poop

iTrader: (27)

Hi All,

Firstly, a very big thank you to Michael Sherman at SpeedyRC for sourcing and stocking all the gear required for this class - Please have a chat to Mick if you're keen to join us or visit his website: www.speedyrc.com.au

The idea behind this class is to create something that is as fun as the Tamiya Trucks but more complex, so it's more engaging and challenging.

Starting next race meet (23 June 2018) at Meakin Park, a couple of us will be trialling a new spec class that is designed to promote close racing with near identical cars and locked FDR. We're still working on the minor details, but this class will be based on the following:

Hardware

Chassis - Xpress Execute XQ1S
Hobbywing G1 13.5T
Team Zombie hardcase 7.4v 5500mah 75c lipo
Protoform Chevrolet Corvette C7.R (Winter Series)
Rush 36X pre-glued rubber tyres
Open blinky ESC/Hobbywing XR10 Justock (Read rules below)
Open radio gear
One motor fan up to 40mm allowed

Rules

Chassis:
- Performance enhancing optional hop-ups prohibited - only kit supplied items can be used
- Bearings can be cleaned and re-oiled
- Kit plastic spacers can be replaced by aluminium spacers
- Shimming of slop is allowed
- No minimum weight limit. Weights added to balance chassis permitted
- Kit screws or similar replacements allowed - Aluminium/Titanium weight saving screws prohibited
- Setup changes to improve the handling of the car are encouraged

Motor:
- Upgrading motor bearings not permitted
- Oiling the bearings permitted
- Motor end bell timing open - but modifying the internal locking tab to adjust past factory maximum is prohibited
- Locked FDR:

***Meakin Park Logan FDR 4.32 by using 48P 75T Spur and 48P 33T Pinion***
***Bayside Wynnum FDR 4.45 by using 48P 75T Spur and 48P 32T Pinion***

Battery:
- Charged at 1C max

Bodyshell:
- Lower body cuts must be on the factory line
- Front wheels aligned to the middle of the front wheel well
- Factory provided rear wing mounted in the factory designated hole on the body but any of the four factory designated holes on the wing can be used for adjusting downforce
- There will be a chosen bodyshell for each season. Current winter series will be Protoform Corvette C7.R as nominated above

Tyres:
- Tyre warmers permitted
- Tyre cleaning and maintenance permitted
- Traction compound permitted

ESC:
- Open ESC but must be in blinky mode
- Aftermarket capacitors prohibited
- Update ***ESC is to be Hobbywing XR10 Justock*** We will still allow open ESC as per the above rules until more racers join and a vote is taken as to when this is to be enforced

Remarks

We welcome everyone from beginners to title winning veterans to join us in this budget conscious class. Hopefully, we can foster a sense of "team" with this spec class, where knowledge is shared and newcomers have people to turn to for questions and advice. We would also like to ask that the winners of each club meet to share their car setup on here

Click here for editable setup sheet and follow this guide to save your setup to pdf for uploading into this forum:
Editable Setup sheet
Saving to PDF

Any comments/questions and feedback will be greatly appreciated!

Update 27 July 2018 - Super deal Mick@SpeedyRC is doing! For $499 you get:

Xpress XQ1S racing chassis
Sanwa MX-6 Wheel radio with RX-391W receiver
Hobbywing Justock XR10 ESC
Hobbywing Justock 21.5T motor
Tornado DC2511s Coreless Servo
Team Zombie 5500mah 75c 7.4v Lipo
Imax B6AC Professional Charger
190mm Body shell of your choice
A can of spray paint
Rush 36X pre-glued touring car tyres set
Xenon 48P 34T pinion
Xenon 48P 68T spur

***As an added bonus, you'll also get 2 years complimentary membership to ANY RC Club in Australia***

I have had a chat with him and to change the motor to the Hobbywing G1 13.5T and change the gearing to 75T spur and 33T pinion to suit our spec class for Logan will cost an extra $20 only!

poop

iTrader: (27)

Here’s a bit about the car and what I’ve learnt so far.

The RCTech thread for this chassis is here: Xpress Execute XQ1S
I’ve built three so far and did a club meet with one at Meakin Park. There are some things to take note of when building one for yourself:

1) For beginners that might not have many tools, this kit is great because it comes with pretty much everything you need to build it. The instructions don’t mention it, but it includes a 1.5, 2.0, and 2.5mm allen key, Tamiya style nut wrench, 4mm and 5mm turnbuckle wrench, a ball cup holder when making turnbuckles, ride height gauge, and turnbuckle length gauge that gives you the default setup. You will need other tools like cutters, pliers, etc but RC specific tools are included. You will also need CA to glue the front pulley – something I didn’t have because I only run pre-glued tyres these days

