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Unimog 1/10
I'm making this truck for a long time. It started as a pretty conventional build but it evolved. I'm not posting the first set of photos because they were lost when PhotoBucket went down.
Started as a scratchbuilt cab and bed,custom c-channel chassis and straight scx10 axles... These photos feature a completely new bed and portal axles https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ef4432ac_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...931c5114_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...47666faa_c.jpg |
This is the second bed I do for this truck:
First, the bottom: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/...d549b58a_b.jpg And then, one side: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4765/...0189ccb3_b.jpg Back: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/...89b4b852_b.jpg With primer: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/...f75fac8f_b.jpg It's the first time I've worked with tooling foil. It's fun stuff Scribed the all the lines and started with the "nails": https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/...eaa519a7_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4789/...50ab2e8f_b.jpg After all the nails, some black spray, a bit of sanding to do a kind of black wash,apply a heavy duty metal brush to do a wooden texture and finally the brown: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4792/...3ed1fb5d_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4774/...bb4f9e18_b.jpg more zoom! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/...9e5c6fd4_b.jpg[/url] Honestly, i was surprised with the result as the paint could fill the texture of the metal brush but turned out nice. A mate clear coat in the end will take the shine away More on the rear bed,has hinges, only need to replace the lower screws for shorter ones: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/2...c5891157_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/2...c64c94ee_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4777/...fd6dec49_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/2...e52a4f2c_b.jpg Very satisfied with the bed width, the bedsides drop perfectly |
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But, even like that, the truck needs updates,one being a slightly larger fuel tank and the other, adding a rear canvas to the bed, because it was one of my initial requirements,even before the start of the project
My current bed is fine but I've scrapped the idea of the canvas before because there's no way I can put functional hooks on the thin aluminum that's on the bedsides so I'll make a brand new bed for this purpose This time, I'll print the bedsides because of my current personal situation, and doing the floor and struture as before,with wood and PVC sheet 2 prints, 1 side: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c43caafa_b.jpg How the corners would look like https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...962e676b_b.jpg Giving some wooden texture to the PVC https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3c29d9c4_b.jpg Small nails to mimic round head bolts securing the planks https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d069ec2b_b.jpg Black for panel gaps https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9c2bf367_b.jpg Painted in a colour that should be brown but it's more like dark olive drab so it will stay https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4a80f57a_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...705d04de_b.jpg Next is prepping the sides to paint and attach |
Mudguards printed and painted
https://i.imgur.com/IhGnkvsl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4KqbGQFl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5uobma7l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eZVW7rTl.jpg |
Well, things are going slow...was anxious to get the metal stuff done to pass the bed to the lady who will do the tarp.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3cb37d09_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...29d14a3b_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7dc57e99_b.jpg At first, I will only make the front and rear arch like the real ones but all my reference photos were from 4x4s. This long bed would need one more,atleast The archs are 4mm stainless steel and the rest 3mm. The feet are steel, brazed to the archs.Was planning to braze everything but I'm quicker with the TIG. |
One more random detail for the 'mog
https://i.imgur.com/wYe6BE4l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8Garqehl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hz05B8ml.jpg I live in a rough neighbourhood :) The tailgate is almost painted and ready to be mounted. Did one of the bench seat but maybe I'll put only one and left the space left for cargo https://i.imgur.com/OYiqgTjl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZJEgUREl.jpg |
Printed a pair of improved functional tailgate hinges to be glued to the bed. They're printed in one piece, let's hope they hold
https://i.imgur.com/v5MUq0Vl.jpg Tailgate with the hooks. Not shown, are the rubber stops(printed in TPU because scale :) ) https://i.imgur.com/6I2gw9Zl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dLnT3Dol.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8k70o44h.jpg Closed latch https://i.imgur.com/YaTxiifh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Grw8S8hh.jpg A printed hinge. https://i.imgur.com/J17IN3gh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mFQ4Rl3h.jpg I'm very excited how it turned out.Anxious to get it on the trails |
Because the truck has to function properly,I've improved the rear shocks to handle the extra weight.
