GMADE shocks - wtf
12-02-2013, 06:03 AM
#1
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
GMADE shocks - wtf
Could someone please explain the differences or advantages to the various shock caps Gmade has available for they're XD shocks. I see all the great pictures & cut aways but,
no real specs on best use or intended purpose of each.
Specifically: Aeration cap, Piggy-back & Diaphragm
& Bleed
Thanks
ChipG
no real specs on best use or intended purpose of each.
Specifically: Aeration cap, Piggy-back & Diaphragm
& Bleed
Thanks
ChipG
12-02-2013, 05:39 PM
#2
Aeration shocks allow adjustment of the damping by allowing air in to mix with the oil via a screw cap which you can loosen and allow air in and tighten. The air and oil mixed makes a foamy emulsion as the piston moves up and down rapidly which can give more damping effect.
Diaphragm shocks are like your normal oil shocks, they have a rubber diaphragm inside. On one side of the diaphragm is the oil and there is a tiny pocket of air on the other side. There is no damping adjustment aside from changing the shock piston to have more or less holes and changing the weight of the oil inside.
The piggy-back shock has an additional oil chamber with its own adjustability via a screw/piston/spring in the bottom of the additional chamber. The screw at the top side of the additional chamber looks like an aeration adjustment screw but its actually to help fill the upper chamber between the two parts with oil and remove air as you do. These are good for more damping effect, good for huge jumps, monster trucks, etc because as the piston moves in the chamber and forces oil into the other side, the other pistion/spring is pushing back against that incoming oil.
Have you been on junfac.com? Is that where you saw the pics? They have very basic explanations with the pictures there.
Diaphragm shocks are like your normal oil shocks, they have a rubber diaphragm inside. On one side of the diaphragm is the oil and there is a tiny pocket of air on the other side. There is no damping adjustment aside from changing the shock piston to have more or less holes and changing the weight of the oil inside.
The piggy-back shock has an additional oil chamber with its own adjustability via a screw/piston/spring in the bottom of the additional chamber. The screw at the top side of the additional chamber looks like an aeration adjustment screw but its actually to help fill the upper chamber between the two parts with oil and remove air as you do. These are good for more damping effect, good for huge jumps, monster trucks, etc because as the piston moves in the chamber and forces oil into the other side, the other pistion/spring is pushing back against that incoming oil.
Have you been on junfac.com? Is that where you saw the pics? They have very basic explanations with the pictures there.
12-03-2013, 04:03 AM
#3
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
Thanks, I have been on the site. I thought they might have some description of the intended use for each shock type. What type of vehical is the aeration shock best for...ie. racing, rock crawling etc. Or the piggyback shock helps when .........
I actually understand how each of them works, I'm just looking for a better explanation of what each shocks specific intended use is. Or is it just cool and I should buy the ones that make my truck look the best. Or, buy all three types and figure it out myself?
Expensive!
ChipG
I actually understand how each of them works, I'm just looking for a better explanation of what each shocks specific intended use is. Or is it just cool and I should buy the ones that make my truck look the best. Or, buy all three types and figure it out myself?
Expensive!
ChipG
12-03-2013, 07:34 AM
#4
Tech Rookie
Aeration shocks allow adjustment of the damping by allowing air in to mix with the oil via a screw cap which you can loosen and allow air in and tighten. The air and oil mixed makes a foamy emulsion as the piston moves up and down rapidly which can give more damping effect.
Diaphragm shocks are like your normal oil shocks, they have a rubber diaphragm inside. On one side of the diaphragm is the oil and there is a tiny pocket of air on the other side. There is no damping adjustment aside from changing the shock piston to have more or less holes and changing the weight of the oil inside.
The piggy-back shock has an additional oil chamber with its own adjustability via a screw/piston/spring in the bottom of the additional chamber. The screw at the top side of the additional chamber looks like an aeration adjustment screw but its actually to help fill the upper chamber between the two parts with oil and remove air as you do. These are good for more damping effect, good for huge jumps, monster trucks, etc because as the piston moves in the chamber and forces oil into the other side, the other pistion/spring is pushing back against that incoming oil.