2) Clean the kit bearings out with shellite or something similar. I used wax and grease remover and then re-oil it with something lighter. The kit bearings were packed with heaps of thick grease and really bound up the drivetrain

3) Use some grease or shock oil on the turnbuckle threads. Once they are done up, they tend to really grab on and it makes adjusting camber/toe etc a pain because it’ll pop the ball cup off the stud when doing adjustments

4) Use shock slime and diff grease because I noticed a little bit of leakage on the diff outdrives if you don’t use it. Even after a full race meet including two hours of practice, I have not seen any leaks from my shocks or diff

5) Check and shim up the arms on the suspension pins. Some didn’t need shims, but some were way out and needed a 0.3mm shim

6) Rear hub to suspension arm fitment might need light sanding. Out of the 3 kits. Only one rear hub needed extra work for free movement

7) As most screws are going into plastic, it doesn’t need to be done up very tight. Just tight enough so it holds the part down with a little bit of pressure is good enough in my opinion. Because it’s plastic, it won’t work itself loose like screwing into alloy, and I found that doing up the screws too tight would actually tweak the chassis. I didn’t touch anything on my car for the whole race meet and had a few decent hits. Nothing came loose and the car drove straight all night with no tweak

8) Floating steering didn’t work on my car. It might be the FRP servo plate or the plastic servo chassis mount having misaligned holes, but when I built my car with floating steering, you could see that one servo post was further forward than the other and that resulted in not being able to get full lock on one side. Chassis mounting the steering solved the issue but I would like to try floating steering one day

9) The kit comes with 2 hole and 1 hole shock pistons. I used 2 holes but will be trying one hole in future to see how it goes

10) The foam bumper has body post holes already punched and the offcut foam still inside the holes. Keep these as they could be used for shock rebound foams and might work well. As no performance enhancing optional accessories are allowed, this is technically included in the kit so using this is fine – just cut it to the desired thickness

11) Shim the driveshaft axles to take out some slop. One corner was particularly bad on my car

Here are a few of pics of the completed car:

nudge2325

iTrader: (13)

Since you are using the Hobbywing motor why not use the Hobbywing Justock speedy they are looking at implementing for the National Junior class.
That way is would be completely controlled everything but the radio.

Just a thought.

poop

iTrader: (27)

Cheers mate. Yes definitely leaning towards the HW Justock but thought we'd kick off the new class first and then take a vote when more people join in

Wheelnuts

iTrader: (9)

Just about finished the build.
Car is done bodyshell cutout and just needs paint and stickers.
Will post pics later today, got to say my wiring (as always ) is messy but it turns on and runs lol.
Had a bit of fun finding the firmware to change the good old Much More (Product Placement Oooh yeah!!!) It's the version 1 but got that sorted thanks to Dom .
Put the floating steering on seems to be even at the mo haven't put it on the setup station yet will do that today to see if it has the same trouble but the build was about the same as Karls similar things to come across just have to be careful when threading the ali collars onto the shock bodies they have a fine thread .
But everyone can chat with us at Meakin next weekend and look over the cars it should be good close racing and lots of fun .
See you all at the track.

heavy

iTrader: (23)

xterray

iTrader: (3)

No minimum numbers required, if there isnt enough of these cars to run a seperate class then they can easily run in with the other stock class, just like when the trucks and f1's run together on a wednesday night as there arent very many trucks running either.

Wheelnuts

iTrader: (9)

Yeah I know I've been working in NQ for the last 5 months and not a lot of visiting home.
But we think this class will be what racers are looking for
Low budget racing with the right controls on electrics and chassis/body.

poop

iTrader: (27)

Yup, that's exactly what we planned for in the early stages - run together with the usual stock class

poop

iTrader: (27)

I will definitely try to be there for every meet. Paul and I are very motivated to see this class up and running! We figured that even if no one joins us, we'd still have a ball racing each other with identical cars like we did at the Qld titles in trucks

xterray

iTrader: (3)

No problem at all with that karl, hope to see some numbers in a decent looking spec class.

OHBRAD

iTrader: (19)

Guys .. sounds good .. ill watch with interest.

​​​​​​​B1

heavy

iTrader: (23)

poop

iTrader: (27)

We're yet to decide on FDR but will surely stick with 48p because that's what Paul and I use. We've both installed a 75T 48P spur as that should give us the range we need for this motor. The minimum teeth count of 102 and max teeth 118 that will fit this car, will give us an FDR range of 3.31 to 5.28 and we will be ensuring that everyone runs the same spur and pinion combo so there won't be any variances.

We aim to gear this motor so that it runs with maximum longevity in mind.

ShootHere_

iTrader: (1)

you guys got any costs for this setup? They're not listed at SpeedyRC (AFAICS) and prices seem to vary wildly online...