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Old 10-28-2017, 07:23 AM   #16
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I think Losi still uses their own offset. Kyosho, associated, Schumacher, and Yokomo all use the same offset and xray has adaptor hubs to use the associated standard that has been around since at least the b4.2. That a big reason that has me avoiding the losi cars.
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Old 10-28-2017, 07:27 AM   #17
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You have to remember that you are the minority though running a 6 year old car.

Cars are cheap. If it wasn’t only a couple hundred for new tech then I could understand your complaints. You’re actually not doing yourself any favors by running old cars. Modern geometry and layouts are a huge improvement.
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:05 AM   #18
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The reason I’ve left the hobby on and off was because unless your spending the $$ on the newest tech; I’m talking motors, esc, battery’s...you will always have trouble competing.

Lately though it seems the tech is holding up longer, and as long as you have a fairly relevant vehicle you can keep up. But you also have to be careful and take care of that stuff because it isn’t cheap to replace!

As for the kits, manufacturers have been doing that for years, making new better cars and changing how parts assemble and work together.
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:12 AM   #19
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I have complete aluminum 2deg trail steering knuckles with 10mm axles if they'd help out your situation. Probably have some mounted tires on 10mm wheels, and unmountes 10mm wheels as well I'd let go for next to nothing. What screw are you missing? I was in your shoes until recently. Got a 2.0 on trade, thought I'd try it out and see what all the hoopla was about. Loved it but options for older buggies was limited. 3.0 rollers go for about $150. 4.0's around $200. And yes the improvements are well worth it. One thing about the 22's is that quite a few parts carry over multiple generations. Everything between the front hinge pins on up hasn't changed.
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:35 AM   #20
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the hex size change was long over due. The touring car world seem to grasp this concept from the get go... (LOSI streetweapon didnt )

As many point out is a simple fix.

Enjoy the hobby and racing for what it is.... dont be fooled into having to spend.

Im 44 been racing club level since i was 20.... never quit..
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:23 AM   #21
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I made up the "Wrong Club Racing"...it is about joining a club that isn't really about what I assumed they were about...essentially joining the wrong club. It's the worst when you're inbetween groups, like not "crazy" like a basher, but not competitive like a true racer.

I'm kind of in the same position. I sold my RC stuff to help buy a house, but then I turned around and bought two trucks this spring. But just now I thought I would rather buy a fancy welder... But I'm an idiot, and I know I'll want to buy a car again if I sell what I've got.

Racing is competition, and especially newbies think the easiest way to win is to get a faster car. That's what the majority of people are looking for. The race mfg's follow the demand, which is for newer and faster models. With the rate of "improvements", it is expensive for them to maintain a supply of old parts. The mfg can't afford to support old models forever.

I hate to say it, but....Traxxas??? I mean, yeah, most here would never race a traxxas, but they re-use existing parts instead of designing new parts. A car you bought 20(?) years ago uses the same parts as current models, so you'd never have these issues.

And if you beat the expensive new cars with a Traxxas, you have extra special bragging rights!
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:51 AM   #22
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RC has been my hobby of choice for over 40 years now. Whether planes, helicopters, or cars, there is always an advancement of technology, which I fully embrace.

I, for one, have no wish to be using nicads for any application. I don't miss having to share limited frequencies at the flying field, or being crashed by some newby that forgot, and turned his radio on without having the pin.

I have an old Koyosho Optima Mid that I bought and outfitted brand new. It is prehistoric both mechanically, and electrically compared with what is currently available. Sorry, no compassion for your dilemma here. There are many other hobbies/pursuits much more costly than this one.

Jay

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Old 10-28-2017, 05:49 PM   #23
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1/10th offroad, especially 2wd, is my favorite class so far but it did change a lot the last 6-7 years. I may have kept my 4wd and still be competitive but still every year kits kept getting better (faster, stronger, easier to drive) so I usually sold my cars when I didn't plan to race or practice. i did kept some cars thinking it would be ok but it was a mistake on my part.

Considering the overall cost of the hobby (travels, fees, tyres, etc) a good kit is not that big of a deal.

Electronics is about the same, I smoke an esc a year ago and put a 2 year old esc I kept as spare and with more powerful motors and lipo of today I got a lot of heat, less forward drive and looser brakes, not much but it was obvious the class is in constant evolution.

It is less expensive too as the cars are very durable now, hardly break at all except for big crash. Can work right out of the box and gear diffs made maintenance very easy and affordable too.

6 years is a lot in that contest but it will slow down soon IMHO (cars will get better but in smaller increments, especially 2wd).

Stock racing is worse off course, we run mostly mod.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:34 PM   #24
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I bought a 1st generation 22 when they first came out. I didn't do my research and that 10mm hex was a nasty little surprise. I sold the car after a week or two because I didn't want to replace the dozen pairs of fronts I already had.
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Old 10-28-2017, 11:44 PM   #25
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Dont need to spend to have fun and be competitive. The hex change to 12mm was way overdue. But like many said, there is a way around it. Find the parts you need to keep the car running while you still have the smaller hex wheels. Just because new cars come out doesnt mean you need to jump on the bandwagon. LETS KEEP RACING FUN!

Cheap unassuming car doing work!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


P.S. This is running with pin style wheels. (no hexes)
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Old 10-29-2017, 04:01 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonyscardina View Post
I bought a 1st generation 22 when they first came out. I didn't do my research and that 10mm hex was a nasty little surprise. I sold the car after a week or two because I didn't want to replace the dozen pairs of fronts I already had.
Just curious, couldn't one just run 12mm wheels on the 10mm hex? After all, the wheel is not driven, it just has to sit on a flat surface.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:30 AM   #27
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Just curious, couldn't one just run 12mm wheels on the 10mm hex? After all, the wheel is not driven, it just has to sit on a flat surface.
The hex was very thin, like 2mm and you put the screw in from outside the wheel. I suppose if you found the right washers it might have worked...
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:00 PM   #28
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Don't you use the hex to tighten the wheel?
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:00 PM   #29
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I know nothing about 1/10 scale Losi stuff. I've never run it. But from the sounds of it OP just bought the wrong brand of car for his needs. If you decide to change brands OP check out the Kyosho RB 6.6. The car can be configured as rear motor, mid motor, 3 gear, 4 gear lay down trans. Its the most "Modular" buggy available. There even a Shaft Drive conversion for it. And its built like a tank! I'm sure I will be running my K cars for many years to come....

And also I would just add. That when Kyosho introduced the RB6.6 the suspensions a-arm, c hubs, knuckles etc all stayed exactly the same. So it was easy to upgrade from an RB-6 to a RB-6.6 as all my spare parts stayed the same....

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Old 10-29-2017, 07:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnmo View Post
. I wish we were all still driving Old School RC10s.
Hang around at rc10talk.com and you'll find many guys who still do and are competitive with them at club level. Problem solved.
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