Have you been on junfac.com? Is that where you saw the pics? They have very basic explanations with the pictures there.
Diaphragm shocks are like your normal oil shocks, they have a rubber diaphragm inside. On one side of the diaphragm is the oil and there is a tiny pocket of air on the other side. There is no damping adjustment aside from changing the shock piston to have more or less holes and changing the weight of the oil inside.
The piggy-back shock has an additional oil chamber with its own adjustability via a screw/piston/spring in the bottom of the additional chamber. The screw at the top side of the additional chamber looks like an aeration adjustment screw but its actually to help fill the upper chamber between the two parts with oil and remove air as you do. These are good for more damping effect, good for huge jumps, monster trucks, etc because as the piston moves in the chamber and forces oil into the other side, the other pistion/spring is pushing back against that incoming oil.
Have you been on junfac.com? Is that where you saw the pics? They have very basic explanations with the pictures there.
12-03-2013, 01:27 PM
#5
The piggybacks are great for monsters, crawlers, and bigger scalers. The external adjustability is just too cool.
The aerations are ok as well, and have some of the same effect. Can be set up as hard or soft, or changed while on the rig fairly easily.
If you are looking to get a set, make sure you have some plumber's thread sealing tape handy. I've had to use it on every single one of the 16 GMade shocks I've built (though none leak at all now, even after hard use)
The aerations are ok as well, and have some of the same effect. Can be set up as hard or soft, or changed while on the rig fairly easily.
If you are looking to get a set, make sure you have some plumber's thread sealing tape handy. I've had to use it on every single one of the 16 GMade shocks I've built (though none leak at all now, even after hard use)
12-05-2013, 06:59 PM
#6
Those new GMade shocks metal capped?
I still have the GMade Team Zero shocks on my CR and the cap is plastic but the body is metal and they sealed up pretty well.
Actually now that I recall, I did use some AE Green Slime to stop some minor leaks
And about the aeration shocks moving slightly after you tighten, I supposed as long as they still have free motion and aren't rocks they should be ok
I still have the GMade Team Zero shocks on my CR and the cap is plastic but the body is metal and they sealed up pretty well.
Actually now that I recall, I did use some AE Green Slime to stop some minor leaks
And about the aeration shocks moving slightly after you tighten, I supposed as long as they still have free motion and aren't rocks they should be ok
12-05-2013, 09:24 PM
#7
Aeration shocks allow adjustment of the damping by allowing air in to mix with the oil via a screw cap which you can loosen and allow air in and tighten. The air and oil mixed makes a foamy emulsion as the piston moves up and down rapidly which can give more damping effect.
wrong, and right. The oils and air are allowed to mix in the shock, but this doesn't give it more dampening, actually it removes some versus running bladder shocks, as the oils mixing with air essentially creates a lower wt or cst. You can counter with thicker oil. The main plus with aeration shocks is the ability to build them with zero rebound.
Diaphragm shocks are like your normal oil shocks, they have a rubber diaphragm inside. On one side of the diaphragm is the oil and there is a tiny pocket of air on the other side. There is no damping adjustment aside from changing the shock piston to have more or less holes and changing the weight of the oil inside.
dampening is only ever changed by oil, or piston. You can build bladder shocks with varying degrees of rebound. This is done by bleeding some of the oil from under the bladder, before the cap is screwed on fully.
