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Need help with changing my full size trucks ball joints

Need help with changing my full size trucks ball joints

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Old 07-08-2011, 04:53 PM
  #16  
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Hey Joe Dirt,

Where do you get Kroil at?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:17 PM
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I have never tuoched this specific truck, but from general experience I'd say if the issue here is that the hub assy is seized to the end of the axle, and therefore will not come off the knuckle, then I'd recommend a good hub puller like OTC makes.
Link:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CEQQ8wIwAQ#

Mount the arms to the wheel studs. Spin it up tight against the end of the shaft and start hammering on the drive faces of the puller -- trust me, this tool works and will pull a seized hub faster than a pickle fork / hammer / torch....I beat the heck outta a few axles in frustration before I bought one of those pullers myself.....

You can probably get by with a pickle fork for the tapered studs on the actual ball joints, but I find something like a pitman arm puller is much easier -link:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

(different variants depending on the job - but that's close)
slip it over the end and tighten up the drive screw against the item to be seperated and one healthy whack with a hammer will usualy pop the taper loose.

From there you'll need a ball joint press, I'm guessing - again, I don't know the specific vehicle, but looks that way in the pictures. This will make swapping out the ball joints quick and easy.
link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRGXY/...SIN=B0002SRGXY
.....works for driving out larger u-joints as well (use mine for 1410's at least once a month).
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:48 AM
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Another example of a repair that seems simple and is ..


Long as you have thou$and$ in $u$pen$ion tools .....
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Another example of a repair that seems simple and is ..


Long as you have thou$and$ in $u$pen$ion tools .....
Bahahaha, you must wear latex gloves too huh? Dont want to get your hands dirty now do we......

How did they ever work on cars back in the day with out thousands of high dollar tools and air tools????
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 440swinger-kid View Post
Bahahaha, you must wear latex gloves too huh? Dont want to get your hands dirty now do we......

How did they ever work on cars back in the day with out thousands of high dollar tools and air tools????
I wear mechanic gloves, protection from bad nick's & cuts ....

I don't even own a compressor , I do have pullers , a press , picker forks ect ....
Do most the work myself , only had my Chevy in the shop twice in 13 years ...
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:00 PM
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Went and rented a beefier puller this morning and got the hubs off with that and a chisel and hammer. The knuckles came off with the pickle fork a normal hammer and a torch to loosen things up a bit. Next up os the ball joints the book said they would be in the knuckle well guess again lol.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:27 PM
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Here are a few more pics of what I am dealing with after removing the hub and knuckle.











From what I can tell the upper is straight forward, just need to press the old one out and the new one in???? Am I correct in this assumption? The lower however is different almost looks like it is built in. The new one has a snap ring that looks like it goes inside, nowever I can not see how you would get to the old snap ring. I am headed into the dealer to make sure I have the right part this afternoon but any help from you guys would be great.

Thank you for all your help thus far.
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Old 07-09-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Littlejohn Dsgn View Post
......the book said they would be in the knuckle well guess again lol.
Ummmm.... That IS the knuckle they are in.

A quality ball joint press will push those right out and the new ones in.

Are you beginning to understand why the repair shop wanted the amount they wanted to complete the job yet?

As for "Kroil"... Any decent industrial supply house usually carries it in stock.
NAPA Auto parts can special order it for you. Usually comes in a square metal gallon can, Orange with a big white drop painted on it.
Last time I bought some I got a 5 gallon plastic pail full for $200. Pretty sure the gallon can is right about $50. It is worth EVERY penny.

Kroil... The oil that creeps
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Old 07-14-2011, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 440swinger-kid View Post
Bahahaha, you must wear latex gloves too huh? Dont want to get your hands dirty now do we......

How did they ever work on cars back in the day with out thousands of high dollar tools and air tools????
For the record - you can buy cheap versions of nearly any tools you can imagine -- it's just that you might only use it once when you buy the cheapo crap tools. Sometime they don't work as well or even CUASE more trouble like rounding off bolt heads. Good tools are an investment - the first time used will likely NOT do any better than break even on getting a job done yourself. However, you can allways sell off un-needed GOOD tools and get a fair amount of your cash back....or many times you can rent specialty stuff like the ball joint press.....or just keep 'em for the next job, even if it's 10 years down the road you be all set when the job comes up.


In your case - not sure if you're working from a Hayne book or Chilton, but usually whatever is in the book is correct -- some ball joints are straightup press fit with no retainer. Others have snap rings. Scrutinize the book and it should carify things for you. Also note variation like specific models (1/2 ton or 3/4, etc) difference should also be in the book. The lower joint may have a snap ring that you can't see for all the rust - I'd recommend some heat or even grinding it off some to see what you really have.

...and I do try to wear gloves when I can, but today it wasn't possible...time to go clean up.....for the second time....

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Old 07-14-2011, 03:23 PM
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Thanks guys for all your help, got it all together last night and a test drive in. I feel stupid not understanding what things are called, however the book (I do not recall which one it is, I have so many of the damn things for my cars, the wife's kids cars, my old cars, lol I have my own library) said the knuckle would come off for me to take to the shop (do not see how that would ever come off), anyways I got it all cleaned up, and got a ball joint press from Auto Zone (loaner tool, $100 deposit and its yours for 90 days, bring it back and get your 100 bucks back) got them all pressed out with the help of a big cheater bar and a torch to heat everything up

Got the new ones in (much easier then taking the old ones out) and everything else when together very easy (not to everyone Dodge wants $35 for the spindle castle nut, and I could not find a replacement any place else)

The right tools make all the difference. All in all I saved about $700 doing it all myself and got a brake job in that price difference as well. It helps that I just started working at a shop that has a press that I was able to do my U-joints on as well as turning my own rotors.

Thanks again everyone could not have done it without your input (at least not without many broken parts and a lot of frustration)
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