Computer power supply
03-12-2005, 04:51 AM
#31
Originally posted by semper
I just came across these 'uncased' power supplies selling at Rcmart or Dinball, Venom Order was refering to. I might go that way. Beside that which 'cased' ready to go power supplies would you guys recomend? I only intent using it to power my charger (a duratrax Ice), no lathe or whatnots. So 10 amps should be adequate. Price IS a factor (sorry if that offends anyone
) but we're talking about an item that merely make life easier in the pursuit of an indulgence- racing model cars.
I just came across these 'uncased' power supplies selling at Rcmart or Dinball, Venom Order was refering to. I might go that way. Beside that which 'cased' ready to go power supplies would you guys recomend? I only intent using it to power my charger (a duratrax Ice), no lathe or whatnots. So 10 amps should be adequate. Price IS a factor (sorry if that offends anyone
) but we're talking about an item that merely make life easier in the pursuit of an indulgence- racing model cars.
Well those power supplys are designed to fit into enclosed compartments that are properly earthed or double insulated. There are exposed terminals which 240 feeds to.
Actually I might say this.
All governing bodys that clubs are affiliated with need to implement rules that ban all rc drivers that use unsafe power supply's.
There is nothing else to say, there is no "money is a factor" or "I found it cheap" or "it was a bargain".
Cheers
BG
03-12-2005, 05:10 AM
#32
I use a regulated 12V power supply quite happily, it's not a computer supply but it's pretty damn similar. I have no problem using it. I can't see any more potential risks using my supply then anyone elses.
I've built my own cool down tray, switchbox for my PS, auto voltage cutoff and discharger. Does this mean i shouldn't use them either?? Just incase somebody with a pacemaker walks along and decides to play with the terminals?? Where does this end??
I've built my own cool down tray, switchbox for my PS, auto voltage cutoff and discharger. Does this mean i shouldn't use them either?? Just incase somebody with a pacemaker walks along and decides to play with the terminals?? Where does this end??
03-12-2005, 05:23 AM
#33
Well I will keep it simple it can end up in court if you are using an item not design for a specific use in a public place. Enough said.
Cheers BG
Cheers BG
03-12-2005, 05:43 PM
#34
Originally posted by BG
Well I will keep it simple it can end up in court if you are using an item not design for a specific use in a public place. Enough said.
Cheers BG
Well I will keep it simple it can end up in court if you are using an item not design for a specific use in a public place. Enough said.
Cheers BG
Want to ban them too?There's no way anyone could hurt themselves with my unit, and when i see electricians making them too, it makes me think the risks can't be any greater than resting my arm on my computer at home!
There were plenty of us using them last night at our local track - perhaps they should cordon us off and put up some "DANGER" signs
I'd like the moderators to close this thread because it's becoming a complete farce.
03-12-2005, 09:42 PM
#35
I think you missed the point
03-12-2005, 11:17 PM
#36
Originally posted by BG
Well those power supplys are designed to fit into enclosed compartments that are properly earthed or double insulated. There are exposed terminals which 240 feeds to.
Actually I might say this.
All governing bodys that clubs are affiliated with need to implement rules that ban all rc drivers that use unsafe power supply's.
There is nothing else to say, there is no "money is a factor" or "I found it cheap" or "it was a bargain".
Cheers
BG
Well those power supplys are designed to fit into enclosed compartments that are properly earthed or double insulated. There are exposed terminals which 240 feeds to.
Actually I might say this.
All governing bodys that clubs are affiliated with need to implement rules that ban all rc drivers that use unsafe power supply's.
There is nothing else to say, there is no "money is a factor" or "I found it cheap" or "it was a bargain".
Cheers
BG
If the PC power supply has a C tick it has been tested in an Australian test Lab and passed for use in Australia.
http://internet.aca.gov.au/ACAINTER/
03-12-2005, 11:38 PM
#37
i bought a Pc power supply off a well known race for 20 bucks but i have to connect everything before i turn it on i so opened the case to see how to fix the problem and listen to this....... the PS was OFF unpluged from the wall and i touched something which was connected to every single wire WHILE IT WAS OFF and i got a big jolt or zap i was scary i closed it and i glued it together it was so bad and it was OFF i couldnt believe it but i can run my cdc off it and my two 9 cm fans and a comm lathe no problems
03-12-2005, 11:53 PM
#38
Stasi: It sounds like your PS was still holding a charge. If you want to look inside your supply my advice is leave the fans running when you unplug the unit. Once the fans stop the charge should be well and truly gone. If you want i'll take a look at it next race meet.
