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Soze's HoBao DC1 Kit Build

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Soze's HoBao DC1 Kit Build

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Old 04-16-2018, 11:01 AM
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Default Soze's HoBao DC1 Kit Build

So... I got my hands on the new HoBao DC1 Kit. Many of you might know HoBao as having a great value with their kits like the 1/8 scale buggy Hyper VSe.

Aside from the less than ideal link mount on the axle... everything else looks pretty good. We'll see how things turn out as I go through this build.

Build Details:
HoBao DC1 Kit (available on eBay)
Boom Racing 25T Alloy Servo Horn

Electronics:
Hobbywing WP-1060 Brushed ESC
HoBao HB-5518MG 18.6kg servo also available on eBay
HoBao HB-933MG 3Kg Digital servo
HoBao 550 27T Brushed Motor (available on eBay)

Tools:
Versachem Brake Caliper Grease
Turnigy Metric Torque Wrench Hex Driver Set
Tamiya Side Cutter
Protek RC Shock Pliers (available on eBay)
DEWALT DCF610S2R 12V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Hex Chuck Screwdriver Kit
MIP Metric Speed Tip Set MIP9512
Noleen SF3 Grease (on eBay)
Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station







Last edited by soze; 04-19-2018 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:01 AM
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A quick look at what's included in the box...

Frame rails



Bag #3


Scale dashboard with steering wheel!


Shocks


Metal Gears


Heatsink included


CVDs included


Links look to be pretty solid


Bag #5


A look at the diff locker in the bag


Lexan body


Lexan seats


Transfer case parts


My friend included a brushed motor, not included in kit.


My friend included steering servo and shifting servo! Not included in kit though.


My friend included rebranded Hobbywing 1060 (MST kits also use this). Not included in kit though.


Includes 5 wheels and tires

Last edited by soze; 04-16-2018 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:02 AM
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Steps 1-5: Transmission & Transfer Case

Starting off with Bag 1




Contents of Bag 1










Step 1 Complete




Working on Step 2




Shift gear on the left, Hi & Lo gear on the shaft back right



Step 2 Complete




Step 3 Complete




Using the HoBao 550 can 27T brushed motor that my friend included. I'm guessing this is what comes with the RTR




Step 4 Complete. Setting the gear mesh is a little more challenging than usual with that heatsink assembly in the way. But you can see through the holes... do it by feel and there are holes to let you tighten down the motor.



Starting on the transfer case for Step 5




Step 5 complete


Last edited by soze; 04-17-2018 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:15 AM
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Steps 6-13: Chassis rails & Links

This build is a little different than most other kits I've built. Most other crawler kits start off with building the axles first. This kit starts off building the transmission and chassis rail up first. HoBao being mainly a touring, buggy kit maker... I can sort of understand maybe why they did it this way out of familiarity.

Anyway, on to the build.


Starting Step 6. Notice the indentations in the chassis rails for the skid plate and brackets?






Step 6 complete




Step 7 is mounting motor and transmission onto frame. Notice again, the indentation in the frame for the motor mount. Definitely different than most trucks, and I'm assuming more stable.








Transfer case mounted




Top part of drive shafts added




Starting on the links in Step 8





Links done




Links mounted




Step 9 is putting together the receiver box and putting the servo horn on the shift servo. My friend gave me a HoBao HB-933MG 3Kg Digital servo for the shift servo. I'm assuming this is what comes with the RTR. I wonder if it's a rebrand of something.




Step 10 & 11 is mounting the electronics to the radio tray/side rail assembly and having the rock sliders mounted on as well.






Steps 12 & 13 is mounting the side rails and shock hoops onto the chassis frame.






Notice how it has rubber grommets in center. I wonder what those will be for.

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Old 04-18-2018, 08:24 PM
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Nice step by step photos.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-19-2018, 09:45 AM
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Steps 14-15: Shift linkage, Panhard, and Steering Servo mounting

Here's a look at the shift linkage




Shift mechanism mounted up




Panhard mount






Using the HoBao HB-5518MG 18.6kg servo my friend threw in. Not sure what rebranded servo this is... maybe another JX.




Servo mounted up




I'm using a Boom Racing 25T Low profile aluminum clamping servo horn for now, but the length of the hole isn't quite right when compared to the stock plastic one. The hole on the stock plastic one is in between the 2 holes on the Boom Racing horn. I'll take a deeper look when the steering rod and axles are mounted up.

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Old 04-21-2018, 07:12 AM
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Can't wait to see it done and running.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:15 PM
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Steps 16-25 - Axles

Alright, we're getting to the fun part and some "different" ways of doing things.


Two bags for the axles.




So here's the first "different" way of doing things.... axles use 3 piece housings.




Parts for the gears, locker, and a diff gear mount/carriage?




One side of the axle put together






Diff assembly is a little different from others




Diff assembly mounts/carriage




The mount/carriage does make it easy to slide and secure the diff gear in there. Also if you look at the housing, you could easily swap the direction of the gear.






Axle housing bolted up




Front CVDs






Steering knuckles. The steering link mount is a metal plate screwed into the knuckle.




Steering knuckle, CHUB and CVDs all put together




All mounted up to the axle housing




Steering links added




Rear axle put together




Front axle mounted up to chassis




Rear axle mounted up to chassis

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Old 04-25-2018, 10:24 AM
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Steps 26-28 - Shocks

So again, we see some different way of doing things....at least as far as crawlers are concerned. Overall the shocks seem like good quality with a minor issue as far as the piston goes. The piston was a little too "sticky/snug" on two of them. I could probably fix it by sanding down the sides a little.

