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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT INFO

Old 05-16-2010, 05:36 PM
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Hi guys

Any hobbywing technical questions can be written here and they will be answered by a tech officer .

please keep it clean and whatever updates are available will be posted here in this thread .



Ok guys enough of me enjoy your hobbywing products and most of all have fun

Last edited by IBsteph; 05-17-2010 at 09:26 AM. Reason: cannot link to outside business or email- as this becomes commercial-
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:05 PM
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Good way of sorting out the problem and keeping information here for everyone to benefit from. Nice idea.
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Old 05-16-2010, 07:42 PM
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I ran the 422 software in 10.5 on the weekend and was very impressed. It has no trouble keeping up with the other big gun ESCs and its silky smooth.

Quick question - what's the best way to get a little more top end out of the software? Add a bit more turbo timing I assume?
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Old 05-16-2010, 07:46 PM
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how does the hobbywing generate so much rpm out of a 17.5 if the maxmum timing according to the settings sheet is 29 deg (21 boost and 8 turbo) i dont believe that its possible to get tekin level speeds without having the ability to put on as much advance as the tekin has (im not being silly, im honestly baffled as to how it could work, and would like to know how the system manages to do it on 29 deg timing advance)
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NOFX View Post
how does the hobbywing generate so much rpm out of a 17.5 if the maxmum timing according to the settings sheet is 29 deg (21 boost and 8 turbo) i dont believe that its possible to get tekin level speeds without having the ability to put on as much advance as the tekin has (im not being silly, im honestly baffled as to how it could work, and would like to know how the system manages to do it on 29 deg timing advance)
You simply can't compare settings from one software/ESC to another. How do you know for sure that 50 degrees on a Tekin really IS 50 degrees? Castle Creations state that their 50 is different from Tekin's 50. I have been working on software for another ESC for a little over a month now and our timing is also very different to the Tekin.

The moral of the story is this... Forget what settings the Tekin or any other ESC uses. If you use a different ESC you simply forget everything you know about how to setup other ESC's and start from scratch to learn your new ESC. I have ran against Tekins, LRP (SXX SS), and Hobbywing setups and they all talk different numbers yet go very much the same on the track.
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I ran the 422 software in 10.5 on the weekend and was very impressed. It has no trouble keeping up with the other big gun ESCs and its silky smooth.

Quick question - what's the best way to get a little more top end out of the software? Add a bit more turbo timing I assume?
Correct Craig, more turbo will give you more top end. Ill be getting my hands on a esc that can take this software soon. I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
You simply can't compare settings from one software/ESC to another. How do you know for sure that 50 degrees on a Tekin really IS 50 degrees? Castle Creations state that their 50 is different from Tekin's 50. I have been working on software for another ESC for a little over a month now and our timing is also very different to the Tekin.

The moral of the story is this... Forget what settings the Tekin or any other ESC uses. If you use a different ESC you simply forget everything you know about how to setup other ESC's and start from scratch to learn your new ESC. I have ran against Tekins, LRP (SXX SS), and Hobbywing setups and they all talk different numbers yet go very much the same on the track.
That just seems odd to me, i thought 40 degrees was 40 degrees, no matter where ur from, also seems a bit dangerous, unless companies are using correct timing degrees, how will you know if you've gone too far, ive heard of some hobbywing settings add so much timing on top of the motor timing that halfway down the straight the motor gets sent into reverse and the car fires backwards down the straight, im not sure what amount of timing advance would cause that, my theory is 120 deg is the point because they are 3 phase motors, but without accurate numbers from all the manufacturers in their variable settings, it makes trial and error a potentially expensive proposition, again this isnt a dig, ive heard of cars being sent backwards down the straight, and im suprised all the systems dont seem to show the timing. its not like its an arbritrary scale, like braking strength percentage etc
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NOFX View Post
That just seems odd to me, i thought 40 degrees was 40 degrees, no matter where ur from, also seems a bit dangerous, unless companies are using correct timing degrees, how will you know if you've gone too far, ive heard of some hobbywing settings add so much timing on top of the motor timing that halfway down the straight the motor gets sent into reverse and the car fires backwards down the straight, im not sure what amount of timing advance would cause that, my theory is 120 deg is the point because they are 3 phase motors, but without accurate numbers from all the manufacturers in their variable settings, it makes trial and error a potentially expensive proposition, again this isnt a dig, ive heard of cars being sent backwards down the straight, and im suprised all the systems dont seem to show the timing. its not like its an arbritrary scale, like braking strength percentage etc
The full throttle reverse thing was only a Team Wave issues as far as i have seen.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:36 PM
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u a probably right Brad, as i say i heard something i might have got it mixed up
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NOFX View Post
That just seems odd to me, i thought 40 degrees was 40 degrees, no matter where ur from, also seems a bit dangerous, unless companies are using correct timing degrees, how will you know if you've gone too far, ive heard of some hobbywing settings add so much timing on top of the motor timing that halfway down the straight the motor gets sent into reverse and the car fires backwards down the straight, im not sure what amount of timing advance would cause that, my theory is 120 deg is the point because they are 3 phase motors, but without accurate numbers from all the manufacturers in their variable settings, it makes trial and error a potentially expensive proposition, again this isnt a dig, ive heard of cars being sent backwards down the straight, and im suprised all the systems dont seem to show the timing. its not like its an arbritrary scale, like braking strength percentage etc
It will be explained later tonight im just gathering all the info for all you guys so you all understand .But i can tell you this not all esc's are the same as you can never get the settings spot on there are tolerence's + or - in all esc's .Can you tell me that the clock speed of a pentium is the same as a amd athlon or the clock speed is the correct setting they specify in the bios setting is 100% accurate no chance on this earth .Even in Aviation which i know quite well there are tolenrence's and many differences from companies like honeywell ,rockwell collins etc
just an example thats' all
Ill be back with more info .

