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Soze's HoBao DC1 Kit Build

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Soze's HoBao DC1 Kit Build

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Old 05-11-2018, 08:41 AM
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Did some prep work yesterday for some of the interior parts. Just waiting for the weather to warm up later in the day so that I can rattle can the seats. I'll need to clean up the lines on the paint off that oh sh*t bar though.

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Old 05-15-2018, 11:09 AM
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I saw one DC1 live last weekend and liked it very much. Also i liked the rooling part beneath the chassis. Do you know what is that? THAT part is great for when belly is touching the ground and rolls out, and not sticks or grabs the ground. If you know what i tried to explained...

Wondering if buying that part we can mod to use on any car...(scale,crawler)...

That by itself is a must have for any scaler/crawler...an instant classic upgrade/mod...wondering i never saw that on any rc scaler
Do you know it's part number?
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:22 AM
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Ok...found.
230046 Bottom Rolling wheels, 2 Pcs | HoBao Enterprising

Item # 230046
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:13 PM
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Some more detail work.

Backed the seats with Duratrax Black.

I then carefully cut and removed the masking over the seat and tops of the armrest and put on a nice coat of plasti-dip to give it that "leather" look.

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Old 05-15-2018, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by targetingxmod View Post
That would be it. Although honestly.... I don't know if those would make a big difference at all.
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by soze View Post
That would be it. Although honestly.... I don't know if those would make a big difference at all.
In theory it is excellent. Cause when got stuck by the belly...these will slide like a bearing. When not have them...you find a wall of plastic or metal that does not slide...it needs power pushed to move...these will move alone by themselfs..

In pratice...i don't know cause i haven't seen one in action....But sure will try to mod another Rc's with that option!

Are they secured with long screws that hold the links to?
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Old 05-16-2018, 12:28 AM
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Body Steps 7-12

Finally getting to the finish line, and it's starting to look good!


Put together the Interior Dash Assembly




Put the backs of the seat on. Left it with the protective film on for that flat look, but didn't plasti-dip it like the front of the seats. Kind of like how some car seats have hard plastic backings.




Interior is finally done.








Front windshield wipers. The screws for these are actually part of what attaches the interior to the body.






Gotta hand it to HoBao... kinda cool of them to include this kind of interior in the kit.




Time for the wheel wells to go together.








This is where they go...




Fender flares... the go hand in hand with the wheel wells to attach to the body.




All done attaching the fender flares and wheel wells.












Last piece to finish the body part of this build and the stock kit overall!




Final step of the kit instructions completed!






Went back to add some decals I missed that are for the hood.









Still here? What? You thought I was going to give you the satisfaction of the body mounted onto the chassis?

Psshhhhh... you'll have to wait for that.
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Old 05-16-2018, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by targetingxmod View Post
In theory it is excellent. Cause when got stuck by the belly...these will slide like a bearing. When not have them...you find a wall of plastic or metal that does not slide...it needs power pushed to move...these will move alone by themselfs..

In pratice...i don't know cause i haven't seen one in action....But sure will try to mod another Rc's with that option!

Are they secured with long screws that hold the links to?
I have a GMADE Sawback that uses skid rollers as well, but it doesn't really make much of a difference.

Part of the issue is that the rock edge would have to not catch onto the rod ends of the links for it to actually roll...
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Old 05-17-2018, 01:49 PM
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Alright... finally give you guys a completed look.

Shown with the stock wheels first.




I gotta pull the rock sliders/foot rails out a bit. The instructions had it at the last hole, but it should be 2nd to last to make it wide enough for the body.




I may have to do some trimming along the sides so that the front of the body sits more easily. Right now it's a tight fit since the body is coming up against the top of the slider brackets preventing it from going any lower.
















Testing some wheels out.... I have a few I can try. Hopefully something I have will fit the look. Here are pictures of the 2 wheel/tire combos that I have on-hand that are already put together.

Stock Axial SCX10.2 combo



Chanquish D-Holes with Pro-Line BFG Krawlers.




I have a few other wheels and a few other tires to try... Duratrax Deep Woods, KO Hyrax, KO TSL/XLs.
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:29 AM
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Tried out various wheel/tire combinations today.

