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Old 04-19-2006, 08:14 PM   #136
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Looks like it sold out everywhere except for Towerhobbies (you cannot even buy it there yet).

Doesn't this make Tamiya wished they made Dark Impact SOONER?
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Old 04-19-2006, 09:08 PM   #137
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i also wanna kno if these are good, before i waste my money lol
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Old 04-19-2006, 09:57 PM   #138
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PUS2: can you give us a breakdown of what all you put on the vehicle that isn't stock and how well did it fit?
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Old 04-20-2006, 04:05 AM   #139
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My car has done a few runs in standard trim, and I'm now in the process of getting a few key hop-ups before it's first serious race meeting in May.

So far the car has been great, handling well, very quick acceleration, nice smooth diffs etc.

But you have to face facts, whilst the design is IMO better than any other 4wd on the market - it is still a "basic" kit - one that does require a few hop-ups to have a serious race-ready machine.

My suggestions:

Better shocks: either Tamiya's DF02 alloy shocks or their new DF03 shocks soon to be released. Losi and AE shocks would be good too - but you will have to fiddle around with body and shaft sizes to get them to fit well in the front.

CVD's: Normally, the stock dogbones are quite ok on a normal Tamiya car, however in an ironic twist, this car so much suspension travel that the dogbones are sometimes coming out. Tamiya's DF02 CVD's fit perfectly.

Slipper/Gear Adaptor: Two options:

Tamiya's slipper will be released soon, however it seems that it will only accept their own 0.5 module spurs( like the std kit). Realistically, you would only need a handful of pinions to have a suitable gear range but some people will definately want to run 48dp.
A gear adaptor is available from one of the Tamiya Club members (Gary), I have one, and it's very good, plus there is likely to be more options available soon from 3racing, Kose, Tobee, Square etc

That's all the car really NEEDS. Turnbuckles and possibly better ballcups could be useful too, and I'm sure Tamiya have other options soon to be available like a motor plate with additional heatsinks, roll-bars, one-way etc

By my calculations, it is concievable to add everything I've mentioned above, and still come out with more money to spare than if you'd bought and X5, BJ4x4, Yokomo etc
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Old 04-20-2006, 06:06 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
.......
A gear adaptor is available from one of the Tamiya Club members (Gary), I have one, and it's very good, plus there is likely to be more options available soon from 3racing, Kose, Tobee, Square etc

......
Could you post some pics of this gear adapter ? What's it made of ?

Thnx
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:21 AM   #141
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I've heard that the Dark Impact is almost 100 grams lighter than the ZX-5!
How light does that make it?
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Old 04-21-2006, 01:07 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akuhon
Could you post some pics of this gear adapter ? What's it made of ?

Thnx
Here you go:
Attached Thumbnails
SCOOP: New Tamiya Competition 4wd-dark%2520impact%2520003.jpg   SCOOP: New Tamiya Competition 4wd-dark%2520impact.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2006, 05:29 AM   #143
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I think it would have been even better if they came up with a Top Force Evolution II and make it a true racer with front and rear alum. bulks , double decks of woven carbon fiber, light weight shaft, front/rear stabalizers, slipper system, big size TRF dampers, titanium screws all over, aluminum nuts and a motor mount with heatsink and the chassis should have eight battery slots, four in the right and four in the left. However, this is only my dream, because I want a brushless/lipo 4wd buggy made by tamiya to take down the best 1/8 4wd buggy out there.
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:02 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
Here you go:
Thanks mate, who's the manufacturer ?
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:57 AM   #145
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Odds are you could do a little machine work and mount the top shaft from a xxx or b4 right on there w/ slipper & all. If I was to guess the gear on the top shaft is mounted w/ a pin just like on the losis. As long as you could find a way to achieve a good tight fit between the gear and the shaft I'm sure it would work great. Secondly I would take a dremmel to that chassis and completely lighten it up. I'm pretty sure you can tell where theres points that just don't matter. Once you have done this. Go out and pick up a long tie rod. Mount it from the rear transmission case to the front transmission case. This will serve as an excellent upper deck. One of those screws on the top of the rear transmission in the picture would be a perfect canidate to take a captured rod end and throw it right there under a slightly longer screw w/ a washer over the top. BTW, is there a center diff in the car? I'm curious as to where it would be placed.
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:59 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by party_wagon
Odds are you could do a little machine work and mount the top shaft from a xxx or b4 right on there w/ slipper & all. If I was to guess the gear on the top shaft is mounted w/ a pin just like on the losis. As long as you could find a way to achieve a good tight fit between the gear and the shaft I'm sure it would work great. Secondly I would take a dremmel to that chassis and completely lighten it up. I'm pretty sure you can tell where theres points that just don't matter. Once you have done this. Go out and pick up a long tie rod. Mount it from the rear transmission case to the front transmission case. This will serve as an excellent upper deck. One of those screws on the top of the rear transmission in the picture would be a perfect canidate to take a captured rod end and throw it right there under a slightly longer screw w/ a washer over the top. BTW, is there a center diff in the car? I'm curious as to where it would be placed.
I love internet engineers