Last edited by COBRARACING; 05-16-2010 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:32 PM
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Another question, is it possible to get more brakes out of the current software or will that have to wait for a revision? I'm running 100% brake force, 10% drag brake, and 0% initial brake & it doesn't pull up hard enough from high speed
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Old 05-17-2010, 12:41 AM
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I have a question about V2 60 amp ezrun's, why is the thermal cutoff temperature so low?
I disabled it after it cut out on me multiple times, the heat sink was barely warm when it happened. I've been running a V1.1 for the past year aswell which doesn't have thermal protection and never had a problem and it has been way hotter than the V2 was when it was cutting out. Would be nice to have it working properly since I think the ESC might shit itself if the fan failed while running a 5.5t.

edit: I checked the V1.1 again it does have protection, but it gives a specific cutout value in the manual of 95 degrees, the V2 manual doesn't give any temperature value, it would've been 60 degrees at the most when cutting out..

Last edited by Bugle; 05-17-2010 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugle View Post
I have a question about V2 60 amp ezrun's, why is the thermal cutoff temperature so low?
I disabled it after it cut out on me multiple times, the heat sink was barely warm when it happened. I've been running a V1.1 for the past year aswell which doesn't have thermal protection and never had a problem and it has been way hotter than the V2 was when it was cutting out. Would be nice to have it working properly since I think the ESC might shit itself if the fan failed while running a 5.5t.

edit: I checked the V1.1 again it does have protection, but it gives a specific cutout value in the manual of 95 degrees, the V2 manual doesn't give any temperature value, it would've been 60 degrees at the most when cutting out..
Soon you will not be able to disable the thermal cutoff its there for safety reasons because people dont understand the concept of heat and electronics and burn out esc's like they are going out of fashion with running low turn motors when hobbywing specifies what can be run on what esc and how but people just dont follow instructions.Not all motors are the same even if they state they are the same turns there resistance is completly different from one manufacturer to the other .

This happened with Sp when they were giving out wrong info to there customers and they were burning out esc's and sending them back to HW for warranty not fair for the factory or the end user .

Suitable Brushless Motor: With 2 cells Lipo or 4-6 cells NiMH, 1/10 on-road: >=5.5T, 1/10 off-road: >=8.5T
With 3 cells Lipo or 7-9 cells NiMH, 1/10 on-road: >=10.5T, 1/10 off-road: >=17.5T

even though it states a 5.5T and above you have to understand not all manufactured motors are the same from different manufacturers so i suggest run a 6.0T-and above this way you can compensate for tolerences of whatever motor you are using .

You honestly think brushless motors out of china are 100% accurate ?? all the resistance's of different suplliers are completed different .I have been to many factories in china that manufacture brushless motors and have monitored there testing procedures and not all register the same resistance from supplier to supplier on the same turn motors.

so my advice is always go one turn or half a turn higher on motors and make your adjustments on your programming and gearing to compensate as everything out there is not 100% the same .
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:04 PM
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I don't disagree with the need for a thermal cutoff. The problem is it cuts off at a much lower temperature than any other ESC i've seen, and i've been running the v1.1 much hotter than the V2 cutoff for over a year without a problem. Maybe an 80 degrees cutoff would be more realistic if the 95 degrees on the V1.1 is too high.

Last edited by Bugle; 05-17-2010 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:25 AM
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Hi guys

Some good news from the hobbywing camp the next revision of software soon to be released will have the thermal cutoff at 95 degree c .

I did some of my own testing today and the factory has been doing some extensive testing and we have decided that 95 will be perfect .This way you dont have to disable the cutoff and everyones happy the factory and you .

anyway enough of me happy racing guys .
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