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Soze rejoices the Traxxas TRX4 Sport Kit

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Soze rejoices the Traxxas TRX4 Sport Kit

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Old 03-28-2019, 01:06 AM
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Default Soze rejoices the Traxxas TRX4 Sport Kit

Traxxas.... Kit.... Two things that I never thought would go together again since the 80's. Yes, they did come out with that chassis kit with all the electronic doo-dads that I didn't want... so I passed on it. They came out with a TRX4 Sport which is exactly what I wanted from the platform, but no kit was in sight, so I bought the RTR. Lo and behold... The day finally came where Traxxas released what I think a lot of others besides myself were clamoring for. Insta-buy.

My build is going to start out pretty much stock at first, and maybe deviate a little once I tie-up my multi-other projects that I'm working on. I think I bit off more than I could chew grabbing most of the other base platforms out there from other manufacturers at the same time.

Let's begin...




Build Details


Kit:

Traxxas TRX4 Sport Kit (ebay)


Parts:

1.9" Alloy Beadlock Wheels (ebay)
Traxxas 8080 Inner Fenders (ebay)
Traxxas 8053 45T Spur Gear (ebay)
Robinson Racing 12T 32P Pinion (ebay)
Slipper Pads from Traxxas 8254 Slipper Clutch Rebuild Kit (ebay)
TRX4 Aluminum Motor Mount (ebay)
Adjustable Shock Mount C-Hubs
Adjustable Shock Mount Rear Hubs
Metal Inner Portal Knuckles


Electronics:

Turnigy MG959 V2 Servo (eBay)
Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster Sport 550 21T Brushed motor (eBay)
FlySky GR3E 2.4GHz 3-Channel Receiver (eBay)
FlySky GT-3C 2.4 GHz Radio (eBay)
HobbyWing Quicrun WP-1080 Esc (ebay)
HobbyStar 3S 3700mah LiPo (ebay)

Tools:

Versachem Brake Caliper Grease (ebay)
Permatex Anti Seize Lubricant (ebay)
Tamiya Side Cutter (ebay)
Protek RC Shock Pliers (eBay)
DEWALT DCF610S2R 12V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Hex Chuck Screwdriver Kit (ebay)
MIP Metric Speed Tip Set MIP9512 (ebay)
Associated 1656 FT 1/4 in Driver Handle (ebay)
Duratrax Shock stand (ebay)
Bob Smith Industries Blue Thread locker (eBay)
Multistar Rubber R/C Work mat

Paint:

Tamiya PS-5 Black (ebay)
Tamiya PS-30 Brilliant Blue (ebay)
Tamiya PS-23 Gunmetal (ebay)
Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear (ebay)
Plasti-Dip (ebay)
Tamiya 5mm Masking tape for Curves (ebay)
Frog Tape (for general masking) (ebay)

Last edited by soze; 07-28-2019 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 03-28-2019, 01:07 AM
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Section A: Transmission Assembly


We start off with the transmission. Section A.


Here is the parts bag for Section A.




Step A1 Parts




Step A1 complete




Step A2 parts




Step A2 complete




Step A3 parts






Step A3 complete






Parts for Step A4




Step A4 complete




Step A5 parts




Step A5 complete




Step A6 parts




Step A6 complete




Step A7 parts




Step A7 completed




And that's all for the "Transmission Assembly" - Section A
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Old 03-28-2019, 01:39 PM
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Section B: Rear Axle Assembly

Yay, we move on to the axles!


You need this rear axle parts bag.




You also need the spool bag.




Step B1 Parts




Step B1 Complete




Step B2 parts




I think some have had issues with getting the diff plugs go though easily, but it didn't seem to be an issue on my build at all.

The e-clips on the other hand.... yeah we all know by now that I hate e-clips.


Step B2 complete




Parts for Step B3




You need to be very careful with the ball bearing sizes used in this step. The 5x11x4mm bearing is shown with blue shield in the instructions, but in reality it's black. So carefully measure the bearing sizes, or just match it up with the instructions since it's 1:1 scale.

Step B3 complete




Parts for Step B4




Step B4 complete. Make sure to not overtighten the diff cover.




Parts for Step B5




What I liked about the parts for this step is that the parts clearly had identifying markers for which part goes on the left and right. Nothing left up to vagueness.


Step B5 complete.