Here is the instruction step showing what goes into building these shocks. I particularly like the bottom end with the flanged washers and o-ring setup. I think it'll help prevent leaks. The part I don't like as much is the piston. The piston is a disc with two cuts at the edges opposite each other rather than piston holes.



Here's the body of the shock. Good material and metal caps.




Ugh, I forgot to take a picture of the piston... but it's basically a disc with the edge chopped off on 2 sides.


1 shock put together. I feel like the springs are way too hard. I'll use them for now as they may compensate for a heavier body since the DC-1 has a body with a bunch of scale details on it.



All 4 shocks put together.



Alright... another different way of doing things. The shocks are mounted like a buggy. They're mounted from the front rather from the side like most crawlers do.




Notice the front to rear mounting at the shock mount and the axle




Same thing in the rear

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Old 04-28-2018, 10:26 AM
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Steps 29-32: Battery Tray, Bumpers, Body Posts


So the DC1 Gives you two options for mounting the battery tray, which is nice.


Battery tray mounting Option 1 - This is probably the options I'm going to use




Battery tray mounting Option 2




Again, here we see some nice thought put into the kit. Stick on cushion/padding for the battery tray.






Rubber battery strap.






Here are the body posts. Again, enough thought put into the kit to include body post cushions for the body!




Body posts all mounted up




Front bumper




Front bumper mounted up




Rear bumper and spare tire mount




Rear bumper assembly put together




Rear bumper assembly mounted up




This part's complete!

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Old 04-28-2018, 10:45 PM
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Step 33: Wheels & Tires

Alright, so the DC1 comes with 5 plastic glue-on wheels and 5 tires.


These tires really aren't much to write home about. Not very sticky and I don't think they're going to perform any good.




Stock plastic wheel on the left, and the chanquish wheels that I might replace them with on the right.




All mounted up.





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Old 04-30-2018, 09:00 AM
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Note: Stock the truck setup had a sort of imbalanced axle shift biased towards the driver's side. I've lengthened the panhard rod and steering link by 1mm by adding 0.5mm spacers to each side of the rod to balance the shift from side to side so that it's more equivalent in shift towards each side during the length of the suspension travel.

Well folks.... I'm onto the body, but it's going to take a while to get updates up as this part requires more careful handling since I'm not allowed to bring recently painted bodies into the house. I'll start posting as soon as I get started on putting the window decals on. The body is like building another kit in itself. Lots of parts, lots of hard plastic details. Only the seats are still lexan, and I can see why with all the other stuff likely making the body heavier.

Here's a list of some of the things the body entails that are usually extra "add-ons" that you need to buy for other kits.

1. Wheel wells
2. Fender Flares
3. Hard plastic dash and steering wheel
4. Windshield wipers
5. Rear Light Bucket
6. Snorkel
7. Hard plastic side trim instead of decal

Here's a preview of what's to come...


If you hate trimming bodies raise your hand. *raises hand*

Well good news. HoBao has trimmed and drilled all the holes for you so that you don't have to deal with trimming and screwing up.









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Old 04-30-2018, 11:49 AM
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Great info and excellent write-up! Please keep it coming.
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by soze View Post
Note: Stock the truck setup had a sort of imbalanced axle shift biased towards the driver's side. I've lengthened the panhard rod and steering link by 1mm by adding 0.5mm spacers to each side of the rod to balance the shift from side to side so that it's more equivalent in shift towards each side during the length of the suspension travel.

Well folks.... I'm onto the body, but it's going to take a while to get updates up as this part requires more careful handling since I'm not allowed to bring recently painted bodies into the house. I'll start posting as soon as I get started on putting the window decals on. The body is like building another kit in itself. Lots of parts, lots of hard plastic details. Only the seats are still lexan, and I can see why with all the other stuff likely making the body heavier.

Here's a list of some of the things the body entails that are usually extra "add-ons" that you need to buy for other kits.

1. Wheel wells
2. Fender Flares
3. Hard plastic dash and steering wheel
4. Windshield wipers
5. Rear Light Bucket
6. Snorkel
7. Hard plastic side trim instead of decal

Here's a preview of what's to come...


If you hate trimming bodies raise your hand. *raises hand*

Well good news. HoBao has trimmed and drilled all the holes for you so that you don't have to deal with trimming and screwing up.










Also a lot more stuff to brake off depending on where you drive, my demon had mirrors, trim, etc, left it all off.
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Old 05-09-2018, 01:27 PM
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Body Step 1-6

So, I finally got started on the body.

I painted the body using Tamiya PS-12 Silver.

Window masks and trim also applied.






Also used a Pilot Extra Fine Point Silver Marker to add some detail to the side moldings.




Here are the door handles that are included. (5 of them)




Side moldings and door handles attached.






Step 2 for the body is the front grill assembly.




Reflective sticker in the headlight housing. Nice!




Front grille all put together.






Time to put the mirrors on, here are the parts. Nice thick reflective stick on side mirrors for the mirror housing. Also has reflective sticker for the rear-view mirror. Many other kits half-ass this with gray or non-reflective stickers.




Side Mirror and snorkel put on...






Parts for the rear tail lights.




Tail lights done.





Parts for the roof rack. Notice the indentations on the parts that make it really easy to put together...unlike the SCX10.2 roof rack.






Roof rack on the body.




A look inside to see how the roof rack and side moldings are attached.




Rear windshield wiper.



All done for now.



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