Just bought a wraith, necessary upgrades?? built suggestions??
#1

I have never owned a rock crawler, tho race 1/8 scale buggy truggy, 1/10 sedans buggys, and minis. I have wanted a wraith for months now and pulled the trigger (kit version as any self respecting racer would do) yesterday while at the track and got a few questions!!
Are there any necessary upgrades??
Tips for building the kit??
My plan is to use traxxas electronics until i figure out exactly what i am going to be using this for as the crawler guys at my local track (rc madness in enfield ct) said they are going to have some sort of rock racing competitions!!
Are there any necessary upgrades??
Tips for building the kit??
My plan is to use traxxas electronics until i figure out exactly what i am going to be using this for as the crawler guys at my local track (rc madness in enfield ct) said they are going to have some sort of rock racing competitions!!
#3

as far as upgrades anything by vp is exclent i have the vp cms kit, panhard set up, and knuckles on mine with the rc4wd lower links up front. and for rims i have the vp revolvers (not made anymore) with 2.2 pit bull rock beasts on them and they grip a hell of a lot better than the stock tires. for electronics id say get the axial ae-2 esc its made by castle and is fully adjustable and water resistant and id go with anywhere between a 27 and 55 turn motor and if you go with a high torque servo you will need a bec for it
#4
Tech Addict
iTrader: (30)

"Tires are 90% of set-up", as you know from any type of racing. If you are competing, you must start there. If you are talking of using Traxxas VXL, it will not crawl at all. You need sensored if you are using brushless.
My Wraith is a basher only, so I'm going to go for durability first. I'm getting VP steering and suspension links first, then going after steel gears from RRP and aluminum knuckles/c hubs from STRC.
My Wraith is a basher only, so I'm going to go for durability first. I'm getting VP steering and suspension links first, then going after steel gears from RRP and aluminum knuckles/c hubs from STRC.
#6

On a side note i've been trying to figure out what your AV is? Is it a close up of your fingers? A fat girls legs? What?

#7
Tech Addict
iTrader: (30)

For sure going with VP links, though. I've heard nothing but issues with STRC links and steering set-up for Wraith. Still up in the air on the Knuckles/C-Hubs...
#8

Dont waste your money buying aftermarket links, build your own for about 1/10th the cost of aftermarket.
Trans gears
32p gears,spur/pinion
use M3 hardware in place of the self tapping course screws in attaching the C's,hubs and lockouts (uless you like looseing them);
Pack the trans and axles with lube, I prefer Lucas red n tacky.
To lower the ride hite and lower the COG so it won't wanna tip over in turns, flip the rear upper and lower shock mounts.
Teflon tape the threds on the shocks, there prone to leaking. Personally I think the kit shocks are junk, I run 4" Losi comp crawler shocks and they work well. Others have had success running ProLine shocks for the front of a Slash on all 4 corners.
Do some reading here,
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-wraith/
Any questions, just ask. I've built 4 of them now so I know a little about them.
Trans gears
32p gears,spur/pinion
use M3 hardware in place of the self tapping course screws in attaching the C's,hubs and lockouts (uless you like looseing them);
Pack the trans and axles with lube, I prefer Lucas red n tacky.
To lower the ride hite and lower the COG so it won't wanna tip over in turns, flip the rear upper and lower shock mounts.
Teflon tape the threds on the shocks, there prone to leaking. Personally I think the kit shocks are junk, I run 4" Losi comp crawler shocks and they work well. Others have had success running ProLine shocks for the front of a Slash on all 4 corners.
Do some reading here,
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-wraith/
Any questions, just ask. I've built 4 of them now so I know a little about them.

#9
Tech Rookie

i just upgrade the parts as and when i break them :-)
i bought some hot racing aluminium shocks and they were terrible, i then went on to buy some topcad aluminium shocks with piggy back (why? because they looked good!) would i do it again, no chance. the stock shocks are just as good as the ones i upgraded too, they just dont so good when you see the shining aluminium ones. save your cash for when you break some parts.
id post a vid link of mine on here but i havent made enough posts for them to trust me yet, so cheack out my channel on youtube under INTENSEWALKERA i have a few wraith videos on there and i keep adding to them.
i bought some hot racing aluminium shocks and they were terrible, i then went on to buy some topcad aluminium shocks with piggy back (why? because they looked good!) would i do it again, no chance. the stock shocks are just as good as the ones i upgraded too, they just dont so good when you see the shining aluminium ones. save your cash for when you break some parts.
id post a vid link of mine on here but i havent made enough posts for them to trust me yet, so cheack out my channel on youtube under INTENSEWALKERA i have a few wraith videos on there and i keep adding to them.
#10
Tech Rookie

