YEAH EXACTLY, THE lrp, which is a team motor, and it is mapped and modifed fromt he LRP factory specifically for team drivers. it is a motor which is modified/tuned and IS NOT available to the public....the box stock LRP is, but not the one the australian team driver uses.


...this is a public forum lunatics like me can reply to every single post under the sun :lol:

Yeah i hear you , and i completely agree.

you dont need a modified engine to run if yours goes well and gives you what you want. But i know one thing wether an engine is modified or not , the engines that go well are ones that share very similar port timing. So for example a stock LRP.12 has a blow down transfer of 43 deg and a JPFX .12 is 41 deg. Now with this particular timing in degrees is very important . 43 deg will give you a more potent engine than 41 deg.
So whats happened here ? its very possible that people that designed the LRP being Picco , designed it to have this .. which is in a broader sence a modification to the original one which had 38 deg blow down transfer. So wether or not its been modified or bog stock you are purchasing a motor that is race developed and no matter which way you look at it modification is another form of developement. I mean you can buy a cheap motor and mod it and it can potentially go just as hard as a much more expensive motor. and lets face it if you want to be competitive you need a quick motor. The LRP is a quick motor.

:D So is a OS TZ :D :lol:

Thanx marko for bring out the tires & fuel champ!!

Ran that nova 1/2 jp 1/2 ns 2 day and farrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrk
its sick man thanx heaps 4 that. Good luck with my next
project os. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Later mans

I think you will find that his LRP's are factory modded and from what i have seen arent exactly the most well built engines either,as on more than one occasion i have seen and heard from other guys the cooling head come rolling out from under the car mid race, but that is just my opinion.

Cheers Daniel

its not lean bottom end i had heaps of people come over and try and tune it but they only could get it to about where i had it i did talk to joe and he said something about getting a bit shaved off the button under the head so ill have to check with him exactly but it was tuned fine i just dont think i can get anymore bottom end out of that motor.

Sometimes you have to look elsewhere other than the motor to find the problem, are your brakes binding in any way ? do you have a drag in the drive train ? whats the tank seal like ? Clutch set up ? Heat range of plug ?

talking to kickass about this motor apparently its set up to run 30% nitro the way its shimed from the factory but taking the shims out doesnt give it enough compression compared to other motors i guess, it was suggested that to get it up to the compression you want the head button can be machined to sit a little lower and raise compression,and shim to set it correctly. thats as far as i understood it anyway :spidey:

ive heard this too!
IMO just get a STI and all your problems magically disappear :D

thats my magic plan too :lol: :lol:
eaven though we all drive various cars we al could be team ecsti :D

Sounds like weird advise.. Whay would you machine the head button when the shims are there for that very purpose. and in my opinion if you run more than about 27% true volume nitro in a .3 shim .12 engine you will start to pitt the piston and head button. What will affect the compression ratio is reducing head clearence. you can also increase geometric compression ratio by using a longer plug , if you are using a standard head button that is.. essentially turbo head buttons have a smaller geometric dish. you can also use this as a tuning tool when using longer and shorter plugs. YTou are talking about yoru Zac ?

no, it was nitro racer23's innotech collarri i was referring to, the head button mod was only a suggestion as a last resort if all else failed,unless i misunderstood what was suggested?, chris and his father took the shims out and the performance was better, the motor is known for lacking bottom end performance though.
i still think that the brake leaver on my car is most of the unwanted braking
problem, the linkage is much free're than other x4's i saw there, and with the aluminium collet on the end of the brake leaver attaching the link must be putting pressure on the brakes when i back off, the car is very free rolling

Hey Joe

Have you tried cleaning the one way bearings in the 2 speed.. give them a flush with a carby cleaner and re oil them..

hey joe
they finally came in!
il be getting mine hopefully on thursday (fingers crossed)

woohoo!!!!!!!!!! more power to crash easier!!!!!!!!! :lol:

i think ill wait and see if there are any problems with the new sti's before investing in one as i have heard some problems with them already somthing about the crank being to brittle but we will wait and see ill keep my fingers crossed there ok.

cheers
chris