joshb

Hi Guys,

I'm considering racing my Duratrax Evader ST. Can anyone recommended some good Hop-ups and do many others race the Evader? (Are they a suitable racing RC Car?)

I have the standard RTR car. I'm also considering painting my own body, the Evader body are all so the same ..

Really just after idea's for hop-ups

Thanks guys!

Cheers,

josh.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Josh, dont worry too much about hop ups, make sure it has ball bearings, get the apropriate motor for class, and a cheap economy level speed control, and a couple of decent packs, club spec only.

Just go have fun at the track, most are open 7 days a week around sydney, go to a few club meets and see if you get hooked on racing, then you can consider upgrading, it would be better and cheaper to pick up a good second hand mod car that spend money upgrading old technology.

fastolfart

The Duratrax evadader looks to be a good starter car for the novice driver. The kit gives most of the main components to start of road racing, with the chance of getting in amost the next level of drivers at the track.
One of the main things I would suggest to change on this car, is the rear tyres ( WAY TOO HARD) and some decent shock oil. Goto a softer compound tyre for the rear, and you will find the car a lot more fun to drive at the local track.
Check with your local club on motor requirements as well, this car has a 20 turn single motor and may not qualify for a suitable clas at the club.
Generally the car should be a fun unit for the beginer.

paulc

iTrader: (4)

Hi there,

Josh, where are you planning to buy the Evader? is it from your LHS? I would like to get one and have a friend bring it back. Does your LHS have a website where I can purchase online?

Thanks,

Paul

contact

iTrader: (2)

we run a duratrax evader st class, its been very popular, the cars are run stock, except for the tyre choice which is open... you wont need any hop-ups and should be able to get them anywhere!

joshb

Thanks for the advice all.

Paul,

I bought my Evader ST from Hobbyco for $450.00 but I wouldent suggest buying it from them. I've seen a few Hobby sites on the web selling them for $385.00 (Grrrrrr @ Hobbyco) - You can buy them RTR.

Good luck! and let me know if you buy one

Cheers,

Josh.

paulc

iTrader: (4)

Joshb,

Thanks, I'll check it out and let you know soon. But at the moment, am torn between a schumacher cat3000 (250 USD) from a guy in Singapore to an Evader BX. I know theres no comparison between the two, its just that I would like to beat the Team Losi domination at our local track using mid level buggies...

Thanks!

joshb

I havent had much chance to use my Evader Yet!

The stoopid car was playing up when I bought it and had to be sent back to duratrax to be fixed.. Grrr

Im selling my HPI Nitro MT - Im not mechanical enough for it yet, and Im always having little probs - Ill miss it but, it was great when it worked

Let me know which car you buy!

Cheers,

Josh.

paulc

iTrader: (4)

josh,

dont sell it. what is your problem with the MT? I've had experiences in nitro and might be able to help. I've had a Tamiya TG10, Neo TNT, HPI Nitro RS4, Mugen MTX2, XXX NT, T-Maxx, Kyosho Ultima nitro buggy.

I just might be able to help. The nitro MT a perfectly good truck. When you do get the experience with your evader then play around with your MT.

Paul

joshb

Hi Paul,

The HPI Nitro MT was running fine until I install a new Manifold. After installing the Manifold and Gasket I now seem to be having issues with the car and the problem of the engine overheating, or needing to be ran to lean.

The only way I can get the car to drive it to run it close to full lean, otherwise it just bog's down, and I really don't understand what I've done wrong, as I've made sure the manifold and gasket are on tight, and that the pipe and manifold is totally car tight.

I'm reallt stumped but I cant afford to send it into my LHS for repair, as my girlfriend is already annoyed at how much money I spend on these cars - I'd love to get it running good, but I just don't have enough experience to fix it.

Any ideas?

Cheers.

Josh.

paulc

iTrader: (4)

Josh,

It might be possible that the reason for overheating is that you have it set up near full lean. That for sure would make it too hot.
Try the default factory setting. For the nitro star (if thats the same engine), i'm not sure what the default settings for the carb.

A good manifold should not show this symptons, there might be a leak somewhere in the length of the manifold or somewhere else.

Have you checked this?

Paul

joshb

Hiya,

Yeah - Im not using an Original HPI Manifold (Maybe that's the Problem) - I could order a new HPI Manifold and try that.

Yes - I totally agree. Because I have to run it so lean, the engine overheats. I can't see any leaks, and I have looked.

Maybe ordering the new HPI Manifold would be the go?

Cheers,

Josh.

paulc

iTrader: (4)

Hmmmm...there are no leaks (fuel/air) anywhere.
After installing the new manifold how was the MT behaving, was it erratic, dies out after a slight pull of the throttle? or during high speed?

If dies out after a slight pull of the throttle chances are that its to rich. Durig high speed it must be the high end needle of the carb.

Ooops, you still have the original engine with the single needle carb?

Try closing this fully, and opening it 2 1/2 turns out and start it out.

beyond that am stumped without actually being there to see it.

Paul

joshb

Thanks for all the advice paul.
I'm going to try it.

The car has been behaving differently since I installed the Manifold - Before I installed it, the car was running fine, and I didn't need to lean it out to much, but now.. It's gone wacky - I'm going to try what you suggested.

The other thing I noticed was the servo that connect's to the throttle has been moved and is causing some issues with acceleration which also might have to do with it.

Im not very mechanically minded so Im not sure

Cheers,

Josh.

paulc

iTrader: (4)

josh, one thing at a time.

set your trims for that servo to neutral (while having the connectors off and adjust your rod (kinda kinky, isnt it?) so that there is an opening inside the carb about 1 mm. (you'ld have to take off the filter though to look in).

its could be that MT throttle is either set backward to much that you can't idle and that you leaned it to compesate (then again am not there...)

Paul