The old ones weren't shock absorbers at all, were pretty and scale but there was no o-rings on the shaft so they couldn't hold the oil. So , found these 60mm shocks for cheap and took the springs out and filled with 1000 oil: https://i.imgur.com/QCLJ1KQh.jpg They only problem is that they are made for m2.5 hardware and couldn't find 4.8mm balls for m3 so did these ones: https://i.imgur.com/icNvazih.jpg https://i.imgur.com/r2dfc0jh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GXMap3Qh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ad78ogWh.jpg Don't like them upside down but unfortunately,this was the only way to mount them... Another detail that was buggin me was mounting this tow hitch https://i.imgur.com/UoS5LfCh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5RL4jwVh.jpg Got the hitch from eBay, some M2 scale bolts and printed the frame around it Don't mind the rust. It's almost ready to be painted |
Great work!
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Originally Posted by Smokeyr67
(Post 15908254)
Great work!
Well,in my opinion, 3D printing is cool but when we only print scale acessories, we're just scratching the surface of it's true potential The Moose axles being released free maybe clicked in my brain and came back from an old idea of making a full axle for the unimog. The problem is that I like this truck but the ugly axles seem out of place. Adding to that the front axle is a Frankenstein that i don't know how it never failed So,I've started to design from scratch,heavily influenced by the now discontinued SSD D60 axle housing. This housing will have all the features of the old one like being 20mm narrower to compensate to portal boxes,panhard mount, spring perches,spherical ends, 7° of caster and 3rd link mount. The pumpkin is small as the stock gears allow... Front: https://i.imgur.com/ZL9MKVHl.jpg back: https://i.imgur.com/h4uhW7Ll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5vKHzral.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SMRg66sl.jpg Like the Stones said: "I see a red axle and I want it painted black" :) https://i.imgur.com/ba2ji1Ph.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kBhML0Jh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/pIsib3bh.jpg more subtle... |
After a lot of time without trails,finally did it!!
Took the JK, the M548 and the 'mog to drive a little. Ended driving the Unimog a lot more than the others https://i.imgur.com/xFo9n6Ch.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NyJU80Ph.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vrGckuvh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/W5gi4nAh.jpg Tried an easy line with sucess and was doing slightly harder lines and the truck was doing great...ended in one that I was positive that will fail...but the truck managed to climb. In 1st gear of course |
That previous axle sparked an old idea of making 100% printed axles based on the real ones. A few years ago I worked on that, having housings printed but the big scx10 internals didn't allowed to do them small and nice. Fast forward to the present and adding to my improved 3d skills,we have more choice of diff parts
Someone suggested TRX4 diff gears and using lockable diff. Was a great idea but the parts are too expensive.Remember that I need 4 sets to make 3 axles. Went to scx10.2 gears from Ebay and they seem good, nice machining and finish The issue was doing the gear mesh because of the "high pinion" feature but after a few tries, is done Doesn't seems but it works: https://i.imgur.com/qcJDS1Ih.jpg I'm aiming for this,2 halves: https://i.imgur.com/1Z3FLPrh.png The angle on the pinions is because torque tubes(like the real Unimog) are a possibility. |
just to keep this going:
My transfer case was a 2s Helios, nice case but big. Wasn't able to center it and adapting the torquetubes to it would be a PITA so, Plan B: https://i.imgur.com/0kqJmHI.png This transfer case has everything integrated and it's small as possible. Uses stock scx10 gears so is easy to repair. Could used smaller gears but the torquetube mounts will always be this size so there was no advantages Here, everything mocked up with the v1 transfer case(above is the v2,not as tall) https://i.imgur.com/G8nphxah.jpg This transfer case will bolt to a new skidplate to mount the transfer box as centered as I could. The torquetubes require that. The skidplate sits lower than the older one but I think that wouldn't be a problem, this is a scale truck afterall Quick mockup: https://i.imgur.com/wsOuRH6h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uy65QeXh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZsFjsdHh.jpg Missed the torquetube length by a couple of milimeters but the real ones will be machined from aluminium so it's fine The rear trackbar mounts are in place. Need to redo the motor mount and wait for the diff bearings to arrive. My plan is to complete and mount an axle before moving to the next one |
I realize now why I don't see many projects with torquetubes. This have a unique set of challenges
Speaking of torquetubes, did the definitive ones, they were 3d printed one at first to confirm the length and if everything worked. So, now in aluminium: https://i.imgur.com/PelMwNch.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lNzYQ3Xh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Y0K8NQEh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ZNHNNBph.jpg |
How to extend the diff pinion shaf:
On SCX10 gears, this would be easier: a longer shaft where the pinion fit...the pinion on scx10.2 has the shaft incorporated. So, I had the option of welding a shaft but would have to repeat that if I wanted to change the pinion. There was not space inside the torquetube to do something with a grub screw holding the 2 parts So, the idea replaces the grub screw with a 2.5mm metal rod,hammered in the ends, like a rivet. This way, I can replace the pinion shaft and bearings https://i.imgur.com/2wx6hS2h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/bvQ3YzFh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/98gSZ2Kh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eK73aqzh.jpg |
Did these reinforcement rods, like the real one has and could mount everything to test
https://i.imgur.com/WwuRrhFh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4pk9ASjh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LGZ6FIih.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1LAiBzNh.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/JJrcps1h.jpeg |
this is a close-up of the housing. 0.2 layer height
https://i.imgur.com/yFxu3nph.jpg |
Printed the 3rd axle and it's in place(need to take pics), 2nd axle is still being modeled. Didn't have the time to sit and finish it properly.
