'Paris'

iTrader: (1)

As an example, I used to run two x 2mm graphite front shock towers bolted together on the front of my HB D4, until the 3mm graphite items came out and solved the issue. Ran like that for 2 seasons without a problem.

Dos Andos

iTrader: (32)

Couldn't see it being a problem so long as the car meets dimension regulations for scrutiniring. Plus I've seen it done before...

window mark

iTrader: (12)

Thks for the info guys......Tryed the 2 main brands / not sure if its me / there is a soft spot in the towers ..... snap 3 in 2 weeks , at a cost of $27 each / ouch.... mainley indoor racing , on dirt no problems.......

Hyper Sean

iTrader: (25)

Might be more driver error mark. I dint think I ever broke a shock tower on the v3 in the 2 seasons that I raced it. I've always thought the durangos are a strong car. My biggest problem was always electrics until I went with the r10 pro.

'Paris'

iTrader: (1)

First, excuse my lack of knowledge regard the durango chassis.. but this may help you, or anyone running a car with this type of shock layout.

Anytime I run a 4wd that has the upper shock mounting bolts threaded toward the front through a graphite plate tower (like some Durango's), on any super high grip, or very hard surface, I always used to make certain the shock bolts themselves were shortened to not protrude past the shock retainer nuts at all. This stopped any chance in the event of a roll over of the threaded end of the protruding bolt from catching the surface and ripping the tower 'ears' off.
I also always changed to the most rounded shock retainer nut I could get, again giving less for the surface to get hold of if the car goes all chassis up..

Another tip.. I always have a few graphite towers in this situation, and each one is trimmed to suit a specific shock mount position.
So the tower used for the inner most shock mount position, has the outer two holes cut off, and the tower shaped back to as close to the top of the shock as possible.. Then cut and shape one the same way (less one hole) for the middle shock mount position, then a standard uncut tower for the final outer position.

And I'm guessing you would have done this.. But are you fully sealing the edges of the graphite towers with CA glue? As if this is not done, any plate graphite part is much more venerable to breakage.


..or if it is just from slamming a jump, then there is not much that can be done

meb4u

iTrader: (1)

No it"s just marks a harsh driver

meb4u

iTrader: (1)

I"ll be doing the same I think.no trophy winner thou so $20 cheaper

mambo61

iTrader: (1)

can anyone tell me what a roar approved batteries are.
is the capacity limited to race at major events.i know they have to be hard case. need to buy new ones.

les

window mark

iTrader: (12)

Paris .....will admit not using ca glue on the graphite towers / this maybe my problem...? Weak spot where the shock bolts in , at the top , found even after a roll over , slight tear in the graphite happenning , then about 3 runs later , just seems to snap under no pressure . Was thinking maybe , getting a plate made , running from top to top of shocks .,placing it behind the graphite tower .... see if that would help ...

Shorty your tt , hasnt seen dirt matey .......

'Paris'

iTrader: (1)

Hi Les,

Battery list is class dependant.

But as an example: 2wd / 4wd / SCT 2wd and ST for 1/10 in modified / 10.5 / stock / 21.5 motor classes in Australia must use a ROAR approved 2 cell (7.4v) battery.

There are ROAR approval listings on the ROAR website...

...I could link to it for you if my phone would work properly.. Damn!

Anyhow, it basically governs battery size and output, and keeps a level playing field.

mister_g

iTrader: (73)

Here is the ROAR list, has cheapies right through to the outrageously expensive!

http://www.roarracing.org/?page_id=259

'Paris'

iTrader: (1)

I'd definitely try CA around all the outer edges first off. It stops the graphite layers from delaminating under force.

But rather than using metal, as when metal flexes it retains the bend, where graphite returns to its fabricated form (unless broken), you could cut the top 1/3 off another tower and use the shock bolts (longer if required) to mount it to the top 1/3 of the mounted tower. This way effectively making the top mounting portion of the tower 4mm thick. It also will still allow both towers to flex, but while adding a heap of strength to that area, and retaining the standard mount position.

'Paris'

iTrader: (1)

..Or you could always not even look through the list, and go straight for the best available..! Just pick up a few of the Awesome(!!!) Fantom Pro-Series ROAR approved LiPo packs from: www.fantomracing.com

They come in stick, saddle and shorty..

Shameless sponsor plug!!

mister_g

iTrader: (73)

I saw Marks car cartwheeling like it had just jumped off the 10 meter tower tower in celebrity splash, It would have broken the front tower even if it was 5mm plate steel

hotshot boy

WOW, been off a few days and had an hours reading..!!

Just to update that the Gawler River clay loam is being delivered tommorrow (Tuesday) But I think we will hold off on actually using too much until the following week, given racing is this weekend.. But there are still a few repairs needing done so we will get this done before the weekend..