KO Assassins from eBay & Duratrax Deep Woods Tires




I showed this before already but... KO D-Holes & Pro-Line BFG Krawler Tires



Last but not least... KO Assassins (Black) from eBay & KO Super Swamper TSL Tires




So far I'm leaning toward the KO Assassin (Silver) + Duratrax Deep Woods. I like how they fill out the wheel wells.

The KO TSL's are way too small, so I'll probably pick up some Pro-Line TSL XLs.

I'll probably use the Krawler + D-Hole on the SCX10.2
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:34 AM
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Thanks for the nice thread, Soze! Iíve a few noob questions...

1) What shock oil weight do you use? I changed out the RTR oil to a HoBao 30wt. Filled it to the brim and rebound seems sluggish... not sure if I should go for a much lighter wt?

Also when I poured out the stock oil, it didnít seem like the shocks had them filled to the brim, and had air in them.

2) My steering linkage seems to pop off at the servo side. The plastic servo horn also seemed a little deformed after some rounds of action. Does yours pop off too? Any advice for it to stay on?

3) Using the stock servo, the front wheels donít seem to be able to steer to the max in either direction while not moving. Only when I lift the front end off the ground or if itís moving, then the wheels steer to full lock. Is it the same for your DC1? Not sure if I damaged my servo somehow and weakened it. Hmm.

Thanks in advance and great thread!
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TheoDR View Post
Thanks for the nice thread, Soze! I’ve a few noob questions...

1) What shock oil weight do you use? I changed out the RTR oil to a HoBao 30wt. Filled it to the brim and rebound seems sluggish... not sure if I should go for a much lighter wt?

Also when I poured out the stock oil, it didn’t seem like the shocks had them filled to the brim, and had air in them.

2) My steering linkage seems to pop off at the servo side. The plastic servo horn also seemed a little deformed after some rounds of action. Does yours pop off too? Any advice for it to stay on?

3) Using the stock servo, the front wheels don’t seem to be able to steer to the max in either direction while not moving. Only when I lift the front end off the ground or if it’s moving, then the wheels steer to full lock. Is it the same for your DC1? Not sure if I damaged my servo somehow and weakened it. Hmm.

Thanks in advance and great thread!
1. I'm using stock shock oil for now, which I believe is around 30wt. I kept it at that because I wanted to see if it was needed for the heavier body. If it's still too stiff, I will consider using a lower wt, but the main problem is that the springs are on the stiff side, so I need to look into what springs will fit.
2. My steering linkage doesn't pop off, but then again, I'm using a metal servo horn and I used some spacers to lower the ball end for correct geometry to prevent bump-steer.
3. Does the RTR use the same servo that is in my build? I believe it's a 18.6kg HoBao servo. If it turns out to not be strong enough, I'm going to throw in some of my other servos. I suggest you get rid of the plastic servo horn and lower the ball-end on the servo for correct geometry. That should help.
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:25 PM
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Thanks for your reply and guidance, Soze!

Ah ok, Iíll probably try a lighter weight then, and see how it handles when I run it this weekend.

Good idea, Iíll try to find a metal servo horn and also lower the ball end with some spacers. Yup, the RTR also uses the 18kg servo.

Thanks again Soze, appreciate your help and advice!

Originally Posted by soze View Post
1. I'm using stock shock oil for now, which I believe is around 30wt. I kept it at that because I wanted to see if it was needed for the heavier body. If it's still too stiff, I will consider using a lower wt, but the main problem is that the springs are on the stiff side, so I need to look into what springs will fit.
2. My steering linkage doesn't pop off, but then again, I'm using a metal servo horn and I used some spacers to lower the ball end for correct geometry to prevent bump-steer.
3. Does the RTR use the same servo that is in my build? I believe it's a 18.6kg HoBao servo. If it turns out to not be strong enough, I'm going to throw in some of my other servos. I suggest you get rid of the plastic servo horn and lower the ball-end on the servo for correct geometry. That should help.
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:30 PM
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Oh yes, would you be able to take a pic to show roughly how many spacers you put for the ball end please? Do I have to have it run parallel with the panhard bar? Thanks again and sorry for the trouble!
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TheoDR View Post
Oh yes, would you be able to take a pic to show roughly how many spacers you put for the ball end please? Do I have to have it run parallel with the panhard bar? Thanks again and sorry for the trouble!
It'll vary from truck to truck depending on what servo horn you use. The main idea is to have the steering link exactly parallel to the panhard rod. Like this --> // If it is off, you will get bump steer.
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