Anderson M5 RC Motocross bike
02-27-2010, 10:40 PM
#31
Ouch. I just split the main plastic spur gear on its third run. Found a UK shop that carries a couple of hop-ups but......Never seen a gear break like that though. Brittle material is my guess, though it was a very rough track, and the standard brushless set-up. Awesome fun though, well thought out gyro - just need more steering out of it....... Am using the short "skid" bars, still need 3+ meters to do a U turn.
Actually melted a Lipo in it just before I broke the gear.
The only other issue I had, pull it apart and add real locktite. Most screws backed out on first run, whole rear wheel came off on second run. More stable than me though
Ants
( usually)
Actually melted a Lipo in it just before I broke the gear.
The only other issue I had, pull it apart and add real locktite. Most screws backed out on first run, whole rear wheel came off on second run. More stable than me though
Ants
( usually)
02-27-2010, 10:42 PM
#32
Wicked fun!!!!!!
I took it out for a spin this arvo. Stock with a 4600NiMh. Only gets around 5 minutes to a charge. Loads of fun. It handles so well. It slides, it drifts, it jumps, but not like a buggy, almost got a backward spin(needs a little more power for that). Landed on it's head many times, hit a tree a full noise and bounched off. estimated top speed 30kph, the mountain biker could just keep up. This thing is tuff. Gonna look at putting an old 1/8th buggy shock as a steering dampener, and the back end is a bit soft. Gyro is a bit sloppy and will have to shim a little. Other than that, it is an absolute blast, and easy to drive. Best of all, out of the box, add batteries, and your away. Probably the most RTR of all the RTR's that i've had.
Best of all, no breakages
As for price, hard too say, depends on how greedy LHS wants to be. In the UK they are retailing for around 230pound. From that, and I would hope to see them priced around the $420 to $460aus, RTR batteries not included. When compared to a 1/5 on road, or an ARX, this bike is low cost fun.
Andrew
I took it out for a spin this arvo. Stock with a 4600NiMh. Only gets around 5 minutes to a charge. Loads of fun. It handles so well. It slides, it drifts, it jumps, but not like a buggy, almost got a backward spin(needs a little more power for that). Landed on it's head many times, hit a tree a full noise and bounched off. estimated top speed 30kph, the mountain biker could just keep up. This thing is tuff. Gonna look at putting an old 1/8th buggy shock as a steering dampener, and the back end is a bit soft. Gyro is a bit sloppy and will have to shim a little. Other than that, it is an absolute blast, and easy to drive. Best of all, out of the box, add batteries, and your away. Probably the most RTR of all the RTR's that i've had.
Best of all, no breakages
As for price, hard too say, depends on how greedy LHS wants to be. In the UK they are retailing for around 230pound. From that, and I would hope to see them priced around the $420 to $460aus, RTR batteries not included. When compared to a 1/5 on road, or an ARX, this bike is low cost fun.
Andrew
If on NiMh, download the Novatech (HSP) ESC manual and find out how to turn off the voltage protection. I did notice that on 11.1, Batts got hot, but cut off at 10.6V - battery only took 2V to fully charge.....
Ants
01-15-2012, 10:46 PM
#33
Tech Adept
An old thread, I know. But... I got one of these early last year, straight out of the box and gave it a good thrashing for a few weeks - a lot of fun. Didn't take long though until the plastic drive gear broke. It ended up sitting on the shelf for the next 9 months, until I finally got around to going into the LHS and getting a replacement gear during the xmas break.
Had huge amounts of fun with it up at a local park, usually bashing with my mate and his (Traxxas) Stampede. After a bit of use though, the servo stripped an internal gear. Lucky I had a spare Hitech 24kg from my semi-retired truggy, so fitted that. During this, I realised that the steering linkage would never work correctly - I could get full lock left, but only 2/3 right as the top of the RHS front fork was hitting the plastic ball cup as the chassis got in the way. After trying a couple of different ways, I settled on a bit of threaded rod, drilled a hole in the ball cup and now the steering linkage is much better (I'll post a pic up later).
Wasn't sure about the best way to reset the springs in the steering linkage, so set it up this way (needs a 3rd hand): With the radio and receiver on, and the dual rate on max, turn the steering in one direction and hold it there. Moved the collar up so the spring is practically fully compressed. Then did the same for the other direction. This seems to have worked well.
Still get a little bit of steering shimmer, but the better servo made a massive difference. I've taked the crash bars off completely, and made a couple of much smaller ones out of two springs and mounted them much lower.
Here's a couple of videos, one on the grass and one at our local track. I've got the hang of the track now, and can do full laps without crashing! No big jumps yet, building up to that - very hard to get enough traction / run-up on our track. Surprisingly, it handled better on the clay track with the heavier Nimh battery. Easier to pop wheelies with a Lipo though!
Grass - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRZk5mt-vVA
Clay - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llvoNBp0gc4
Had huge amounts of fun with it up at a local park, usually bashing with my mate and his (Traxxas) Stampede. After a bit of use though, the servo stripped an internal gear. Lucky I had a spare Hitech 24kg from my semi-retired truggy, so fitted that. During this, I realised that the steering linkage would never work correctly - I could get full lock left, but only 2/3 right as the top of the RHS front fork was hitting the plastic ball cup as the chassis got in the way. After trying a couple of different ways, I settled on a bit of threaded rod, drilled a hole in the ball cup and now the steering linkage is much better (I'll post a pic up later).
Wasn't sure about the best way to reset the springs in the steering linkage, so set it up this way (needs a 3rd hand): With the radio and receiver on, and the dual rate on max, turn the steering in one direction and hold it there. Moved the collar up so the spring is practically fully compressed. Then did the same for the other direction. This seems to have worked well.
Still get a little bit of steering shimmer, but the better servo made a massive difference. I've taked the crash bars off completely, and made a couple of much smaller ones out of two springs and mounted them much lower.
Here's a couple of videos, one on the grass and one at our local track. I've got the hang of the track now, and can do full laps without crashing! No big jumps yet, building up to that - very hard to get enough traction / run-up on our track. Surprisingly, it handled better on the clay track with the heavier Nimh battery. Easier to pop wheelies with a Lipo though!
Grass - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRZk5mt-vVA
Clay - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llvoNBp0gc4
Last edited by H9; 01-15-2012 at 10:49 PM. Reason: typo
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