Sydney Model Autosports Inc [smaracing.org]

I was running the basic futaba s3001 servo in my orange TA05 yesterday. Will have to upgrade to a better servo because Im not used it. My 415 has the Futaba 9551 servo and it is very responsive in comparison.
Phil, so the low profile 9551 has no problems fitting in the TA05's?
Phil, so the low profile 9551 has no problems fitting in the TA05's?
I'm intrigued about using a larger/longer horn (aren't we all?), but it looks like it might foul with the upper deck.
What about moving the steering arm into the hole closer to the wheel?

Originally Posted by PDR
What about moving the steering arm into the hole closer to the wheel?
Phil you'll probably find the front sway takes away steering again, but it's a good idea to either run them all around or not at all (I have all the mounting hardware if you need it). Next time you run I would try adding .5mm shims under the rear suspension blocks and see how that feels, and if it still understeering reduce the rear wheelbase by .5mm at a time


Online entry for SMA is up at http://cc09.castlehillraceway.com/ - paper copy should be up by the end of the week.
lets show them what makes SMA so good and friendly environment
lets show them what makes SMA so good and friendly environment

Phil you'll probably find the front sway takes away steering again, but it's a good idea to either run them all around or not at all (I have all the mounting hardware if you need it). Next time you run I would try adding .5mm shims under the rear suspension blocks and see how that feels, and if it still understeering reduce the rear wheelbase by .5mm at a time 

When you say shim the rear suspension blocks, is that to raise both by the same amount?

Online entry for SMA is up at http://cc09.castlehillraceway.com/ - paper copy should be up by the end of the week.
lets show them what makes SMA so good and friendly environment
lets show them what makes SMA so good and friendly environment


I've now got all the bits to get the front one in, so that should be fine. I'm always slightly amused at the Tamiya "hints", however. For example, it says of the grub screws that go in at the end of the car: "do not over tighten". This then becomes a real guess at what they really mean - how tight is too tight? Right now, I've got the rear ones nestled in just far enough to stop the bar wobbling, but not enough to stop it twisting.
When you say shim the rear suspension blocks, is that to raise both by the same amount?
When you say shim the rear suspension blocks, is that to raise both by the same amount?

Yes on both counts. The sway bar should move freely but without any play/slop, and tamiya make special .5mm shims that go under the alloy blocks that hold the lower hinge pins. Putting .5mm under each will raise the roll centre, reducing rear grip. Reset your droop after you do this as it will change
The whole droop thing is still somewhat mysterious to me. I know what it is and how to adjust it, but don't really understand how it impacts handling.

You could potentially use 4 of the .5mm ones over the screws, but part #53932 makes quick adjustments a lot easier
Droop is easy
More front = more weight transfer to the rear on accelleration, more rear traction on accelleration/less steering on accelleration (use when car is taily on power)
Less front = less weight transfer to rear/more steering on accelleration
More rear = more weight transfer to front on braking, more steering on braking (too much and rear end will break traction)
Less rear = less weight transfer to front/less steering on braking, more stable braking (use if car is breaking traction on corner entry)
Droop is easy
More front = more weight transfer to the rear on accelleration, more rear traction on accelleration/less steering on accelleration (use when car is taily on power)
Less front = less weight transfer to rear/more steering on accelleration
More rear = more weight transfer to front on braking, more steering on braking (too much and rear end will break traction)
Less rear = less weight transfer to front/less steering on braking, more stable braking (use if car is breaking traction on corner entry)
Tech Regular

Hello
Is there a trick to sign up for club challenge cant seem to get it to work.
Had a fun day yesterday even tho the car was every where lol
Hoping to make it out tomorrow night for a run.
Is there a trick to sign up for club challenge cant seem to get it to work.

Had a fun day yesterday even tho the car was every where lol
Hoping to make it out tomorrow night for a run.

You could potentially use 4 of the .5mm ones over the screws, but part #53932 makes quick adjustments a lot easier
Droop is easy
More front = more weight transfer to the rear on accelleration, more rear traction on accelleration/less steering on accelleration (use when car is taily on power)
Less front = less weight transfer to rear/more steering on accelleration
More rear = more weight transfer to front on braking, more steering on braking (too much and rear end will break traction)
Less rear = less weight transfer to front/less steering on braking, more stable braking (use if car is breaking traction on corner entry)
Droop is easy
More front = more weight transfer to the rear on accelleration, more rear traction on accelleration/less steering on accelleration (use when car is taily on power)
Less front = less weight transfer to rear/more steering on accelleration
More rear = more weight transfer to front on braking, more steering on braking (too much and rear end will break traction)
Less rear = less weight transfer to front/less steering on braking, more stable braking (use if car is breaking traction on corner entry)
Of course, the next best improvement I could make would be to find a new driver


The only minor hassle I had was that when I first clicked the link on the reply e-mail, there was a temporary error, but that sorted itself out.
Good luck!

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ria=0&catName=

If anyone is interested in a F103GT with the Advan Courgae LeMans body,
I have one for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...n-courage.html
I have one for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...n-courage.html

My entry is done for 19t. I'll chuck another in for mod if it gets enuf ppl for the class to run. Hope you guys are ready to scrutineer my car real quick in the finals! Straight off the track, checked, battery change, then back out! Better get that cooling fan sorted out before then. I get the feeling I will need it!
Tech Regular

Thanks for the hand had a blonde moment didnt see the register here I have entered stock for challenge cup, Michelles signed up for 540.

Last edited by shannon83; 02-22-2009 at 11:42 PM.