03-12-2005, 11:57 PM
#39
i have glued it so i cant open it thanks anyways
03-13-2005, 01:31 AM
#40
Originally posted by StasI
i bought a Pc power supply off a well known race for 20 bucks but i have to connect everything before i turn it on i so opened the case to see how to fix the problem and listen to this....... the PS was OFF unpluged from the wall and i touched something which was connected to every single wire WHILE IT WAS OFF and i got a big jolt or zap i was scary i closed it and i glued it together it was so bad and it was OFF i couldnt believe it but i can run my cdc off it and my two 9 cm fans and a comm lathe no problems
i bought a Pc power supply off a well known race for 20 bucks but i have to connect everything before i turn it on i so opened the case to see how to fix the problem and listen to this....... the PS was OFF unpluged from the wall and i touched something which was connected to every single wire WHILE IT WAS OFF and i got a big jolt or zap i was scary i closed it and i glued it together it was so bad and it was OFF i couldnt believe it but i can run my cdc off it and my two 9 cm fans and a comm lathe no problems
i'd recommend the team munch more power supplies. they look good, are small, light and have 20amps to a max of 23 amps.
jaycar sell some chunky jobbers that work fine, i have used these for quite some time. the only downside is they are 15 amps max i think.
ps why lock a topic because people are disagreeing?? this is a important safety issue, people should understand the hazzards. just because you know how to set up a "illegal" power supply properly and safely doesn't mean myself, or another racer can.
03-13-2005, 02:28 AM
#41
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
i think this is why these power supplies are not allowed. imagine if you had fuel near by and somehow the spark hit the fuel, or metho, or acetine, or any flamable liquid.
i'd recommend the team munch more power supplies. they look good, are small, light and have 20amps to a max of 23 amps.
jaycar sell some chunky jobbers that work fine, i have used these for quite some time. the only downside is they are 15 amps max i think.
ps why lock a topic because people are disagreeing?? this is a important safety issue, people should understand the hazzards. just because you know how to set up a "illegal" power supply properly and safely doesn't mean myself, or another racer can.
i think this is why these power supplies are not allowed. imagine if you had fuel near by and somehow the spark hit the fuel, or metho, or acetine, or any flamable liquid.
i'd recommend the team munch more power supplies. they look good, are small, light and have 20amps to a max of 23 amps.
jaycar sell some chunky jobbers that work fine, i have used these for quite some time. the only downside is they are 15 amps max i think.
ps why lock a topic because people are disagreeing?? this is a important safety issue, people should understand the hazzards. just because you know how to set up a "illegal" power supply properly and safely doesn't mean myself, or another racer can.
Why do you need to open these units in the first place?? Do you stick your hand in your computer while it's on???
I want this thread closed simply because their is lot of rubbish posted on here that is not facts - and scaremongering is only making matters worse! I don't want the few ill-informed people on this thread causing trouble that effects my club, or stops me and many others racing because of misinformation.
As for "just because you know how to set up a power supply properly, doesn't mean other people can" Well that's been my whole point all along
- DON'T DO IT IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOURE DOING -
How simple is that to understand. I have seen a few of these units built, ALL of them built outside the unit without going inside the case - ALL of them functioning perfectly well - ALL of them impossible to short out or get your finger stuck in there!
If anyone has seen units that could be considered "bodgy" then make that person fix them - or heed my warning above.
BTW we better ban ALL electric motors - the sparks from then could ignite fuel, or metho, or acetine, or any flamable liquid
03-13-2005, 02:56 AM
#42
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
i'd recommend the team munch more power supplies. they look good, are small, light and have 20amps to a max of 23 amps.
i'd recommend the team munch more power supplies. they look good, are small, light and have 20amps to a max of 23 amps.
03-13-2005, 10:23 AM
#43
The wholesaler has withdrawn the Much More power supply from the Australian market anyway.
A computer power supply is no different from any other power supply - if you aren't qualified to do so then you should not be taking the lid off. there is even a notice on the side telling you not to take the lid off (same notice as on my powertech one).
There is absolutely no need to take the lid off to make a useful power supply for rc needs.
Please don't open the box.
A computer power supply is no different from any other power supply - if you aren't qualified to do so then you should not be taking the lid off. there is even a notice on the side telling you not to take the lid off (same notice as on my powertech one).
There is absolutely no need to take the lid off to make a useful power supply for rc needs.
Please don't open the box.
Last edited by heavy; 03-13-2005 at 10:43 AM.
03-13-2005, 02:44 PM
#44
Originally posted by bender
Atomix your comment was the worst - you must have so much money that you are willing to throw it away - why pay more for a product that isn't as good? - would you pay $90k for a Barina if you could by a Porsche for $30k
Atomix your comment was the worst - you must have so much money that you are willing to throw it away - why pay more for a product that isn't as good? - would you pay $90k for a Barina if you could by a Porsche for $30k
03-13-2005, 05:23 PM
#45
A power supply is a power supply is a power supply. As long as it has the Australian Approval mark (or whatever country you are in) on it, it doesn't matter if it is a PC power supply or designed specifically for the RC market. The only difference is the connectors on the end of the cables. They do not do anything magical to make it work with your charger. However, if you want the install on the charger to be tidy and internal, you should have someone quallified do it. DC current (not voltage) is actually much more dangerous than AC (mains) current, and the capacitors in a power supply can release that current extremely quickly (i have seen screw drivers melted). Voltage is not dangerous at all, it is the current it carries that'll kill ya, it only takes much less than one amp at the wrong moment to do it.