Parts for Step B6




Again, with this step, you need to carefully match up the ball bearing sizes. The 6x12x4mm is shown with blue shield in the instruction manual, but they are all black shielded. Measure carefully, or match up carefully with 1:1 illustration in the instruction manual.


Step B6 complete




Parts for Step B7




Step B7 complete. In the picture it looks like I used too much grease, but that's not the amount that it actually ended up with. What I usually do is pack the grease on thick, close up the assembly and give it a good few rotations to spread the grease out, then remove the excess. Didn't bother to or rather forgot to another picture post excess removal though.




Parts for Step B8




Step B8 complete. Be sure not to over-tighten the screws in this step.




Step B9 parts




Step B9 complete




Parts for Step B10




No need for fiddly pins that fall out of the hexes! Thank you Traxxas! Was nice that this kit comes with metal wheel hexes and locking screw pins.


Step B10 complete






And... we're done with Section B - Rear Axle Assembly.
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Old 03-28-2019, 01:39 PM
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Section C: Front Axle Assembly


You'll need the front axle parts bag.





Steps C1- C4 are pretty much the same as the rear axle assembly steps B1-B4, so I'll skip over those.


Parts for Step C5




Step C5 complete




Step C6 is the same as rear axle Step B6




Parts for Step C7






Also trying out/starting to use Permatex anti-seize on my CVD/Universal joints.




You can put on a little of it, and it spreads really easily and evenly with a few rotations.




Versachem grease on the gears




Step C7 complete




Parts for Step C8




Step C8 complete




Step C9 is basically the same as rear axle Step B10 except one of the link mounts is now a link mount + panhard mount.




And now we're done with Section C - Front Axle Assembly.


We now have a set of TRX4 Sport axles!

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Old 03-28-2019, 01:39 PM
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Section D: Chassis Assembly

Can start to see the build coming together now.


Here is the parts bag that you'll need.






You'll need these for Step D1




Step D1 complete




Parts for Step D2




Once again, it's nice that Traxxas clearly marked pieces with FR, FL, RR, RL so that there is no confusion which brackets go where.


Step D2 complete




Step D3 parts




Step D3 complete




Parts for Step D4




Step D4 complete




Parts for Step D5




Step D5 complete




Parts for Step D6




Step D6 complete




Parts for Step D7 - you'll notice one 3x10mm is missing. It was missing from my parts bag, but I had a spare one from my parts bins.




Step D7 complete




That's all for Section D: Chassis Assembly
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:13 PM
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Section E: Electronics Installation

So as far as electronics go, I'll be using the following:

Turnigy MG959 V2 Servo (eBay)
Holmes Hobbies Trailmaster Sport 550 21T Brushed motor (eBay)
FlySky GR3E 2.4GHz 3-Channel Receiver (eBay)
FlySky GT-3C 2.4 GHz Radio (eBay)
HobbyWing Quicrun WP-1080 Esc (ebay)


You'll need the electronics parts bag for this section




Step E1 Parts




Step E1 complete. Fits like a glove.




Step E2 parts




You'll notice that I'm using the stock 17T pinion, and the stock 39T spur from the earlier transmission step. I'm building it as is initially as I'm using the Holmes Hobbies 21T 550 motor instead of the Traxxas 21T Titan Reverse 550. I've already purchased the 45T spur + pads and 12T/13T pinions to be used later.


Using a Holmes Hobbies 550 21T Trailmaster Sport. I really should swap to using bullet plugs, but I've got a bunch of Tamiya style connectors in my parts... and it just makes sense to use them.




So the Holmes Hobbies motor shaft is shorter than a Traxxas Titan motor shaft, so I had to mount the pinion the opposite way from what the instructions wanted.




With the stock 17T pinion + 39T spur, we'll be using the "C" mounting hole on the motor mount. I might look into updating this part later on.




Step E2 complete




Parts for Step E3




Step E3 complete. Using a FlySky GR3E receiver so there were a few challenges in regards to the length of antenna, receiver wire lengths, etc.




Step E4 parts




Using a Turnigy MG959v2 servo that I had on hand for now.




Step E4 complete




Step E5 had two 3x12mm screws used for mounting the Traxxas esc. I'm using a Hobbywing Quicrun WP1080, so those weren't needed.






Step E6 parts




Step E6 complete. You can see I rotated my receiver around. I did it to accomodate wire lengths. I'm still playing around with it to see if I can get the receiver light to line up with the receiver light window on the case.