The layshaft gear is not held on with a pin - so your guess would be wrong.

Secondly, there is no need to lighten the chassis. It has been spcifically designed in the shape it is to form a rigid box structure, and it's already very light - remember it's a lot smaller than most other cars chassis'.

A tie rod for an upper deck Wow, talk about adding flex to a car

And no there is no centre diff.

Perhaps you should actually have one in your hands before you give us your expert opinions
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:02 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akuhon
Thanks mate, who's the manufacturer ?
They are made by a guy (Gary) on the tamiya club forums (here )

He is currently working on adapting a B4 slipper to fit, but Tamiya will be releasing their own slipper soon as well.
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Old 04-22-2006, 01:44 AM   #148
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I'm pretty sure that if you ran 1/8th scale buggy you would know what I'm talking about. A tie rod/ turnbuckle/ footlong of very hard titanium that is not made to flex makes a very good brace for something that has flex in it. If you were familiar w/ the competitive micro scene you would know that the typical half 8 uses the same basic modification to decrease flex in the chasis.
Last but not least, I'm pretty sure the last Tamiya I owned could be easily twisted and torted w/ your hands. In off road forward/rear flex is the only real problem which would be solved by a turnbuckle.
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:43 AM   #149
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Until you've got one you're hardly qualified to make such comments, regardless of "how it's done" in other classes.

Using your method may make the cars flex no worse longitudinally, but it would substantially increase lateral flex - and there is just no need for that.

In fact, the very reason why companies like Losi came up with the moulded chassis is to reduce overall flex in the car. Regardless of how many braces/rods/upperdecks you add to a plate chassis, it will never be a stiff as a moulded unit.

I am talking about electric off-road here - it is not comparable with 1/8th off-road for several reasons and so to try and apply the same principles and logic between the two is pointless.

BTW, nice assumptions:
Quote:
if you ran 1/8th scale buggy you would know what I'm talking about
&
Quote:
If you were familiar w/ the competitive micro scene
How do you know that I'm not familiar (or race) either of the two?
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:15 AM   #150
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Theres a reason losi and associated add carbon fiber and other materials to their chasis. Shiny Tamiya plastic is not nearly as stiff as the plastics used in the likes of those cars. I did not say remove parts of the car and replace them with a tie rod. I said add the tie rod to run from the front transmission case to the rear transmission case if you can flex the chasis horizontaly. Basicly a piece that will insure that the two fixtures at the drive shaft will stay exactly the same distance apart. The bottom of the chassis already does this. If you can pick your car up and honestly tell your self that it doesn't have any flex from front to back then don't do it. As far as hop ups are concerned. I'm sure if you do some homework you can find old rollers on ebay w/ good shocks and good turnbuckles the same size as the ones on the dark impact for a very reasonable price.
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