X-Factory Drivers
08-11-2010, 08:56 PM
#47
You're the man to do it Scott!!!
Running middle in the arm but 2nd hole from inner in the tower.
What BK is doing is what I'd like to try, as it may be better to run a higher CG and sway bar than just raising or lowering the the CG alone. Silver springs.... yeh they run on bitumen over there don't forget!!!
What spring will you try up front then? Brown would be too soft for inside hole? I usually go with 30 to 35 wt up front with 1 or 2 piston as well. I've never tried the inside hole on the arm though....
Running middle in the arm but 2nd hole from inner in the tower.
What BK is doing is what I'd like to try, as it may be better to run a higher CG and sway bar than just raising or lowering the the CG alone. Silver springs.... yeh they run on bitumen over there don't forget!!!
What spring will you try up front then? Brown would be too soft for inside hole? I usually go with 30 to 35 wt up front with 1 or 2 piston as well. I've never tried the inside hole on the arm though....
Scotty P.
08-11-2010, 10:54 PM
#48
Hey All - ScottyP told me there was a thread in the Australian section I needed to check out, looks good! Glad you guys are enjoying and going fast with our stuff. I'll try and remember to check this thread (bookmarked!) regularly and see what you guys are up to. Of course if you have any questions or comments for me have at it!
There's of course the 'X Factory 2010 Bigger and Better' thread up in the main Electric Off-Road section; if you've not checked that out there's a lot of good info and discussion.
I agree, the placement of the forward posts is dumb. I originally wanted them on the inside, but there was one problem: you couldn't fit a GTB in the side pods when running cells. That's also the reason the chassis walls besides the 2-cell area are half-height. Check out the two attached images - it's an early version of the Squared chassis but gives an idea how tight it is. Back in 2008 most of the world was on cells, and about half the team were running for Novak. With all the dremeling you had to do to fit a GTB in an original X - 6, we wanted it to be painless this time around. In hindsight, not as necessary as we thought, but there she is.
There's of course the 'X Factory 2010 Bigger and Better' thread up in the main Electric Off-Road section; if you've not checked that out there's a lot of good info and discussion.
ive seen people just get b44 battery posts, bolt them to the chassis further in and use the b44 battery straps or custom ones, i agree, the placement of the forward posts is useless, Xfactory write if off by saying they dont take their batts out anyway, thats nice, but not for those of us who have to use lipo sacks
08-12-2010, 12:21 AM
#49
Hey Paul how's things?
Are you saying moving the front battery mounting points in is not going to affect the way the chassis works? Hope this is true as I've just done that mod.
Also it seems ok these days to be taking the ribs out of the chassis, before this was tabboo. How far could anyone go with this?
Cheers
Tom
Are you saying moving the front battery mounting points in is not going to affect the way the chassis works? Hope this is true as I've just done that mod.
Also it seems ok these days to be taking the ribs out of the chassis, before this was tabboo. How far could anyone go with this?
Cheers
Tom
08-12-2010, 11:58 AM
#50
Hey Tom. Things are going well - busy around the shop with ROAR Nats and the Euro's coming up on the same weekend.
I don't think moving the front posts in would hurt anything. A bolted-in post won't be 100% as strong as the molded ones, but keep it the screw tight and you'll be fine.
In regards to taking out ribs: in my mind, there are two things in play here.
First is, the X - 60/X - 6 Squared chassis is a bit over-built. The bottom of the chassis is thicker than anything else out there, the rear of the chassis is thicker still, and in general the whole thing is pretty stiff. So as the car evolves and we refine it, we're starting to find exactly where we want to be in terms of stiffness, where things should flex, and what we can get away with before stuff falls apart.
Secondly, and this is kind of obvious, but it depends where you're taking out that bracing. The main stuff we're concerned with is the 'vertical bracing', the ribs that runs fore-aft on the chassis. The motor bay area has a bit of flex in it, and the without the battery strap the 4-cell area flexes some too. For those reasons I don't recommend taking out any material from those areas. The 2-cell section of the chassis though, where the side walls curve in, is very strong. Taking away part of those small half-height walls in that area isn't a big issue. The horizontal walls aren't as important overall; side-to-side forces just aren't near as big a deal.
I don't think moving the front posts in would hurt anything. A bolted-in post won't be 100% as strong as the molded ones, but keep it the screw tight and you'll be fine.
In regards to taking out ribs: in my mind, there are two things in play here.
First is, the X - 60/X - 6 Squared chassis is a bit over-built. The bottom of the chassis is thicker than anything else out there, the rear of the chassis is thicker still, and in general the whole thing is pretty stiff. So as the car evolves and we refine it, we're starting to find exactly where we want to be in terms of stiffness, where things should flex, and what we can get away with before stuff falls apart.
