .....great service and best price worldwide.....

Bye
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Old 06-03-2006, 01:32 PM   #257
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You get them from Tamiyausa.com.
Here is a list of parts for the df03
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:35 AM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheehtae
yeah....long time ago. There should be a thread posting on it somewhere over here.
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:57 AM   #259
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Five Stars has released a ton of hop-ups for this car

I'll have to upload the list to my DI Site.

I am currently using the alloy input shafts - very light indeed.

They now also have:
One-Piece steel input shafts (with the drive cup on the end)
Combination alloy/carbon front shock tower
Carbon Rear shock tower
Front steering knuckles
Rear hub carriers.

No pics yet, just line drawings on the futaba pro shop website.

None of it is necessary, but it all adds to the bling

I wonder when the Tamiya hopups will be released?
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:05 AM   #260
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Got a link Bender??

Hope to have the slipper back this week to test at a regional next weekend.
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:26 AM   #261
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I raced mine for the first time last saturday, quite dissapointing first outing to be honest. However, first killing one LRP Sphere and then having severe speedo problems with another ESC meant that I lost half a day of running which surely didn't help, but anyway..

The rear diff caused major headache. It started to slip without any appearent reason and the pressure plates got disaligned totally after a few heats.

In general the car was stable, but just too stable for my liking. Severe understeer especially when releasing the throttle. I think a one-way would have made my work a bit easier..

Also, the steering lock is too limited up front. I thought it was gonna be enough, but it wasn't. Perhaps the above mentioned problem made it worse, but for sure it would have been useful. I will try to reverse the setup with the arms to have the shocks forwards and make some more space for the steering arms through that.
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:33 AM   #262
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There is a mod to allow more steering throw, but you realy want to be running CVD driveshafts for reliability for that. Did you have your suspension geometry set to Kit build as it gives far to much toe-out on the front.

Also, shock bottoms, put the front on the back and vice versa, it balances out the chassis better.

Rear Diff, did you glue the plates onto the holders? I had that problem till I did. Also, sounds like you could do with contacting neil at www.rwracing.co.uk for a slipper clutch shaft to allow you to run a B4 slipper assembly (same as used on the BJ4 and new Yokomo BX).
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:47 PM   #263
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DCM-

This link HERE has the steel input shafts and front tower. You'll have to scroll down a bit to find them.

This link HERE has the rear tower, front knuckles, and rear hub carriers.

Just look on the right hand side section for part numbers starting with "FS"

Judging by the letter at the end of the part numbers, all the alloy bits will be avilable in either silver or black.

Pus2- I don't know if you're using dogbones in the front but I found they bind the front end up a little, reducing the steering. Just switching to CVD's made my car steer better, even without doing the mod.

With the mod done my car has the maximum lock available (the steering knuckles hit the c-hubs at full throw) and I am very happy with the steering from mine.
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:44 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
Pus2- I don't know if you're using dogbones in the front but I found they bind the front end up a little, reducing the steering. Just switching to CVD's made my car steer better, even without doing the mod.

With the mod done my car has the maximum lock available (the steering knuckles hit the c-hubs at full throw) and I am very happy with the steering from mine.
I'm using top force universals front & rear. And I have done the steering mod. But as I said I don't think more steering throw would have neccesarily solved my problems. I think a one-way really would have been the ticket.
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:49 PM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst

Rear Diff, did you glue the plates onto the holders? I had that problem till I did. Also, sounds like you could do with contacting neil at www.rwracing.co.uk for a slipper clutch shaft to allow you to run a B4 slipper assembly (same as used on the BJ4 and new Yokomo BX).
Yeah we ended up gluing the plates onto the holders, there was no other solution after the pressure plates had damaged the hexagonal pattern and had 2-3 mm of unidirectional slip on its own mounting point.

I don't like the lack of precision in the rear diff. And for some reason I noticed this already when building; the front diff came together so nicely but not the rear one. I don't know if I was asleep when I built them or something or if any parts are different between the two (what that could be.. the outdrives?), but they ended up so different in general "feel". It was so hard to get any decent linear action from the rear one, and I built both in just the same way.

And yeah, agree about the slipper. I don't use one at the moment and on this bumpy track it would be desirable. It won't work miracles but I guess it would at least save the rear diff from some of the abuse..

Last edited by pUs2; 06-05-2006 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 06-05-2006, 03:13 PM   #266
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Without a slipper, under acceleration the rear axle carries a majority of the load, so it takes the worst of the abuse. I do remember someone saying that the front outdrives gave the same fit and off-set as the rear, I don't particularly like the way it works on the rear but as soon as the outdrives become available I will get a set of fronts to go in the rear.

I could ask [email protected] to make hardened and lightened outdrives, but he would only make them if he thought that they were viable to sell.

As for steering, or lack off, yes a one-way will help.
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:25 PM   #267
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Can someone please list the needed modifications to make this a workable 4wd buggy on a dirt track? I'm not talking graphite hop-ups, but what's NEEDED to avoid disappointment the first time out. I think that would be: slipper clutch and universals (all around or just in front?). Anything else?

Please list part numbers and sources if you can.

Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:40 PM   #268
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Slipper (RW Racing, but you will need to supply B4 slipper plates, slipper pads and spur gear www.rwracing.co.uk)

DF-02 Tamiya CVD's, front only, rear not realy needed

Maybe change the ball cups.

Build the shocks with long shock bottoms on the front (not the short ones) and short ones on the back (not the long ones).

Visit Benders website for build tips and little mods.
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:52 PM   #269
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Does anyone know how to work out gear pitch?

I was thinking about what pinions could possibly mesh well with the stock 0.5 module spurs, and I thought is there a chance that 56pitch or bk gears would work?

Just a thought
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Old 06-07-2006, 02:59 PM   #270
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The closest you will get it 48dp pinion on a .5, it just about works but isn't brilliant.

Hope this link helps you http://www.pic-design.com/tech/equiv...equivalent.htm

Metric gears will never work correctly to an imperial gear, and you can never convert, you either got to run metric or imperial to get a correct mesh, just the same as using bearings, you can't put metric bearings on an imperial shaft.
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