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Old 04-19-2010, 02:56 AM   #1
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Default What is the best lipo for stock off road racing

as the title says
need some opinions on the best lipo for stock racing
I've heard that the lower "c" ratings are better because the get warm while discharging where a higher "c" don't and lipo's are better when warm.
Not really looking for brand vs brand as this info can be found everywhere but more about tech specs mAh's c ratings, 2s/1p, 2s/2p etc
cheers
Steve
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:23 AM   #2
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Good thread, as I too am in the market for a lipo for offroading. I reckon too high a "C" rating might be have too much punch and result in increased wheelspin and thus throttle control. True?
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:55 AM   #3
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Thats a bit of a tough one Steve..
I take C rating with grain of salt. This is because there is no set standard on how to measure this.
Some Lipo brands are very conservative, while others can be overly generous.

Personally I think its more important to figure out where the underlying cells originate. Atm the best cells are coming from Japan, with Korea pretty close behind.

I think the more important question is, would you prefer to go through 2 or 3 sets of cheap Lipos for the same cost of one set of really good lipos.
I think I can safely say that I've spent a shite load more on Lipos than most other members, most of them are "top" brands.
Here is a list of Lipos brands I used and which packs. (In order of purhcase)

Losi - 4s 5000 25c - Not great, but not the worst either. But def not worth the $

Tanic - 3s 4500 35c, 5s 4500 35c - V.Good quality cells, exxy, but has lasted and still going strong even after running one of the 3s totally dead. These are way underated compared to other brands.

Fantom - 2s 5400 40c, 4s 5000 40c - Great packs exxy, but will take abuse. Possibly worth the $$

SMC - 2s 5200 40c, 4s 5400 40c - exxy not so good. They all puffed
SMC - 2s 5400 50c, 4s 5400 50c - These were warranties from SMC totally free of charge. Not even shipping. So far, these seem to be as good as the Fantoms. Worth $$ because of warranty and service alone.

IP - 2s 4200 35c - Cheapish, but I didn't like them cos I felt they dumped too quick. Felt soft after a couple of mins

LRP - 2s 4800 40c - Great cells, holds punch until LVC. But v. exxy. Not sure it's worth the $

Venom - 2s 5400 40c, 2s 5000 35c - Not the best, but the best value for money atm. 90% the performance of the LRP 2s at <50% of cost.


In Stock, the C rating is less important as your motor/esc won't be trying to pull as much current. But the C rating when taking other things into consideration can be an indicator to the quality of the cells.

Personally, from the same brand, and generation of cells I would almost always prefer the higher C rating. You just can't compare C rating across brands.

I think we're quite lucky atm compared to 12 months ago, where cheap Lipos weren't really an option. This time last year I would never consider buying the cheaper brand lipos as none of them appeared to be up to scratch.
These days I've seen many people running Hobbyking lipos without a prob. The Venoms are cheapish, not as cheap as HobbyKing, but they're right up there with the LRPs and Fantoms for a fraction of the cost. Plus if they do give out on you, you have great local support from Dan @ VGI.
With any of the current gen Lipos, I would be really surprised if anyone could pick performance difference between any 2s Lipo from $50 - $160.
Imo, its down to lifespan of the cells. 6months?, 12months?, 18months+?
My Tanic Packs show no signs of failing, 18months strong. My LRPs are no where near where they were 6 months ago, 8 months old.

hope this helps

Last edited by littlejohn; 04-19-2010 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trackster View Post
Good thread, as I too am in the market for a lipo for offroading. I reckon too high a "C" rating might be have too much punch and result in increased wheelspin and thus throttle control. True?
Not sure about too much punch as I thought that the C just governs the maximum current the battery can "give up"
when I was a electrician there was a PSCC meter which measured the potential short circuit current, for mains this was commonly in the 1000's of amps, but a light bulb wouldn't glow any brighter or reach full brightness any quicker if it was powered of the mains fuse or at the end of the lighting circuit
My problem is that I lose punch after a few laps BUT my motor is not overheating, on Sat after a run it was 110 degrees farenhieght,
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:25 AM   #5
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ahh this is excellent question, for stock race u need light lipo, 3200 is best, makes your car run lighter which is faster i got my mom to knit a lipo sock to keep my lipo warm in winter, makes much faster in first laps of race, sometimes if it cold, put them in your trouser pocket 15 mins before race to warm them up, use hard case lipo of course
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:36 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Tamiyarchie View Post
ahh this is excellent question, for stock race u need light lipo, 3200 is best, makes your car run lighter which is faster i got my mom to knit a lipo sock to keep my lipo warm in winter, makes much faster in first laps of race, sometimes if it cold, put them in your trouser pocket 15 mins before race to warm them up, use hard case lipo of course
I race a DB01R which is designed for Nimh therefore I need a pack that weighs 300+ grams otherwise I have to put lead in it
I need ROAR approved as this is going to replace my Harris 3200 which is over a year old
I run hobbyking cheapies no problem,
the more I look at it I reckon it could be my motor going off with a little bit of heat cause if I leave it for a minute with the fan going the punch comes back
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiyarchie View Post
ahh this is excellent question, for stock race u need light lipo, 3200 is best, makes your car run lighter which is faster i got my mom to knit a lipo sock to keep my lipo warm in winter, makes much faster in first laps of race, sometimes if it cold, put them in your trouser pocket 15 mins before race to warm them up, use hard case lipo of course
GREAT BALLS OF FIRE
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiyarchie View Post
ahh this is excellent question, for stock race u need light lipo, 3200 is best, makes your car run lighter which is faster i got my mom to knit a lipo sock to keep my lipo warm in winter, makes much faster in first laps of race, sometimes if it cold, put them in your trouser pocket 15 mins before race to warm them up, use hard case lipo of course
THe cars are required to be a minimum weight so a lighter bar=ttery just means more ballast, but atleast you can use the ballast weights to balance out the car.
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