wyd

iTrader: (51)

Sounds good. I want something different and the Corally Assassin is a trick car and very versatile. I really like the overall layout of the car.

Are most of you guys running the 128 64 pitch spur gears?

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

Actually I'm running the older new car- The rear motor chassis. I'm also running the two belts system with the 78 spur in stock. I believe the mid motor is a better car but I'm sticking with this car for a few more months before I get a new one.

octavio

finally, I have a setup which seems to work quite well.
rear motor chassis, one belt drive, front one way
front:
shocks std / 30wt/17,5 lbs/mount outer upper hole
caster 4 degr / toe in 0,5 / downstops 4mm
wheelbase mid / kickup 1,6 (2-1)
swaybar: no / camber 1 degr
short alu whisbones, schockmount outer hole
rear:
shocks st/30wt/19lbs / mount 2nd outer upper hole
short alu whisbones, shockmount outer hole
toe in 2,5 / downstops 4 mm/ camber 1,5 degr
wheelbase mid / antisquat 1,6 (2-1)
swaybar no

stock 19T
spur 96/pinion 21
Motor: Corally black gold handwound mod
this motor is REALLY superfast !!!!

Geforcy

Here is my setup at the Dutch Championship round 2 at HFCC.
Ended in B as 1st, I made a mistake in qualifying or I would be 4th or 5th in A-main. Anyway, I won the B-final with 1 lap more as the others and would have finished 5th or so in A-main with this result .

EDIT: its 3/3 at the back rool center (not 4/4)

Pedro 51

Lots of new stuff on Corally.com.

It is certainly a change from the C4/4.1 when almost no development parts were released, Now I can't keep up LOL.

Cheers
Peter

KoE

iTrader: (6)

guys, pls have a look at Rebuilding Shocks/Dampers in rookie zone and comment on what have possibly gone wrong. I've enlarged the piston holes to 1.3mm but everything else remains the same. I doubt laying 'em down as compared to standing 'em up while waiting for the rest of the car to be rebuilt contributes to this problem...or is it?

ahibj8

It could have been a small amount of air trapped under the piston

Scott J

Cookie

Hi,

I raced in the VORTEC Victorian State Titles on the weekend at the Boronia track in Melbourne.

The Boronia club BRCCC put on a fantastic event, with full catering and undercover pit area, scrutineering, radio pound and tables and chairs provided for all on the adjacent tennis court. This was one of the best meetings I have been to in Australia.

I had some fantastic close, fast races with Abbott on Saturday and ended up qualifying 2nd by 0.19seconds to him.

In the finals my car was a disaster in the wet first final after rain cancelled the 6th and final round of qualifying. In the 2nd final I was taken out and in the 1st and 3rd. I was totally furious that they destroyed my chances of a good result, but not surprised.

Anyway here is my setup that I used:
I thought it was fantastic in the dry, but no good in the wet!
Assassin setup: Boronia - Vic State Titles

ScottyP

iTrader: (11)

Bad luck Andy. Sounds like you deserved a better result.

Do you have any pics of your car in its current guise? I've yet to see the new Dural arms on a car.

Cheers,
Scotty P.

Cookie

hahah, yeah thanks, I usually accept that shit happens and it's rc car racing, but it's been happening a lot recently and I have had enough!!!!!


There are 3 pictures just 15 posts back on this very thread!

I may be able to get some more from the weekend, but not close ups like these.

Pat

Hey guys!

WOW! The Victorian State Titles were so awesome! The Assassin proved to be one of the fastest cars on the track, with Andy so close to TQ. My car was absolutely amazing to drive, a 7th and 4th in the finals aggregated to 7th overal. I think there is still so much potential in the car however, good things to come!

Here's some pictures of my car from the event.





Here's one of Andy's car, those arms are soooo yum!

Pat

Here's the setup I ran, the car was totally dialed I reckon. Rotated very well, so stable and YUM!

Pat's Victorian Titles Setup

octavio

I wonder:
for the rear ball diff,
- how may times it should be cleaned and rebuild?
- do you have to use a lot of diff grease, or just a little?
- what about the ceramic balls option ? useful ? and when you have the ceramic balls, do you need also diff grease?

PizzaDude

Rebuild the diff when it feels gritty....

Pat

Hi octavio,

I usually rebuild my diff each one or two days of racing.

Just scoop a 'pea' sized blob of ball diff grease out with your hobby knife and put it on your setup board, drop the balls into it and roll them around in it with tweesers, then clean the rest of the diff and put the balls back in. There should just be a light layer of grease on each ball, thats all that is needed. Too much can make the diff action feel really 'sluggish'.

As for ceramic diff balls, I've never used them but theoretically you would lube them the exact same way as with normal diff balls. Ceramic diff balls are supposed to make the diff action feel smoother, which is a benifit.