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Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread.

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Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread.

Old 02-25-2011, 09:04 PM
  #10021  
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Originally Posted by Roman
No worries Simon, we will see how it goes tomorrow, might not need to.

Went to your part of Australia for a wedding last week, a very relaxing and beautiful area.

How is the TRF201 ?
Lol not sure yet...I will tell you tomorrow Just blame the driver It sure goes together nice.

I got no idea when it comes to gearing this 2 wheel buggy stuff, running a 10.5 Orion & am at 9.78FDR.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:36 PM
  #10022  
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Originally Posted by wyl03
Roman - I can help out with the canteen. Let me know what else I can do to ensure you get to race at least 1 class. if Shane can do it, you can do it too! (ie run race control & race)
But I'll only get to the track at 11am
Thanks Yung.

Originally Posted by nckmat
I thought you went to Bowral. That's in the Southern Highlands, about 75km inland from Culburra Beach.
Oops, sorry guys. . .

Originally Posted by SH
Lol not sure yet...I will tell you tomorrow Just blame the driver It sure goes together nice.

I got no idea when it comes to gearing this 2 wheel buggy stuff, running a 10.5 Orion & am at 9.78FDR.
Simon, you need to be closer to 8 FDR with no timing, if you are running lots of ESC boost then 9.78 might be right.
Depends on the ESC.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:23 PM
  #10023  
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Originally Posted by SH

I got no idea when it comes to gearing this 2 wheel buggy stuff, running a 10.5 Orion & am at 9.78FDR.
Yeah I agree with Roman, even if his geography is a bit off, he can be relied upon for decent motor advice sometimes. When I'm not sure what FDR to use with a new motor/car combo I check the LRP website and open up the manual for a similar motor from them, so they have two 10.5 options, the Eraser (older tech) and the X12 (new tech); for 2WD off-road using the Eraser they suggest an FDR of 8.9 and for the X12 they suggest 8.0. So if you wanted to play it safe start at 8.4, check the temp after your first race and if it is below about 75C you should be ok, if it is above, go down a few teeth and if it is well below, say 65C or so, then you could probably go up a tooth or two.

I run 8.1 FDR in my 2WD with a 10.5 X12, with no timing on the motor or the speedy and I never have to check the temp, because even on hot days it doesn't go much over 70C.

Bear in mind it will be over 30C tomorrow, so probably best to play conservative.
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Old 02-26-2011, 03:12 AM
  #10024  
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Originally Posted by SH
Lol not sure yet...I will tell you tomorrow Just blame the driver It sure goes together nice.

I got no idea when it comes to gearing this 2 wheel buggy stuff, running a 10.5 Orion & am at 9.78FDR.
Im around 7.22 FDR in the B4.1 (you should have bought 1 of these,it makes me look fast its so good)
Ignore all gearing charts,and just gear to heat....i could probably throw another 1-2 teeth at it still too......might hurt bottom end though
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:18 AM
  #10025  
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I may not turn up until 12ish due to my practise this afternoon I thought I had got the clutch to hot and it was slipping. When I got it home I found the stub axle had got so hot I melted the rim. So now I have to either take the stock tires off the rims and swap over or wait for the hobby shop to open to get spare.

Seeya James
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:53 PM
  #10026  
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Wow. I have melted the tread on the lock nut as well. I have had to resort to cutting the lock nut off... Off to the hardware to buy a dremel.

Any ideas why this would have got so hot. Was running for 25 mins.

Thanks James
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:15 PM
  #10027  
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Originally Posted by prontozuk
Wow. I have melted the tread on the lock nut as well. I have had to resort to cutting the lock nut off... Off to the hardware to buy a dremel.

Any ideas why this would have got so hot. Was running for 25 mins.

Thanks James
Post photos.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:49 PM
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Thanks for the reply Nick.



I have not cut the rim or the lock nut. I have had my wife holding the wheels, me with a screw driver jammed in the spur gear and pinion(in a nice way) and tried un doing the lock nut and it would still not undo. The clutch just starts to slip...

Thoughts.

Thanks
James
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:05 PM
  #10029  
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The cause was probably bearing related. Especially if a lot of heat was generated.

Pull that side of the car apart and see if you can hold the axle with vice grips, then try and unscrew the nut. The axle/nut might be cross threaded.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:56 PM
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yepp wheel off now I can see that the pin is not equal on both sides. However it looks to short compared to the left hand side.



And the rim.



Thanks James
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:12 AM
  #10031  
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ouch!!!

I cant tell in the photo, but I assume it is a roll pin like this as this is what it should be.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7369/

Get beadlocks next time that use hex drives like on touring cars. The hex drives fit straight on.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew Barr
ouch!!!

I cant tell in the photo, but I assume it is a roll pin like this as this is what it should be.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7369/

Get beadlocks next time that use hex drives like on touring cars. The hex drives fit straight on.
pin drive is fine if you do it right.

you can get 1/8 body pins and use the straight section from it. cut to the desired lenght and make them as long as possible to fit in the drive on the rim..

also make sure your bearings are right otherwise this will destroy the rear and make it wobble.

and make sure you do the nut up tight other wise it will start to spin and strip it.

the hex can still strip if the nut is loose.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:20 AM
  #10033  
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Originally Posted by prontozuk
yepp wheel off now I can see that the pin is not equal on both sides. However it looks to short compared to the left hand side.



And the rim.



Thanks James
From what i can see in the pics, it looks like you may have over tightened the wheel nut. Causing the bearing to seize and get extremely hot.

There's scratches all over the blue alloy next to the pin. Thats telling me it was over tightened.

If you have fresh wheel nuts. The nylon on the nut holds it on the thread. Theres no need to crank it tight.

Brendan S
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Brenos
From what i can see in the pics, it looks like you may have over tightened the wheel nut. Causing the bearing to seize and get extremely hot.

There's scratches all over the blue alloy next to the pin. Thats telling me it was over tightened.

If you have fresh wheel nuts. The nylon on the nut holds it on the thread. Theres no need to crank it tight.

Brendan S
thanks brenos i missed that point
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:08 AM
  #10035  
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Originally Posted by Brenos
From what i can see in the pics, it looks like you may have over tightened the wheel nut. Causing the bearing to seize and get extremely hot.

There's scratches all over the blue alloy next to the pin. Thats telling me it was over tightened.

If you have fresh wheel nuts. The nylon on the nut holds it on the thread. Theres no need to crank it tight.

Brendan S
Yep I concur, same thing happened to me a couple of months ago, not an uncommon thing to happen to Associated cars and trucks. Best way to avoid it is to make sure the blue spacer is firmly shimmed against the pin, bearings are in good order and change the wheel nuts a few times a year.

BTW, did you guys race today?
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