Secondly, and this is kind of obvious, but it depends where you're taking out that bracing. The main stuff we're concerned with is the 'vertical bracing', the ribs that runs fore-aft on the chassis. The motor bay area has a bit of flex in it, and the without the battery strap the 4-cell area flexes some too. For those reasons I don't recommend taking out any material from those areas. The 2-cell section of the chassis though, where the side walls curve in, is very strong. Taking away part of those small half-height walls in that area isn't a big issue. The horizontal walls aren't as important overall; side-to-side forces just aren't near as big a deal.
08-12-2010, 03:08 PM
#51
Hey Tom. Things are going well - busy around the shop with ROAR Nats and the Euro's coming up on the same weekend.
I don't think moving the front posts in would hurt anything. A bolted-in post won't be 100% as strong as the molded ones, but keep it the screw tight and you'll be fine.
In regards to taking out ribs: in my mind, there are two things in play here.
First is, the X - 60/X - 6 Squared chassis is a bit over-built. The bottom of the chassis is thicker than anything else out there, the rear of the chassis is thicker still, and in general the whole thing is pretty stiff. So as the car evolves and we refine it, we're starting to find exactly where we want to be in terms of stiffness, where things should flex, and what we can get away with before stuff falls apart.
Secondly, and this is kind of obvious, but it depends where you're taking out that bracing. The main stuff we're concerned with is the 'vertical bracing', the ribs that runs fore-aft on the chassis. The motor bay area has a bit of flex in it, and the without the battery strap the 4-cell area flexes some too. For those reasons I don't recommend taking out any material from those areas. The 2-cell section of the chassis though, where the side walls curve in, is very strong. Taking away part of those small half-height walls in that area isn't a big issue. The horizontal walls aren't as important overall; side-to-side forces just aren't near as big a deal.
I don't think moving the front posts in would hurt anything. A bolted-in post won't be 100% as strong as the molded ones, but keep it the screw tight and you'll be fine.
In regards to taking out ribs: in my mind, there are two things in play here.
First is, the X - 60/X - 6 Squared chassis is a bit over-built. The bottom of the chassis is thicker than anything else out there, the rear of the chassis is thicker still, and in general the whole thing is pretty stiff. So as the car evolves and we refine it, we're starting to find exactly where we want to be in terms of stiffness, where things should flex, and what we can get away with before stuff falls apart.
Secondly, and this is kind of obvious, but it depends where you're taking out that bracing. The main stuff we're concerned with is the 'vertical bracing', the ribs that runs fore-aft on the chassis. The motor bay area has a bit of flex in it, and the without the battery strap the 4-cell area flexes some too. For those reasons I don't recommend taking out any material from those areas. The 2-cell section of the chassis though, where the side walls curve in, is very strong. Taking away part of those small half-height walls in that area isn't a big issue. The horizontal walls aren't as important overall; side-to-side forces just aren't near as big a deal.
In the last chassis, I actually ran 1 saddle in the 4 cell part, then the other saddle sat in the 2 cell, removed that rib we're talking about and had a low profile servo. Fit was mm perfect! I ran that config for a while, liked it. Just trying the way you guys are doing it now to see what it's like. So far feels good.
Cheers
Tom
08-12-2010, 05:34 PM
#52
NEW BITS
X Factory are about to bring out a lot of new bits for the X cars and will fit other cars (b4) too.
may be they r about to get out the Kinwald front mod??
dont know as yet but they
can only be great parts to make the cars even better!!!
may be they r about to get out the Kinwald front mod??
dont know as yet but they
can only be great parts to make the cars even better!!!
08-12-2010, 11:51 PM
#54
Are you running any weight in the front of the car with the saddles in or an alloy front bulkhead?
Have you had a chance to drive the car yet? Any comments?
08-15-2010, 01:50 AM
#56
Put the new chassis on the car today. Great thing about it is that you can still run a stick pack if you like.
Lots of room for electrics with the brace behind the servo taken out. In fact, with a small speedy and receiver I think you could fit them both into that space and have all the electrics down the middle of the car.
Lots of room for electrics with the brace behind the servo taken out. In fact, with a small speedy and receiver I think you could fit them both into that space and have all the electrics down the middle of the car.
08-15-2010, 02:50 AM
#57
Put the new chassis on the car today. Great thing about it is that you can still run a stick pack if you like.
Lots of room for electrics with the brace behind the servo taken out. In fact, with a small speedy and receiver I think you could fit them both into that space and have all the electrics down the middle of the car.
Lots of room for electrics with the brace behind the servo taken out. In fact, with a small speedy and receiver I think you could fit them both into that space and have all the electrics down the middle of the car.
08-15-2010, 04:13 AM
#58
@Tom - no mate
There'll be a big-ass heavy 5200 in there. Trakpower for pic purposes only.
Scotty
There'll be a big-ass heavy 5200 in there. Trakpower for pic purposes only.
Scotty
08-28-2010, 03:36 AM
#59
Just finished prepping the cars for the Ryde Club Challenge round tomorrow.
Will be interesting to see how they run. Track is very technical and unfortunately I've not turned a single lap on it! Round 1 will be a steep learning curve
Will be interesting to see how they run. Track is very technical and unfortunately I've not turned a single lap on it! Round 1 will be a steep learning curve