Official Axial SCX 10 Thread
05-07-2011, 08:47 AM
#47
hi all im building a scx 10 from parts i have aquired .... i see in the manual it says to put on 106 mm on the rear lower side .... i have some high clearence ones that are 101 mm is that going to affect anything on there for 5 mm difference.... also what is the length of the link needed to make 4 links in front and rear on upper links thnx Will G
05-08-2011, 10:52 AM
#48
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
Hey Will, 5mm may make ya or break ya..not too sure honestly on that. I 4-linked the rear of my honcho the other day...huge difference, but I cant answer the length question. If you're using the plastic links, there should be 4 links on one parts tree....2 are longer and 2 are shorter. For my honcho, I used the shorter links and they fit perfect. The 5mm may affect you there too...if you're shorter on the bottom, you may have issues lining up the 4-link and end up screwing with the way your driveshafts line up...there again though, not sure...just something to think about when you build it. Actually, I was thinking I read on RCCrawler that you want the 106 links bottom and 98 top...I'll have to see if I can find that again and get back with ya. This is quoted from a member on RCCrawler...he explains better than I can lol--------
"if you are using the axial plastic 4 link truss then use 7-8mm shorter on the upper then the lower. so if you want to use the 91 use 82 or 83 this will put the pinion pointed right at the tranny. on mine i have 106 lowers and 98 uppers. or at times i have used 98 lowers 91 uppers still keeps the same pinion angle not sure if that helps or not"
And quoted from another member there-------
"On a 4-link suspension everybody says that you should use the same sized upper and lower links. Personally, it looks to me like the upper links should be 5-7 mm shorter than the bottoms, but I am new here and I haven't yet tried it myself. Once I relocate my servo to the frame and put an R2J truss on the front I'll have a bit more to say about that.
The safe place to start, with the Axial truss or the R2J truss, is to use the same sized links for both the uppers and lowers."
"if you are using the axial plastic 4 link truss then use 7-8mm shorter on the upper then the lower. so if you want to use the 91 use 82 or 83 this will put the pinion pointed right at the tranny. on mine i have 106 lowers and 98 uppers. or at times i have used 98 lowers 91 uppers still keeps the same pinion angle not sure if that helps or not"
And quoted from another member there-------
"On a 4-link suspension everybody says that you should use the same sized upper and lower links. Personally, it looks to me like the upper links should be 5-7 mm shorter than the bottoms, but I am new here and I haven't yet tried it myself. Once I relocate my servo to the frame and put an R2J truss on the front I'll have a bit more to say about that.
The safe place to start, with the Axial truss or the R2J truss, is to use the same sized links for both the uppers and lowers."
05-17-2011, 02:23 PM
#49
05-17-2011, 02:33 PM
#50
That f-250? has some insane spread on it!!
05-17-2011, 02:35 PM
#51
05-17-2011, 02:36 PM
#52
05-19-2011, 12:31 PM
#53
[QUOTE=JWSCTE;8977718]Axials are a great and fun Scale chassis you can do alot with them. Here is my LR3 and Jeep JK
Dude, I LOVE that Jeep! Is that the Pro-Line Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body??? I want to do one like that you have.
Dude, I LOVE that Jeep! Is that the Pro-Line Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body??? I want to do one like that you have.
05-22-2011, 02:00 PM
#55
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
[QUOTE=JWSCTE;9148467]Jammin' Driver, this Jeep body he's running ^^^ is the "swamp dawg" or "mud dawg"...something like that. It doesnt come factory silver. From what I read, they tend to be a pita if you dont know what you're doing to get the stock paint off. I dont know though, I havnt done one myself. They look pretty good in the end though when done right.
05-23-2011, 06:16 AM
#56
05-23-2011, 06:18 AM
#57
[QUOTE=Chicken_M109R;9148704]
I'm pretty good with paint and airbrushing and such, but have not done a kit-bash like this before. Is the New Bright model labeled as 1:10 or 1:8??
Jammin' Driver, this Jeep body he's running ^^^ is the "swamp dawg" or "mud dawg"...something like that. It doesnt come factory silver. From what I read, they tend to be a pita if you dont know what you're doing to get the stock paint off. I dont know though, I havnt done one myself. They look pretty good in the end though when done right.
05-26-2011, 04:47 AM
#60