Step E7 Parts




Step E8 is basically routing the wires to the receiver and securing them with the included zip ties. I had to create 2 wire extensions as neither the servo nor the esc wire was long enough to reach the inside of the box comfortably. It looks like I'll have to create 2 more longer ones so that I can turn the receiver around to the other orientation and hopefully line up the light to the light case light window.






Parts for Step E9




You need to grease the foam seal on the receiver box outlet




Receiver box o-ring in place




Step E9 completed. Receiver box all closed up.






Parts for step E10






Step E10 completed. I have a feeling this is going to be coming off eventually for a 3D printed low center of gravity tray in the future.






Parts for step E11. Metal servo horn included!




Step E11 complete




That completes Section E - Electronics Assembly!

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Old 03-29-2019, 01:52 AM
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Nice!

I will have that RC in a near future either with my Range Rover 2 door body or the Patrol Y61 body! :P

Thanks for sharing. When have it, i will look at these follow ups!
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Old 04-03-2019, 12:29 AM
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Section F: Suspension & Driveline

It's continuing to come together!


This part of the build requires these bags.




Step F1 uses these pre-built shocks. {commercial voice}Just add oil!{/commercial voice}




The only thing you need to assemble in this step is the oil nozzle for the shock oil bottle.




Getting ready to do some oil filling with my trusty ProTek RC Shock Pliers...




Step F1 complete....Doh! I forgot to take finished shock pictures... It's ok, you'll get to see them later.


Time to move onto the links with this bag... with the pre-assembled links...




Step F2 Parts




F2 complete




Step F3 parts...




Step F3 complete




Lining up the proper links for step F4




Also need these screws




Step F4 Complete




Step F5 parts




F5 complete








What we need for step F6




F6 complete.




Screws needed for Step F7




F7 complete










Final bag we need for this section




Step F8 parts




RED ALERT! One of the output drives is defective with the slots cut at an angle instead of straight up and down. This caused the driveshaft to bind.






Called up Traxxas.
me - "Hey, um... I just bought a TRX4 Sport kit, and one of the parts is defective."
Traxxas - "what part is it, and what's the part number?"
me - "It's the output drive that you can find in part# 8295"
Traxxas - "what's your name and address?"
me - "My name is #####, and my address is #####..."
Traxxas - "ok we'll send one out to you right away"
me - "That's it?"
Traxxas - "That's it!"


Few days later this showed up in the mailbox. Back in business!




Old on left, new on the right.




Due to technical difficulties... Step F8 took the longest, but it's now complete.




Parts for Step F9




Step F9 complete.




And with that we are complete with "Section F: Suspension & Driveline"
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:02 PM
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Section G: Final Chassis Assembly

Coming to the home stretch of this build!


These are the parts for Step G1.




Pay attention to the rotation direction for the tires as they are directional. I will not be gluing on the tires and using the wheels even though I think they look decent, because I much prefer using beadlock wheels. I'm going to give these tires a shot first stock, and modded with siping/cutting.




For the rest of this section you will need the "Body Mounting Bag"




These are the parts for step G2




Step G2 complete. Crossmembers mounted on.




You need these parts for step G3




Make sure you pay attention to the direction of the posts.




Step G3 complete








These are the parts you need for step G4






So, I encountered my second issue with this kit. I was missing a 3x10 screw. At this point of the build, I should have 12 total 3x10mm BCS screws. I had 11. This is where Traxxas probably should give some extra hardware in case they miscount.

Putting together the front bumper assembly requires 2 3x10mm and 1 2.6x8mm. Luckily, I had an extra 3x10mm screw that I poached from my GMADE GOM box of parts.


Step G4 Complete.






You need these parts for step G5




Step G5 complete. Eagle eyes will notice that I have the sliders on the wrong sides. Not to worry, they have since been correctly put on the correct sides (left --> right & right --> left).




This completes "Section G: Final Chassis Assembly"!
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:01 PM
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Section H: Body Assembly

Let's wrap this build up in stock form and get this thread ready for upgrade and crawling updates.


So, the weather finally warmed up, and I got around to painting the body. I used the following for getting this body done.

Paint:
Tamiya PS-5 Black
Tamiya PS-30 Brilliant Blue
Tamiya PS-23 Gunmetal
Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear
Plasti-Dip

Masking:
Tamiya 5mm Masking tape for Curves
Frog Tape (for general masking)


Here's the end result for the body.






