Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > International Forums > Australian Racing
Sydney Model Autosports Inc [smaracing.org] >

Sydney Model Autosports Inc [smaracing.org]

Like Tree28Likes

Sydney Model Autosports Inc [smaracing.org]

Old 02-22-2009, 07:15 PM
  #10861  
PDR
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Steveagle
I was running the basic futaba s3001 servo in my orange TA05 yesterday. Will have to upgrade to a better servo because Im not used it. My 415 has the Futaba 9551 servo and it is very responsive in comparison.

Phil, so the low profile 9551 has no problems fitting in the TA05's?
In my TA05MS, it was a 5 minute job with no major surgery required at all. I suspect it would go into any current TC without drama. From memory, it runs the opposite way to the Spektrum, and the Tamiya-supplied servo piece is a much better fit.

I'm intrigued about using a larger/longer horn (aren't we all?), but it looks like it might foul with the upper deck.

What about moving the steering arm into the hole closer to the wheel?
PDR is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:27 PM
  #10862  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PDR
What about moving the steering arm into the hole closer to the wheel?
If you are talking about on the steering knuckle, this will be a fairly huge ackerman change & I'd probably steer clear of it. I probably wouldnt use a longer than standard servo horn either, more angle is the wrong way to get more steering, unless like ben you had nowhere near enough throw - 17 degrees is the most you should need, anything beyond this and your tyres will be scrubbing.

Phil you'll probably find the front sway takes away steering again, but it's a good idea to either run them all around or not at all (I have all the mounting hardware if you need it). Next time you run I would try adding .5mm shims under the rear suspension blocks and see how that feels, and if it still understeering reduce the rear wheelbase by .5mm at a time
CraigM is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:43 PM
  #10863  
Tech Addict
 
Rozzt_iwa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: sydney
Posts: 560
Default

Online entry for SMA is up at http://cc09.castlehillraceway.com/ - paper copy should be up by the end of the week.


lets show them what makes SMA so good and friendly environment
Rozzt_iwa is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:46 PM
  #10864  
PDR
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CraigM
Phil you'll probably find the front sway takes away steering again, but it's a good idea to either run them all around or not at all (I have all the mounting hardware if you need it). Next time you run I would try adding .5mm shims under the rear suspension blocks and see how that feels, and if it still understeering reduce the rear wheelbase by .5mm at a time
I've now got all the bits to get the front one in, so that should be fine. I'm always slightly amused at the Tamiya "hints", however. For example, it says of the grub screws that go in at the end of the car: "do not over tighten". This then becomes a real guess at what they really mean - how tight is too tight? Right now, I've got the rear ones nestled in just far enough to stop the bar wobbling, but not enough to stop it twisting.

When you say shim the rear suspension blocks, is that to raise both by the same amount?
PDR is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:49 PM
  #10865  
PDR
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rozzt_iwa
Online entry for SMA is up at http://cc09.castlehillraceway.com/ - paper copy should be up by the end of the week.


lets show them what makes SMA so good and friendly environment
I'm in! With two entrants so far in 540, I should make the final
PDR is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:00 PM
  #10866  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PDR
I've now got all the bits to get the front one in, so that should be fine. I'm always slightly amused at the Tamiya "hints", however. For example, it says of the grub screws that go in at the end of the car: "do not over tighten". This then becomes a real guess at what they really mean - how tight is too tight? Right now, I've got the rear ones nestled in just far enough to stop the bar wobbling, but not enough to stop it twisting.

When you say shim the rear suspension blocks, is that to raise both by the same amount?
Yes on both counts. The sway bar should move freely but without any play/slop, and tamiya make special .5mm shims that go under the alloy blocks that hold the lower hinge pins. Putting .5mm under each will raise the roll centre, reducing rear grip. Reset your droop after you do this as it will change
CraigM is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:10 PM
  #10867  
PDR
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CraigM
Yes on both counts. The sway bar should move freely but without any play/slop, and tamiya make special .5mm shims that go under the alloy blocks that hold the lower hinge pins. Putting .5mm under each will raise the roll centre, reducing rear grip. Reset your droop after you do this as it will change
Picked up a set of these: 53539 aluminium spacers. I assume they'll do the trick?

The whole droop thing is still somewhat mysterious to me. I know what it is and how to adjust it, but don't really understand how it impacts handling.
PDR is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:21 PM
  #10868  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

You could potentially use 4 of the .5mm ones over the screws, but part #53932 makes quick adjustments a lot easier

Droop is easy

More front = more weight transfer to the rear on accelleration, more rear traction on accelleration/less steering on accelleration (use when car is taily on power)
Less front = less weight transfer to rear/more steering on accelleration

More rear = more weight transfer to front on braking, more steering on braking (too much and rear end will break traction)
Less rear = less weight transfer to front/less steering on braking, more stable braking (use if car is breaking traction on corner entry)
CraigM is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:00 PM
  #10869  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Out and About putting Fires out
Posts: 448
Default

Hello
Is there a trick to sign up for club challenge cant seem to get it to work.
Had a fun day yesterday even tho the car was every where lol
Hoping to make it out tomorrow night for a run.
shannon83 is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:01 PM
  #10870  
PDR
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CraigM
You could potentially use 4 of the .5mm ones over the screws, but part #53932 makes quick adjustments a lot easier

Droop is easy

More front = more weight transfer to the rear on accelleration, more rear traction on accelleration/less steering on accelleration (use when car is taily on power)
Less front = less weight transfer to rear/more steering on accelleration

More rear = more weight transfer to front on braking, more steering on braking (too much and rear end will break traction)
Less rear = less weight transfer to front/less steering on braking, more stable braking (use if car is breaking traction on corner entry)
Good heavens! Tuning in plain English. Who would've thunk it???

Of course, the next best improvement I could make would be to find a new driver
PDR is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:05 PM
  #10871  
PDR
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,073
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by shannon83
Hello
Is there a trick to sign up for club challenge cant seem to get it to work.
Had a fun day yesterday even tho the car was every where lol
Hoping to make it out tomorrow night for a run.
Just click on the link on the left hand side ("Online Entries") and then press "Click here to register" on the right hand side of the page.

The only minor hassle I had was that when I first clicked the link on the reply e-mail, there was a temporary error, but that sorted itself out.

Good luck!
PDR is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:47 PM
  #10872  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (73)
 
Andrew Barr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,367
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PDR
Good heavens! Tuning in plain English. Who would've thunk it???

Of course, the next best improvement I could make would be to find a new driver
Download the Xray T2 setup book, it explains all the setup options and how it affects your car. It is relevant for pretty much all touring cars.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ria=0&catName=
Andrew Barr is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:50 PM
  #10873  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (73)
 
Andrew Barr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,367
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default Car for sale

If anyone is interested in a F103GT with the Advan Courgae LeMans body,
I have one for sale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...n-courage.html
Andrew Barr is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 10:48 PM
  #10874  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 5,310
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

My entry is done for 19t. I'll chuck another in for mod if it gets enuf ppl for the class to run. Hope you guys are ready to scrutineer my car real quick in the finals! Straight off the track, checked, battery change, then back out! Better get that cooling fan sorted out before then. I get the feeling I will need it!
Dragonfire is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 11:28 PM
  #10875  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Out and About putting Fires out
Posts: 448
Default

Thanks for the hand had a blonde moment didnt see the register here I have entered stock for challenge cup, Michelles signed up for 540.

Last edited by shannon83; 02-22-2009 at 11:42 PM.
shannon83 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.