But I've made this: https://i.imgur.com/HVOMVUUh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qE7CgRCh.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/kbzNEU2h.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/xtEvp9Rh.jpg My steering was like this before: It was to try to make it more scale and also hide the servo. Well, it kind of worked. Even with a 25kg servo, it seemed to lack torque and in bad spots, the servo just won't turn the wheels. Besides, tie-rods hit each other. So, simple is better and now the servo is mounted on the bumper. Made 2 brass mounts and the servo is angled to clear the bottom of the cab and also the servo horn(+rod-end) clear the steering rod |
Now that the 3rd axle is in place with proper links, tackled the most difficult axle, the 2nd. Figured the angle difference between the 2 shafts via basic prototypes and then did the full axle model
This is one of halves: https://i.imgur.com/aaSBT7Lh.png Printed one of this axle halves horizontally like the other axles but ended being weak on the portal box end,so tried something new. Printing vertically will make both ends stronger and better finished but the tube weaker so enlarged the bore in the model to accept a 8mm tube drilled to clear the shaft https://i.imgur.com/6AfCtUbh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0EoKtVNh.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/Cup35iUh.jpeg |
Fitted a new and stronger 1:5 planetary gearbox because the old one was too slow(1:9)
https://i.imgur.com/fiYZCEFh.jpg And assembled almost everything to do some real world tests https://i.imgur.com/k7JktGth.jpg https://i.imgur.com/54mbrdXh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2c3sHcih.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/KNYtUbLh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BSPVzVYh.jpg After this, I'll disassemble everything to paint the chassis and mount the spare, fuel tank and exhaust |
Nothing better than real world testing:
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I took it apart to fix some things and paint the chassis. Was to paint the wheels but paint ran out...Someone told to paint it black but...all chassis are black...
https://i.imgur.com/Io5LdPXh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0mfJEVzh.jpg Did the fuel tank mounts in TPU to bend instead of breaking like the old ones... I'm in the process of assemble each axle with proper bolts,gear mesh and correct tolerances. Also, I'm adding lights which are my Achilles heel. Not hard stuff but not a big fan :) |
A small thing I've done some time ago and put aside until now. It's 3D printed and the bends were done with heat.