The piggy-back shock has an additional oil chamber with its own adjustability via a screw/piston/spring in the bottom of the additional chamber. The screw at the top side of the additional chamber looks like an aeration adjustment screw but its actually to help fill the upper chamber between the two parts with oil and remove air as you do. These are good for more damping effect, good for huge jumps, monster trucks, etc because as the piston moves in the chamber and forces oil into the other side, the other pistion/spring is pushing back against that incoming oil.
again, not quite. The dampening affect is not changed in these shocks, unless it's by oil or pistons. In the rc world, piggyback shocks do not serve a true purpose, and it's more just bling, then functionality. That aside there is a cool feature with these ones in particular. In the reservoir there is a piston, it moves up or down to compensate for the shaft, it is commented to a spring , that is adjustable by a screw. I believe you can adjust the internal pressure of the shock to change rebound, by adjusting the pressure on the spring. Think of this like a bladder, except its a piston instead of a rubber bladder, and the rebound is given by a spring, rather than air under the bladder.
Have you been on junfac.com? Is that where you saw the pics? They have very basic explanations with the pictures there.
wrong, and right. The oils and air are allowed to mix in the shock, but this doesn't give it more dampening, actually it removes some versus running bladder shocks, as the oils mixing with air essentially creates a lower wt or cst. You can counter with thicker oil. The main plus with aeration shocks is the ability to build them with zero rebound.
Diaphragm shocks are like your normal oil shocks, they have a rubber diaphragm inside. On one side of the diaphragm is the oil and there is a tiny pocket of air on the other side. There is no damping adjustment aside from changing the shock piston to have more or less holes and changing the weight of the oil inside.
dampening is only ever changed by oil, or piston. You can build bladder shocks with varying degrees of rebound. This is done by bleeding some of the oil from under the bladder, before the cap is screwed on fully.
The piggy-back shock has an additional oil chamber with its own adjustability via a screw/piston/spring in the bottom of the additional chamber. The screw at the top side of the additional chamber looks like an aeration adjustment screw but its actually to help fill the upper chamber between the two parts with oil and remove air as you do. These are good for more damping effect, good for huge jumps, monster trucks, etc because as the piston moves in the chamber and forces oil into the other side, the other pistion/spring is pushing back against that incoming oil.
again, not quite. The dampening affect is not changed in these shocks, unless it's by oil or pistons. In the rc world, piggyback shocks do not serve a true purpose, and it's more just bling, then functionality. That aside there is a cool feature with these ones in particular. In the reservoir there is a piston, it moves up or down to compensate for the shaft, it is commented to a spring , that is adjustable by a screw. I believe you can adjust the internal pressure of the shock to change rebound, by adjusting the pressure on the spring. Think of this like a bladder, except its a piston instead of a rubber bladder, and the rebound is given by a spring, rather than air under the bladder.
Have you been on junfac.com? Is that where you saw the pics? They have very basic explanations with the pictures there.
12-06-2013, 06:13 AM
#8
The Piggybacks are most definitely functional in this case. Not going to argue the merits of is it damped more or not (there is something to be said for internal pressure) but it's definitely a very noticeable feel and I'd say the overall effect is the same.
Will add it's a pain to get them all identically filled. Even went with a syringe and still was a bit off. Mine are tuned mostly by feel. Fine for a Wraith, but not so much for a racer. Excellent feature though.
Agreed 100% that the aeration shocks can be built basically with or without rebound, or to varying degrees within. Most any shock can really though. Basically, it's like a horizontal bleeder screw. Not sure that Junfac does a great job of explaining that on their site.
Both in use on my CC01. Rears are set for minimal rebound (butter smooth) and played with the fronts to get the feel right. Adjustability comes in might handy when building a custom project. Hate swapping oils around.
Will add it's a pain to get them all identically filled. Even went with a syringe and still was a bit off. Mine are tuned mostly by feel. Fine for a Wraith, but not so much for a racer. Excellent feature though.
Agreed 100% that the aeration shocks can be built basically with or without rebound, or to varying degrees within. Most any shock can really though. Basically, it's like a horizontal bleeder screw. Not sure that Junfac does a great job of explaining that on their site.
Both in use on my CC01. Rears are set for minimal rebound (butter smooth) and played with the fronts to get the feel right. Adjustability comes in might handy when building a custom project. Hate swapping oils around.
12-14-2013, 05:03 PM
#10
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