I'm running the Castle Creations Sidewinder SCT combo in my wraith, great combo of speed and torque.
Like transambill said, check out rccrawler.com, lots of good info on crawlers there.
I moved my battery to the front of the truck, latteraly toward the rear of the hood. It helps get some of the wieght up front. I made a battery box out of .025" aluminum sheet metal.
Lowering the center of gravit helps too. I made shock mounts up front to move the mounting position of the front shocks higher. I mounted the rear shock mount structure (step 32 in the manual) upside down to raise the mounting position of the rear shock.
The part numbers in the manual are not very accurate.
Team fasteddy on youtube has an excellent step by step build of the wraith as well.
Like transambill said, check out rccrawler.com, lots of good info on crawlers there.
I moved my battery to the front of the truck, latteraly toward the rear of the hood. It helps get some of the wieght up front. I made a battery box out of .025" aluminum sheet metal.
Lowering the center of gravit helps too. I made shock mounts up front to move the mounting position of the front shocks higher. I mounted the rear shock mount structure (step 32 in the manual) upside down to raise the mounting position of the rear shock.
The part numbers in the manual are not very accurate.
Team fasteddy on youtube has an excellent step by step build of the wraith as well.
#11

If running stock driveshafts do the mod.(its on youtube). I used vp highsteering arms (great), hb steering link (okay),Move the batt upfront(next to the firewall,better for crawling) Used a small extension lead for servo and move esc to the rear (right behind seats) Flip the rear upper shock mount over (also shown on youtube),flip the front and rear lower link/shock mounts over. These will lower the c.o.g. and makes it alot more stable.
I use a mmp on 4cells,upgraded tranny gears,35t handwound-great wheelspeed and crawls pretty smooth. I dont weight my rims (helps keep driveline happy) but with the lowered c.o.g and batt upfront i dont see the need to weight the rims.
I use a mmp on 4cells,upgraded tranny gears,35t handwound-great wheelspeed and crawls pretty smooth. I dont weight my rims (helps keep driveline happy) but with the lowered c.o.g and batt upfront i dont see the need to weight the rims.
#12

Not sure if younhave the aluminum links but if not there is a guy on another site that makes and sells stainless steering/drag links as well as uppers and lowers. They are very good quality and really am pleased with mine. PM me if u need his info.
#13

If running stock driveshafts do the mod.(its on youtube). I used vp highsteering arms (great), hb steering link (okay),Move the batt upfront(next to the firewall,better for crawling) Used a small extension lead for servo and move esc to the rear (right behind seats) Flip the rear upper shock mount over (also shown on youtube),flip the front and rear lower link/shock mounts over. These will lower the c.o.g. and makes it alot more stable.
I use a mmp on 4cells,upgraded tranny gears,35t handwound-great wheelspeed and crawls pretty smooth. I dont weight my rims (helps keep driveline happy) but with the lowered c.o.g and batt upfront i dont see the need to weight the rims.
I use a mmp on 4cells,upgraded tranny gears,35t handwound-great wheelspeed and crawls pretty smooth. I dont weight my rims (helps keep driveline happy) but with the lowered c.o.g and batt upfront i dont see the need to weight the rims.
#15

Not enough post on this forum yet or i would post pics for you. But ill try to explain it.
Seperate the driveshafts
In the MALE END you will see its hollow
Stick a small object into it (to measure its depth-mark with a sharpy)
Then (i used an old axial aluminum link)
Cut it to the measured lenght of the previous measured one
It will be a very tight fit! But it will push into the MALE END
It should be flush
Now repeat for the other driveshaft!
With this mod the driveshaft is solid and wont fold into itself under high loads
Seperate the driveshafts
In the MALE END you will see its hollow
Stick a small object into it (to measure its depth-mark with a sharpy)
Then (i used an old axial aluminum link)
Cut it to the measured lenght of the previous measured one
It will be a very tight fit! But it will push into the MALE END
It should be flush
Now repeat for the other driveshaft!
With this mod the driveshaft is solid and wont fold into itself under high loads