https://i.imgur.com/rk2nQE5h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7O1SCd3h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ixReWBph.jpg |
A curiosity:
3D printing is a awesome tool but not everything can came out like it should. Sealed Bearings are tricky pieces and demand precision. On the first axles, used the Dremel to proper seat the pinion bearings but was much of a guesswork.To little and the axles halves doesn't close, too much and the bearing gets loose Did this improvised cutter with the right diameter and spacing: https://i.imgur.com/xECoLvlh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/T6xgqZ3h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/newa1kuh.jpg Simply fit it and screw the halves while rotating the tool. There's no chance of cutting too much |
A small test drive to test everything
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There's not much to do on this truck,besides finish the lights(which I'm doing in the right mood :) )
I've got some AK weathering pencils and wanted to try them. Saw the mirrors scratched from the trails and decided to apply some rust instead of touching up with OD green https://i.imgur.com/nHnH2vxh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/BBoIE2zh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/VJ5lc7Eh.jpg This is my first try to do rust |
When I've added the rubber around the windshield, tried the same on the side windows but couldn't glue the tube around that smaller opening and quit. Now,I'm back to it with a different approach
Paper template and then passed to PVC sheet: https://i.imgur.com/dFm0hxxh.jpg First cuts: https://i.imgur.com/7HjdBG9h.jpg After some sanding: https://i.imgur.com/sj5lfNFh.jpg And painted: https://i.imgur.com/2TPBqX0h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/gepkS1Hh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QR3YWzAh.jpg |
Decided to improve some things:
https://i.imgur.com/1evcqH8h.png This is the new upgraded transfer case. Same dimensions to fit the skidplate. Designed around these new 24t M1 pinions instead of the stock scx10 gearbox gears. The idea was to get rid of the 1:1.7 redution(truck was painfully slow) and try to connect to the 3rd axle via this pinion on the right that will have an output shaft facing the rear,instead of the 2nd axle being a pass-through. Case printed in PLA+,gears are steel, running on 7x14 bearings and ignore those 5x10 bearings that are only spacers https://i.imgur.com/bW6yD90h.jpg |
Was doing some tweaks on the rear axles:
https://i.imgur.com/k25Quoih.png I was about to doing a centered 3rd axle but I've offset the pumpkin 15mm to improve driveshaft angles. From reference photos, this model of Unimog axles are slight offset so no harm done :) Modified the portal covers, making them stronger without messing much with the look. Printed 4 but did 2 more and upgraded also the front axle. https://i.imgur.com/LyLAyQYh.jpg Middle axle: https://i.imgur.com/XfFlIhhh.jpg Third axle https://i.imgur.com/3NE7AcBh.jpg Because the offset diff of the third axle, had to do new unequal shafts https://i.imgur.com/3joXH3Lh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sr5SYf8h.jpg Middle axle with the driveshaft bearing carrier https://i.imgur.com/8FmgBHnh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jczrMGGh.jpg Assembled...have to organize all the wiring again... https://i.imgur.com/oQSIYych.jpg |
Did this to move the battery to a more practical location
https://i.imgur.com/9Xglch6h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TqDIfWRh.jpg I'm planning add some sort of connector on the bottom in order to take out the whole box to replace the battery instead of doing "finger olimpics" inside the cargo area |
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Time for change...
One thing I think I need to improve in this truck is the front axle width. Wheels stick out from the fenders and there's too much scrub radius from the added width of the portal boxes,making the tires rub So I've gather some parts and make new portal boxes: https://i.imgur.com/0I67WBSh.png Yes, they look similar,albeit being made from scratch instead of copying the old ones. I'm using a 12t portal gear and universal shafts from Capra. The big gear is the same 25t 32dp pinion but inverted(The section where the grub screw is fits perfectly on a 10x15x4 bearing! At the moment, each portal box measures 5,5mm less than the old ones which is great. I can narrow the axle housing if needed,even if it don't solve the scrub radius problem |
Everything seems to be going well
Printed the 2 knuckles and 2 covers. Mounted, match the estimate of 11mm narrower axle. Doesn't seem much but is very noticeable with the cab. At the moment, I'm printing a updated axle housing half. Only had to change a driveshaft bearing position by 1mm to fit the new Capra uni shafts https://i.imgur.com/WdjcRujh.jpg Before vs. now: https://i.imgur.com/Ppjh7Cqh.jpg |
I'm not that happy with the printed files. They are strong but don't look that good. For now,they'll suffice but I'll try to improve. Switched ASA to PLA+ and helicoils to thread directly on plastic. Helicoils are cool but sometimes they would unscrew itself.
As it stands: https://i.imgur.com/SEGke8dh.jpg It has the diff,bearings and torquetube. Uni shafts turn smoothly so the dimensions seem right. Just need to shorten them 15mm each to be mounted in place |
Assembled them, taking care of some rubbing.
https://i.imgur.com/HAE2D2Yh.jpg On the truck , visually,there's virtually no diference altough being a brand new axle. Also, got rid of the helicoil threads. Was a bit of work, putting all of them and not always were strong as I thought . The panhard screw was always loose https://i.imgur.com/84MBRFqh.jpg |
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