Here's the Tamiya 5mm Masking tape for Curves that I used.




Frog Tape for general masking duties.




You'll need these parts for Section H




These are the parts for Step H1






Step H1 complete




These are the parts for step H2.






I encountered my 3rd Issue with the kit. You'll notice that one 2.5x8mm screw is missing. I should have a total of 10, but I only had 9 left during this stage of the build. Again, wish there was some extra hardware to cover. Luckily, I was able to snag yet another screw from my parts for other trucks.


Step H2 complete
















Here are the parts for Step H3






Eagle eyes will see in that picture above that I used the wrong 3x8mm FCS screws. There are actually 2 styles of 3x8mm screws with that big flat FCS head. One uses 2mm hex driver, the other uses 2.5mm. I will show the differences further below.


I also took this opportunity to add a little sharpie + paint marker detailing to the scale parts. Not a perfect job by any means, but good enough to not look like 1 color plastic bits.




Step H3 complete






Again, I used the wrong screws on these rotopacks




These are the parts you need for Step H4






Step H4 complete






You need these parts for Step H5






Step H5 complete (still the wrong screws on the rotopacks)








So getting the final step H6.... I discovered I used the wrong 3x8mm FCS screws for the rotopacks. There are two types of 3x8mm FCS screws included in the kit. One type uses 2mm hex drivers and the other 2.5mm hex drivers. The one with the bigger flat head and 2mm fitting is used for the rotopacks. The rest are for mounting the Expedition cage onto the body.

The top FCS screw is for the rotopacks.




The right screw is the correct one.




You'll need these parts for step H6






Step H6 complete









And that completes "Section H: Body assembly"!


The build in stock form is now complete!
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:06 PM
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You didn't think I forgot to give you guys the complete finished look did you?

I'll try to get some better pictures with better lighting up soon, but for now these will do.

Here's some pictures of it all finished up.



















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Old 04-23-2019, 02:02 PM
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very nice truck. I like the add-on rack, but I really don't have the time to build. I may go for a RTR, and add the rack accessory.
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:59 AM
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I was very intrigued when I saw this kit on Traxxas' website but I was a bit disappointed that it doesn't appear to come with lockable differentials and ability to switch gears. Have some questions about this if you have the time to answer Is there a work around to get this to work, without adding a tonne of expenses?

I haven't been doing a lot in RC since I started a year ago. As such I don't have a lot of experience but I'm now getting more involved again..

My favourite model currently is my Traxxas Summit (out of UDR, E-Revo 2.0, Arrma Senton 6s) and some more. Never thought it but I really like crawling most Great way to play with my nephew as well; nice and slow the Summit is.

If it is possible to get the remote locking differentials on this one, which motor/ESC would you use?
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rcguyfpr View Post
very nice truck. I like the add-on rack, but I really don't have the time to build. I may go for a RTR, and add the rack accessory.
If you get the RTR, You'd need to add the Rack accessory, and also the plastic molded front grille and rear tail light assembly. Otherwise you'll just have decals for the front grille & lights and the rear lights.

Originally Posted by HelsRike View Post
I was very intrigued when I saw this kit on Traxxas' website but I was a bit disappointed that it doesn't appear to come with lockable differentials and ability to switch gears. Have some questions about this if you have the time to answer Is there a work around to get this to work, without adding a tonne of expenses?

I haven't been doing a lot in RC since I started a year ago. As such I don't have a lot of experience but I'm now getting more involved again..

My favourite model currently is my Traxxas Summit (out of UDR, E-Revo 2.0, Arrma Senton 6s) and some more. Never thought it but I really like crawling most Great way to play with my nephew as well; nice and slow the Summit is.

If it is possible to get the remote locking differentials on this one, which motor/ESC would you use?
You can always buy the more expensive chassis kit (ebay link). That one comes with the lockable diffs, all the electronics required (servos, esc, transmitter, receiver, motor). It just doesn't come with a body.

To get the sport kit with lockable diffs, you'll have to buy the required servos + cables/parts etc. The Axles are capable of it, but just don't have all the parts.

If you really want the lockable diffs I think the chassis kit with all the electronics (ebay link) or one of the non-sport RTRs is the way to go.
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Old 06-21-2019, 12:10 AM
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These wheels might work?

1.9" Alloy Beadlock Wheels (ebay)

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